hey guys i have a 95 4bt the 130hp intercooled version and im putting it in a 95 yj i have a 350 and a gm nv 4500 and np205 dana 60 14bolt 411 gears and 37 inch tires swaping the 4bt in and the cost of the parts to adaped it in is going to prevent me from rebuilding it before i install it so my question is the odometer of the fedex truck i got it from said 288000 miles how much power can i expect this engine to have with all of them miles on it and with my gears and tire size can i expect a good top speed or is it going to be like my old sm456 4speed (nothing against the 4sp)
rebuild 4bt
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there's a really good chance that the engine was part of the repower program and that mileage is on the chassis/body and not the engine (unless they provided documentation to prove me otherwise). most of the repower engines have about 150K or less mileage - that's break-in time on a cummins. i wouldn't worry too much about rebuilding unless there's obvious viewable or audible wear. i'd say before you put it in toss in the 3200 gov spring and check/prevent the KDP from dropping.
with the gears/tire/tranny combo you're looking at hitting 70mph at about 2000 rpms - a tad higher than the "sweet spot" of 1750, but workable. if you had 3.73s it'd be perfect.
if you don't mind me asking - where bouts did you score the engine or truck (if you bought it whole)? i'm in the market and only a little over an hour away from you.
with the gears/tire/tranny combo you're looking at hitting 70mph at about 2000 rpms - a tad higher than the "sweet spot" of 1750, but workable. if you had 3.73s it'd be perfect.
if you don't mind me asking - where bouts did you score the engine or truck (if you bought it whole)? i'm in the market and only a little over an hour away from you.
4bt rebuild
i got the hole truck from a scrap yard/trucking company in providence someone must of used it for a work truck after fedex got rid of it i thought of the repowered program to but the truck was a 95 and the motor was also a 95 so that made me think other wise but the motor mounts did look hommade out of 1/4 inch plate and the break booster looked like it was changed on the fire wall proberly because the no vacum on the diesel im not sure what do you mean about check prevent kdp from dropping and where is the gov spring
i got the hole truck from a scrap yard/trucking company in providence someone must of used it for a work truck after fedex got rid of it i thought of the repowered program to but the truck was a 95 and the motor was also a 95 so that made me think other wise but the motor mounts did look hommade out of 1/4 inch plate and the break booster looked like it was changed on the fire wall proberly because the no vacum on the diesel im not sure what do you mean about check prevent kdp from dropping and where is the gov spring
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4,090 Posts
The first thing to do is sign up a free account with Cummins ,the free account lets you see the parts numbers ,parts list as options for the engine ,and date in engine service.
https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html .
That will tell you where the engine went and when it went into service ect.
1. The first thing after you have some info , do a compression test .
2. The killer ( KDP ) is a alignment pin ,if it comes out of the block it has two places to go 1. straight to bottom of oil pan 2. get's cought it gears and does a whole lot of damage.
3. replace the front and rear seals .
4. do 3200 gov spring if you have the Ve pump ,
5. adavance the timing .
The 1.pics is a KDP, look just left of the bolt head ,2 pics is a KDP tab that I sell to fix.
There are two different style of KDP some have step up boss and some flat
Both KDP tabs will fix both types.
Scott
https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html .
That will tell you where the engine went and when it went into service ect.
1. The first thing after you have some info , do a compression test .
2. The killer ( KDP ) is a alignment pin ,if it comes out of the block it has two places to go 1. straight to bottom of oil pan 2. get's cought it gears and does a whole lot of damage.
3. replace the front and rear seals .
4. do 3200 gov spring if you have the Ve pump ,
5. adavance the timing .
The 1.pics is a KDP, look just left of the bolt head ,2 pics is a KDP tab that I sell to fix.
There are two different style of KDP some have step up boss and some flat
Both KDP tabs will fix both types.
Scott
Attachments
what is done about it falling into the oil pan? i saw the washer in the timing cover. and i do need the front and rear seals and valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket and pick up rear sump, the spring sounds good i think i have the inline pump my injector lines are inline on the pump. and im sure theres more how do you do a comprision test
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4,090 Posts
Steve , If the KDP is in the pan and hasn't trash the front gears ,than your one lucky guy ( go play the lotto ) The pin most of the time is sticking out of the hole and or stick out .
So you already have to tab or washer over the pin ? if so than it has been taken care off ,if not than do so.
Any time the front cover is taken off you need to replace the front seal.The rear seal get's replaced just because the engine is out. The valve covers tend to leak with time or are wet and dust will stick to the leaking oil .It's up to you if you want to replace them or not.
Look at the build up section at the J10 ,I did this conversion and Austin has the P7100 pump , does your look like this?
Scott
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696 Posts
That would be a air to water aftercooler rather than a air/air . aftercoler/intercooler same thing really. Someone on here has rigged theres so the cummins air/water aftercooler had its own rad/pump and therefore got much cooler air this is OK if you don't have room for a intercooler but a front mounted intercooler air/air is peferable if you have the room.
Gaza
intercooler gears
yeah i hope my gears are fine i just put a detriot in the 14 bolt. i hate to take it all apart again. as far as the intercooler goes i have the one off the bread truck and its not going to fit infront of the rad. i have a aluminum rad in the factory spot. i dont want to move it back to fit the intercooler because thats going to move everthing else back. and my drive shaft is already short. i was thinking about sticking an aftercooler some where and run the closed loop water idea. but wasent sure if thats what it was for. or another idea was a custom intercooler in front of the rad. but it would be alot smaller than the stock one.
yeah i hope my gears are fine i just put a detriot in the 14 bolt. i hate to take it all apart again. as far as the intercooler goes i have the one off the bread truck and its not going to fit infront of the rad. i have a aluminum rad in the factory spot. i dont want to move it back to fit the intercooler because thats going to move everthing else back. and my drive shaft is already short. i was thinking about sticking an aftercooler some where and run the closed loop water idea. but wasent sure if thats what it was for. or another idea was a custom intercooler in front of the rad. but it would be alot smaller than the stock one.
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696 Posts
They are called GSK governor spring kit and they come in 2 flavours 3k & 4k if you choose 4k then you need to put in 60lb valve springs aswell, they cost alot more though about $120 . 4BT do not have glow plugs. some 6bt and all dodge 6bts come with a intake heater that heats the air going into the engine but its only needed if its quite cold.
Gaza
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