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Discussion Starter #1
  • I'm rebuilding a 2005 common rail for my 2006 F250. I am putting it back together and am replacing the oil pump, water pump, T-stat but am not sure what else needs to replaced. Oil cooler, injector feeder tubes, wiring harness/gasket, piston cooling nozzles and so on. This motor suffered from broken rings on #6 as a combination of a Jake brake and injested water. I was told these blocks couldn't be sleeved. My machinist seemed to disagree.
  • Aside from a little water/ moisture in the oil pan and a few spots of corrosion the cylinders were a little glazed except for the gauged up on...
  • I'm .20 over and going with a Mahle kit, pistons, gaskets, Reworked head, I will have the injectors and pump checked.
  • Real-world input appreciated.. thanks.
 

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Sounds like you covered the main replacement items. Oil cooler probably doesn't need replacing, just make sure it's cleaned out. Should it prove to be bad a replacement probably isn't all that expensive. Pistons cooling nozzles often come in rebuild kits and not a bad idea to replace those. Injector feed tubes is sort of your call. I believe I have a new set of those laying around if interested. Might have the injectors tested to be sure they don't need rebuilding or replacing. Don't know about the wiring harness. Some of that tends to be quite expensive. Bearings, gaskets, and seals are pretty much a given in a rebuild. New freeze plugs in the block would be advisable and be sure they don't leave out the one in the lifter gallery. Without that one you get no oil pressure. Those parts will most likely come from Cummins as they are not a universal size. Might check the fan hub bearing to be sure it doesn't have any play. Was the cam and tappets removed during the rebuild? If the tappets weren't labeled as to which hole they were from you'll need new ones or have those reground. Rod bolts are normally replaced and not reused. Of course, head bolts get replaced or you might consider studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cam was reground and I have new aftermarket lifters. I will see what all was provided with the Mahle kit the machinist provided. His price on the kit and the cam regrind was as cheap as I could find online.
The machinist told me not to replace the freeze plugs that were the stainless ones. I was tempted not to touch any of them.
I will replace all the seals and gaskets.
Any input on OEM vs. aftermarket oil pump and water pump ? Gates looks like a quality water pump but I think I will stick with OEM on the oil pump..
Char, let me know what you want for the feed tubes & if they are OEM. I saw some e-bay Cummins but for $60 for 6 I am guessing they are counterfeit.. Crazy..
Any experience with Agkits? They seem to have good prices but I question the quality..
 

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I just checked and the delivery tubes I have are for a 24 valve, not the common rail. Your's are a totally different animal. That price of $60 sounds about right for the genuine article. Those are made by Bosch but come in a Cummins box. Might even find them cheaper. On the water pumps, they may not all be the same. Yes, there are tons of them out there in the aftermarket, but when you compare to an OEM Cummins some don't stack up. The metal on the impeller of the OEM seems to be made of a heavier gauge material instead of a thin stamped piece of tin. Here's a photo of part 5473238 and you can clearly see how heavy the piece is. That unit is near $200 vs maybe $60-70 for an aftermarket. Oil pumps are just as numerous. I believe the actual pump for your engine is made by Melling as part # M451. Here's a photo of one and notice it has the Cummins part 4988801 cast into the frame. Price $86.42 on ebay. Here's a link. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MELLING-M451-M-451-Oil-Pump-fits-2004-2018-Dodge-Ram-5-9L-6-7L-Cummins-Diesel/254242149349?epid=12031251940&hash=item3b320353e5:g:Pt4AAOSwPRldQvQc
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It seems like a lot of stuff folks replace are not one time use items. Connecting for bolt, main bolts and head bolts all have a factory specification for use or replace. The oil cooler has a test proceedure for determine usable or replacement. I am replacing the oil pump and coolant pump. Piston coolings nozzles are in good shape, and the plugs in the block look fine. I am replacing the oil gallery plugs. I couldn't leave them in and hope that there was no gunk or metal shavings or grit left from the machinist. I wasn't impressed with the machinist's hygiene practices. I don't want to throw away good parts and waste money but if something is questionable It's worth it now to replace it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My custom polishing job.. All the bearings plasti-gaged at .002-.003. only the front main was a solid .003. Max is .0059
 

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  • Looks like you're coming right along. You had mentioned having the injectors checked. Good Idea. The ones for that engine tend to be kind of pricey since they are electronic. Since you're rebuilding completely, I'd go for head studs instead of the bolts. Not horribly expensive and they seem to give better torque pressure than the OEM bolts. Another item to pay attention to is the lift pump. Those sometimes have a bad reputation. There are several good aftermarket pumps out there and none are very cheap. There are upgrades for the high pressure pump depending on where your power level heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Block has been resleeved and bored 20 over. I am not going with studs as I am comfortable with stock power and didn't have a shop locally that could torque plate. I wouldnt do studs as it changes the shape of the cylinder. There are some great videos that demonstrate this. I wish I had taken my block to Southworth in Eugene. I am near Medford, Oregon. A local diesel performance shop said they wouldn't use any one local for block work. They'd either go to Redding, CA or Eugene.. I used a local one man shop and I think he did OK.
 

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I'm going to say .. Instead of a broken ring . Your motor has what we called dirty fuel Syndrome when I worked for Dodge . SO I'd say start over & do plenty of research of Dirty Fuel repairs .
I was a service advisor not a tech . But I'll say you need all the injectors.. Tubes .. injector lines.. I'd pretty much say let the machinist rebuild it .. So you'll have some warranty on it. ..I'M Going out on a limb & say I'll bet it can be sleeved . But you'll need to steam clean the fuel tank & Add a new FASS Fuel Filter system .
.. Sorry from 2005 up to about 2010. Those motors really gave problems .
We totalled out about 15 or 20 trucks because most were just too expensive to fix. Most were a 20 too $23500.oo dollar repair...
I'll say clean the fuel system & find a different motor that you know is good . But I believe about 75% of these truck had these problems . Since I've left I have not been able to get them to tell me how their fixing them now.
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.... I'm going to say all the truck 2005 up .. AKA THE QUITE DIESELS have these issues .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Dang, that's discouraging, but I appreciate your honesty. I probably should have just dropped a 12 valve in, eh? I have two first gen 2wd trucks, I don't have as much into each truck as I have into the motor and tranny. A warranty from a machinist is fickle for me as I am swapping into a Ford. I plan on putting a filter system on. I am open to suggestions. When you say dirty do you mean not tuned or a system completely contaminated? I noticed a lot of carbon build up on the pistons. Most of the 3rs gen owners I have talked to had issues with the tranny but not the motor- except the expensive injector repairs..
I went back and forth on 12 valve vs. a 24V CR..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any suggestions on push rods for a stock HP motor. The manual states to replace the PRs with new tappets which I bought to go with the reground cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
It's pretty tight so far, .003 on the rod bearings. I dropped one bearing and managed to ding it in 3 spots so lucky me, Cummins had some in stock...The Clevite bearings I've uses looked just as good but have. Different finishes top to bottom vs. the OEM. I will make sure my fueling is correct so these stay nice and shiny... Well, maybe not as coked up..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's pretty tight so far, .003 on the connecting rods and .002 on the mains. I dropped one bearing and managed to ding it in 3 spots so lucky me, Cummins had some in stock...The Clevite bearings I've uses looked just as good but have. Different finishes top to bottom vs. the OEM. I will make sure my fueling is correct so these stay nice and shiny...right..
 

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Dirty I mean water in fuel tank . & Dust & dirt grim in the fuel tank .
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... Here a crazy one .. get yourself a new white paper towel . Grab your fuel cap.. grasp the paper towel around the threads of the cap... Twist the cap against the paper towels while hold the towel hard against the threads .
Now look at the white paper towel .. I now has Black or dark gray marks on the paper towel doesn't it .
AKA WARRANITY VOIDED !!!..
THEY had 11 check locations like that test.
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.... Another one was .. Let truck set for 30 minutes . Then slowly pull the cap off the fuel filter slowly . Remove cap & remove the filter slowly & Drop it into a large glass container . Like a deep 8 inch glass pop .Now take a rag & hold the filter with rag around the top of filter . & Place air blower nozzle into top of filter . Push a burst of air into filter. & blow the trash out of filter & into the glass pop . It's nasty .. Warranty VOIDED . ..
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Next look inside the filter housing what's in the bottom of housing .. Anything but fuel warranty voided .
... WE HAD ABOUT 6 GLASS QUART JARS OF DIRTY FUEL SETTING AT MY SERVICE DESK that I could Show customers .. Glasses showed color of different dirty fuel from filling stations.
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.. TAKE THE FUEL LINES off the injectors & push contents ONTO WHITE PAPER TOWELL . any Trash voids warranty.
..Those were some of the ones I remember .
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..... OH for the rest of you ..05..09.. owners ..Open your door & watch .. Look at the outside edge of your door.
Do this before you expect trouble . Watch the edge of the door at about the door handle area .
It will be rather smooth no shake . Now when you expect trouble .. That door will be shaking like all hell.
When I wrote the trucks up for service I opened everyone door & WATCHED for shakes .
 

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Discussion Starter #17
  1. Hmmmmm, sad. I had a friend who filtered hi fuel in Sierra Leone. Maybe I should pick up a tank so I can fill up at home or put in a transfer tank with a filter on the pump. That's good info to know. I would like to think dirty/wet fuel is the exception but obviously not.
 

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Clean fuel is always a must with a diesel. Industrial or larger engines often have multiple filters. The dirty fuel issue probably reared its head worse with the high pressure common rail engines. Some of the problem could also be when we changed over to ULSD fuel, That may have scrubbed some accumulated dirt off the inside of old underground fuel tanks.
 
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