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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This was another of my pet projects from a few years ago that I thought may be of some help. As we all know, the area on the passenger's side of a 4bt can get crowded very quick. Often the oil filter and other parts, usually a turbo, are trying to share the same space. This happens especially if twin turbos are in the picture or trying to move the stock turbo forward for exhaust pipe clearance. The simple solution is move the oil filter to a remote location, but which setup do you use. There are lots of them out there in all kind of price ranges from as little as just over $100 to many $hundreds. Some are a bit cheap looking and when you're dealing with the engines oil supply I think that's not a place to cut corners. Parts wise, most are similar consisting of an adapter that replaces the stock oil filter, a remote filter mount, and some hoses. Those work OK, but sometimes that spot where the filter was isn't where you want any protrusion. That leaves 2 that I know of that replace the oil filter mounting plate. One from Destroked and the other from Cummins. I decided I liked the Cummins . Actually the Destroked unit is almost identical. At the time I began this project, the base part from Cummins was horribly expensive. $370.31 for the plate by itself which was near the price of the complete Destroked kit. But the folks in China quickly lowered the bar. Current best price is $71.20. I support USA as much as possible, but 5 times the price is a bit much. So the project began.

Phase One - The Remote Plate

I ordered one of the Chinese remote oil filter plates. I found the casting and machining quality to be first rate. See photos #1 and #2. However, when you get one of these it is bare and there are more pieces to complete the assembly. First you need the oil pressure regulator assembly shown in photo #3. This consists of a plunger, spring, threaded cap, and O ring. You could use the cap from your old filter mount, but the plunger and spring are different. Those parts come either from Cummins or Case tractors. I chose Case since they were cheaper by $3. Those parts came in a Cummins bag with a Case sticker stuck on it. Next you need an oil fitting assembly for the turbo oil hose shown it photo #4. This consists of the fitting, O ring, and a conical copper washer. This is the same fitting found on the turbo itself. If you are getting some oil weeping at either of those fittings, might check to be sure that little washer is in place. It could easily be lost and causing some seepage. Expensive little devil from Cummins but I found a source I'll share that was a box full for the price of one from Cummins. Now that hole is plugged we move to the big ones. The large oil ports are threaded 10AN O ring. You can decide what size hose you wish to use. I chose 12AN because that's what Cummins uses. So I added 2 fittings 10AN O ring to 12AN 37 deg from Aeroquip to the pile. Then you need attaching bolts. You could reuse the old bolts from the oil filter mount except for one which is 10mm longer. Actually there are 2 at the top right corner that can be 5mm shorter so I decided to be different and have 3 lengths. And since this had ceased to be a low budget project I got some nice ARP polished stainless flange head bolts to give it a little bling. See photo #5. The last piece of this part of the puzzle would be new gaskets for the oil cooler and plate in photo #6. One part done and on to the next phase. Here the part's list for this phase with Cummins part #'s and (Case #'s) where available.

3284170 Remote Oil Filter Plate
3918428 (J918428) Oil Pressure Regulator Plunger
3918427 (J918427) Spring
3915787 (J915787) Plug
3909397 (75285739) O ring
3919687 (J919687) Turbo Oil Fitting with O ring
3924389 Copper Sealing Washer (Parker 2GF-6 pack of 10 #5WRW3)
3900632 (86624966) M8 X 1.25 x 35mm Flange Head Bolt 13 req (11 optional)
3901445 M8 x 1.25 x 45mm Flange Head Bolt 1 req
3902114 M8 x 1.25 x 30mm Flange Head Bolt 2 optional
FCM2954 Aeroquip 10AN O ring to 12AN 37 deg Male/Male Coupler (Blue) 2 req
4932124 (J942914) Oil Cooler to Block Gasket (Case has a # error but that's what it is)
3929792 (J929792) Oil Cooler to Oil Plate Gasket
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Oil Filter Mount and Hoses

Phase Two A

This phase will be in two parts. Part A will be a single filter setup and Part B will be a dual setup with a bypass filter. So here's Part A. You can use any aftermarket single filter head that you desire. They aren't very expensive. I chose to use the one from Cummins which comes with a bypass valve in the event of a clogged filter. Not sure that should ever come into use if we change our oil and filters properly. That head has 2 mounting holes on top. The oil ports on this part are threaded 12AN O ring so I got 2 Aeroquip 12AN O ring to 12AN 37 deg fittings. Now for an oil filter. You may use any number of brands. I chose the Fleetguard LF16035 which is their premium model for the 6bt. If you shop around these can be found in the same price range as other brands. Photo #1 shows all the parts for this assembly. Photo #2 shows a collection of fittings and hose. I had Aeroquip fittings in straight, 45 deg, and 90 deg along with the 12AN hose. That won't be assembled until the final location is decided. That hose is something you don't want to cut wrong. A bit pricey. LOL. So here's the parts list for this.

3282285 Oil Filter Head (Fleetguard # HH6983)
LF16035 Oil Filter
FCM2955 Aeroquip 12AN O Ring to 12AN 37 deg Male/Male Fitting (Blue) 2 req

FCM1015 Aeroquip 12AN Straight Swivel Hose Ends (Red & Blue)
FCM4025 Aeroquip 12AN 45 deg Swivel Hose Ends (Red & Blue)
FCM4035 Aeroquip 12AN 90 deg Swivel Hose Ends (Red & Blue)
FCA1206 Aeroquip 12AN Stainless Hose 6ft (Actual length of this one is 74")
 

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Very nice write up and parts list, is this all a continuation of your last remote plate thread from 4 years ago haha? What filter head did you go with to round out your system?

Guess my timing is pretty good on that ask haha (joking here, I was writing this while you were writing the second part)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Dual Oil Filter Setup With Bypass Filter

Phase Two B

Now for the big part of this puzzle. Clean oil is the goal of every filter system and the cleaner the better with a diesel. Bypass oil filters have been around a long time and Amsoil has probably made them more famous than anyone. However, most don't realize that Cummins has used them for years, mostly on the larger engines. They make filters specifically designed as bypass models and recently have added units that have a regular and bypass in the same canister. Those tend to be a bit expensive at around $50 for one that would fit our B series engines. And it's very long so space might come into play. After doing a good bit of looking, I settled on the Fleetguard LF777 bypass unit. That one has been around a long time, readily available, and reasonably cheap. So I began the system. First I picked up an aftermarket dual filter head shown in photo #1. There are plenty of these out there and believe it or not it says "Made in USA". These units have 3/4" x 16 thread filter ports and mine came with a 1" x 16 adapter which fits the standard Cummins filter. However, the LF777 isn't 1" x 16 but 1-3/8" x 16. It's a large monster and I found most all those bypass filters used that size fitting. To complicated even more the OD is so large that the sealing gasket would be outside the spot on the head unit. This called for a bit of engineering. I had carefully measured the head to make sure there was adequate room for this big guy. There was so I designed up a mount. Took a piece of 5" 6061 round stock 1" thick and a machinist friend of mine turned it into what you see in photos #2, #3 and #4. Now I had the base plate I needed the pipe. Started with a blank of 1-1/2" hex stock shown in photo #5 and my friend made it into the part in photo #6. He only had to set up once for threading because both ends are 16 threads. The center hole in the base plate is threaded so the nipple screws into it and the whole assembly screws to the head unit. I wanted that hex area to help tighten it all and it doesn't interfere with the filter because it fits in a recess in the base plate. The completed head assembly in photo #7. I said completed but something started to worry me. I wasn't sure just how strong that cast aluminum head unit was, especially with 2 filters and a gallon of oil hanging on it. So I designed up a support brace for a little more security. Took a piece of 4x4x1/4" angle iron, cut off about half of one leg to make it 2x4. If you work with angle iron you know the inside corner is rounded, not square. So my friend milled it square. Then we took a hole saw and made 2 cutouts to clear the filter mounts and bored a few holes. I actually bore he holes 1/4" and enlarged the ones in the filter head to that size. They were originally 3/16". This part is in photo #8. To my surprise, it didn't fit. The cast aluminum filter head wasn't square. So off to the milling machine and gave it a shave and now it fits just fine as you see on photo #9. There will be more grade 8 bolts but I just stuck a few in for the photo. The last photo shows the whole setup and as you can see that LF777 is no small thing. Added 2 more Aeroquip 1/2"NPT to AN12 37 deg fitting for the head unit. One note. Where the large filter adapter touches the head unit will get a thin film of RTV to act as a gasket. The machining is very precise and it might not leak without it, but no use to take chances. Another project complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Very nice write up and parts list, is this all a continuation of your last remote plate thread from 4 years ago haha? What filter head did you go with to round out your system?

Guess my timing is pretty good on that ask haha
Phase Two A and Two B show the two optional filter heads. A special note on connecting this system. There has been some question and confusion as to how the hoses are supposed to connect to the block plate and filter head. Each port is labeled "IN" and "OUT" on all parts. The correct connection is IN to OUT and OUT to IN. Make sense but even the Cummins guys were a bit confused on that.
 

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The only part that I would be worried about is the lack of a bypass valve.
What happens when you start a sub freezing engine and try to push cold 80psi oil through the paper element of the filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Those Fleetguard LF16035 filters are rated for a working pressure of 125 psi. They'll probably handle peaks even higher. If it gets higher than that we've got other problems.
 

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Yep those markings are confusing, just look at it this way, use the filter as the reference point and the IN marking goes "into" the filter and the out is from the filter.
Double check is the turbo feed port is joined to the OUT port, that is clean oil.
Cheers Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, that's how I discovered the error in what Cummins had initially told me. We know the oil coming out of the filter is the cleaned oil and I found the turbo port was shared with the IN port of the adapter plate on the block. So the OUT to IN has to be the correct sequence of oil flow.
 

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Char, don't you mean the OUT port is shared with the turbo port
Cheers Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No Steve, the turbo oil feed is shared with the IN port on the block adapter plate. That is the cleaned oil returning from the OUT port on the oil filter housing. The OUT port on the block adapter plate is the dirty oil going to the IN port of the oil filter housing.
 

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Char,
Read your post a couple up, there you have it the other way round.
Would have to go double check mine but certain the IN on the adaptor is actually oil out from the engine going "INTO" the filter.

OK double checked your pic's and you are correct, that housing IN is into the engine,
Weird will definitely go have a look at mine now.
Wonder why there has been confusion before?

OK,OK
Had a look at mine and it is the same as yours. OUT is out from the engine and IN is back into the engine. Should not be any confusion.
Char's right and I am just all mixed up.


Cheers Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Khaos hooked his up the way you were thinking and it destroyed the filter and the engine. Big mess. That's the reason I made sure and mention the correct connections. Just have to think of it as a continuous flow of OUT to IN.
 

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Khaos hooked his up the way you were thinking and it destroyed the filter and the engine. Big mess. That's the reason I made sure and mention the correct connections. Just have to think of it as a continuous flow of OUT to IN.
This ^^^
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That might be a long time if ever. Member Steed has the single filter version on his first install. I've been playing with these projects for years. Got another one that is far more complex that I need to photograph and write up. That one is a gear driven Ford power steering pump for the 4bt/6bt.
 

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Oh cool. I remember reading through his build up a couple years ago. I'll go check it out. I really like/appreciate well written tech threads like this. So the reason I am interested in pictures is I would like to see the space saving comparison from a more "common" style filter adapter and that Chinese housing. I'm impressed and thankful for all your leg work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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