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Hi, my name is Robert, I am the proud owner of a 4x2 1994 Ford F-150 and I plan to turn the beauty into a supercharged diesel power house! I am trying to get a very rough estimate on how much this is going to cost me. I've got all stock pieces as it is, which I plan to replace as to handle the torque being produced by said supercharged diesel engine and any future modifications I may make. I was thinking a 12 valve is perfect for my truck but to be honest I don't know much in the way of conversions nor what engines come with a supercharger from factory and I was hoping to get a little help! Thanks in advance and I'm excited to join this community.
 

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Robert, hang out here for a while and you will learn a lot. Most diesels are pretty gutless w/o forced induction, so most have some kind. Few have super chargers, except DD. Most modern diesels are turbocharged with air to air intercoolers which are compact and the I'cooler can fit in front of water radiator.

Ed in CO.
 

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Robert, hang out here for a while and you will learn a lot. Most diesels are pretty gutless w/o forced induction, so most have some kind. Few have super chargers, except DD. Most modern diesels are turbocharged with air to air intercoolers which are compact and the I'cooler can fit in front of water radiator.

Ed in CO.
With that being said do you have a recommendation as to which engine I should go with then? Or what modifications are necessary to handle the power the engine would be outputting? I am going to put in new axels and a new drive train and just about new everything eventually but what might I need to do straight away before my truck can take the new engine?
 

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Robert,

First, welcome to 4btswaps.

Can I suggest that you do a bunch of reading on this site. There is lots of planning involved for a successful diesel swap, I spent several months researching.

It took me many months to install and de-bug the diesel drive train - See the build thread in my signature below - I am retired and had a couple of gas engine swaps under my belt. My 1986 F-150 is mechanically similar to your 1994. Some off-the-top-of-my-head notes:

1. Gentile reminder - The modern diesel engines are turbocharged, not supercharged

2. The F-150 is somewhat light duty for a stock 6 cylinder diesel, definitely too light for a diesel power house - would need to move up to a 3/4 ton or 1 ton chassis.

3. Will it pass a smog emission test and can it be legally registered (depends on your location - no smog emission tests here). EPA regulations state that a swapped-in engine must be the same year of newer that the vehicle build date (gas or diesel - same rule). The EPA sticker on the diesel engine might specify a minimum vehicle weight that is heavier than the F150 data plate weight.

4. Computerized engine and transmission or not computerized transmission?

5. Lots more, Make a list and keep thinking. Cheapest way is to buy a running truck...

Russ
 

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Robert,

First, welcome to 4btswaps.

Can I suggest that you do a bunch of reading on this site. There is lots of planning involved for a successful diesel swap, I spent several months researching.

It took me many months to install and de-bug the diesel drive train - See the build thread in my signature below - I am retired and had a couple of gas engine swaps under my belt. My 1986 F-150 is mechanically similar to your 1994. Some off-the-top-of-my-head notes:

1. Gentile reminder - The modern diesel engines are turbocharged, not supercharged

2. The F-150 is somewhat light duty for a stock 6 cylinder diesel, definitely too light for a diesel power house - would need to move up to a 3/4 ton or 1 ton chassis.

3. Will it pass a smog emission test and can it be legally registered (depends on your location - no smog emission tests here). EPA regulations state that a swapped-in engine must be the same year of newer that the vehicle build date (gas or diesel - same rule). The EPA sticker on the diesel engine might specify a minimum vehicle weight that is heavier than the F150 data plate weight.

4. Computerized engine and transmission or not computerized transmission?

5. Lots more, Make a list and keep thinking. Cheapest way is to buy a running truck...

Russ
And that's EXACTLY why I'm here, like I said in my original post I dont know much so I'm doing my best to research and make everything go smoothly and as far as some of the threads I've read this is and extremely informative site that I will be spending A LOT of time on. And just a quick btw the truck runs great as it is and doesn't need any replacement parts any time soon this is a plan I have for the coming years so rest assured I won't make any rushed or rash decisions. 😁
 

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Robert,

Start with a list of goals, i.e. what will I use the truck for:

Off-Road competition vs Mall Crawler
Heavy hauling on the farm vs occasional Home Depot run
Long interstate trips vs short commute
Lifted vs low rider
Show truck vs beater (Bought my F150 cheap, the primer was peeling off - 10 years later it looks uglier - but has taken me to 37 states...)
One of the factors in my design is that the truck needed to meet the UHaul criteria for being loaded on a UHaul auto transport trailer. I intended to do some cross country trips, and needed a plan for a major failure. A few years ago, I was 300+ miles from home, intending to rent a UHaul box trailer and move my grandson back from college. Late Friday afternoon, discovered that the U-joint lost all the roller bearings. Both my daughter and grandson had jobs to report to on
Monday. Rented a UHaul box truck and auto trailer and came home.
etc.

If your F150 is not a good platform, you have time to look for a better platform. Even the simplest builds seem to take months, you will need a daily driver.

In the rust belt, you might find a totally rusted out truck with good engine, transmission and drive line - Or maybe a wrecked truck at the salvage auction (your nearest Copart Copart USA - Online Live Vehicle Auctions - Bid & Win).

And tell all your gearhead friends about your dream. Friends found me a running ex-Hostess Grumman bread van (4bt / 4speed) for $800 - drove it 320 miles home (deal of a lifetime). I drove this truck for a year to work the bugs out of it (had an intermittent wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid - Took a while to figure that out...).

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Robert,

Start with a list of goals, i.e. what will I use the truck for:

Off-Road competition vs Mall Crawler
Heavy hauling on the farm vs occasional Home Depot run
Long interstate trips vs short commute
Lifted vs low rider
Show truck vs beater (Bought my F150 cheap, the primer was peeling off - 10 years later it looks uglier - but has taken me to 37 states...)
One of the factors in my design is that the truck needed to meet the UHaul criteria for being loaded on a UHaul auto transport trailer. I intended to do some cross country trips, and needed a plan for a major failure. A few years ago, I was 300+ miles from home, intending to rent a UHaul box trailer and move my grandson back from college. Late Friday afternoon, discovered that the U-joint lost all the roller bearings. Both my daughter and grandson had jobs to report to on
Monday. Rented a UHaul box truck and auto trailer and came home.
etc.

If your F150 is not a good platform, you have time to look for a better platform. Even the simplest builds seem to take months, you will need a daily driver.

In the rust belt, you might find a totally rusted out truck with good engine, transmission and drive line - Or maybe a wrecked truck at the salvage auction (your nearest Copart Copart USA - Online Live Vehicle Auctions - Bid & Win).

And tell all your gearhead friends about your dream. Friends found me a running ex-Hostess Grumman bread van (4bt / 4speed) for $800 - drove it 320 miles home (deal of a lifetime). I drove this truck for a year to work the bugs out of it (had an intermittent wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid - Took a while to figure that out...).

Russ
Dude that's a crazy story! As far as my goals with the truck I'm hoping to keep it for the rest of my natural life lol, she's gonna take me across the states that's for sure but she'll also be for my daily driving. My initial plan was to raise it maybe an inch and a half or even just to slap on a leveling kit just to replace my current springs cause as my truck is a very old one the front end is sagging a bit. Also that bread van? Definitely an absolutely smashed deal that's crazy cool. I really do have a mechanically sound vehicle, she's got a bit of rust to her and she squeaks a little but she runs like an absolute top!
 

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Russ has given you great advice. Your 1994 F150 is a full sized truck so that is on the plus side as far as making things fit. If you go for a 12 valve 6bt, you'll need to do some suspension work. That engine weighs 1100 lbs which is a lot more that any factory engine used in that chassis. You didn't mention what transmission you have or prefer. You'll probably end up replacing the entire drive train. If you could locate a F250 chassis and swap your body onto it that might be a better route or you could install F250 front and rear axles on your existing frame. Main thing is sitting down and planning. There will tons of little things to work out like gauges, fuel tanks, ac system, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks much appreciated sir or madame. Also, my apologies for not answering your question I have an automatic transmission and would rather keep it that way haha.
 

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Dex------You've been given good advize by some old timers like Ed and Russ, and Char ! Be prepared for a long out of service, as my swap took me 4 years for 1st time, then 6 months when I upgraded engines to a turbo engine . If I was considering an F-150 swap, I'd use a 4 BT , which will exceed whatever your present engine might be , and be more compliant with existing components .
 

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You mentioned an automatic transmission. It probably won't be the one in the truck now depending on what you have. There are several options. One would be a unit from a Dodge Cummins. The 46RH or 47RH are popular because they aren't computer controlled. The 47RH is liked because it has a lockup torque converter and will give better fuel mileage. The 47RE which is similar to the 47RH only it is computer controlled, but it can be used as well. If you wanted to stay with a Ford unit, the E4OD might be possible but a better one would be the 4R100. Both of those are computer controlled. Could even do an Allison, but that would probably require some body work due to its size. The vast majority of swaps you read about on the forum are manual transmission. Less complex, mostly less expensive to adapt, and generally will give better fuel mileage than the automatics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You mentioned an automatic transmission. It probably won't be the one in the truck now depending on what you have. There are several options. One would be a unit from a Dodge Cummins. The 46RH or 47RH are popular because they aren't computer controlled. The 47RH is liked because it has a lockup torque converter and will give better fuel mileage. The 47RE which is similar to the 47RH only it is computer controlled, but it can be used as well. If you wanted to stay with a Ford unit, the E4OD might be possible but a better one would be the 4R100. Both of those are computer controlled. Could even do an Allison, but that would probably require some body work due to its size. The vast majority of swaps you read about on the forum are manual transmission. Less complex, mostly less expensive to adapt, and generally will give better fuel mileage than the automatics.
Huh I had no idea that's how it worked, sort of thought one conversion was gonna be the same as another didn't figure it'd be tougher to do one or the other, thanks for the info and recommendations!
 
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