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I'm re-doing my mounts because I changed from the TH400 over to a 47RH trans, and that swaps the starter to the other side, which interferes with the left mount. The Dodge frame has holes in 2 spots for the oem style Dodge motor mount, and I'm considering using them. The gas and Cummins mounts appear identical, but the Cummins mount is $10 more, so I emailed Anchor about it. Here's the reply;
I received your inquiry this afternoon and the rubber durometer of our 2469
is 60, which is typically a bit harder than most mounts run. More often you
will see 50 as the duro on a typical mount.

John Leonard


Anchor Industries
30775 Solon Industrial Pkwy.
Solon, Oh 44139
440-473-1414 x 439
http://www.anchor-online.com/
http://www.showmetheparts.com/anchor/


-----Original Message-----
From: ***********
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 12:48 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Cummins motor mount info.

Hi. I have installed a Cummins 4bta into a 1981 Dodge Ram 2wd automatic p/u,
mainly for fuel mileage. I am currently using the oem slant6 mounts but need
to upgrade and I am researching which motor mounts to use. The Dodge frame
has mounting holes for the Cummins 2710 style mount. The Cummins 4 cylinder
motor is known for it's vibration, so I am considering using the V-8 mount
2469 instead, assuming that the rubber is a bit softer to absorb vibration
better.
Your advice please. Thank you
 

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... The gas and Cummins mounts appear identical, but the Cummins mount is $10 more...
And bigger in all dimensions, see picture. I ripped the rubber on a Dodge gas Anchor brand motor mount, part # 2469. I replaced them with Dodge diesel motor mounts, different brand (bought what was in stock). No problems in over 10,000 miles. Details are buried somewhere in my build thread.

Engine mounts.JPG
 

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Some of the motor mounts in this thread give a whole new meaning to the term "wretched excess" :)

My mounts are minimalist in the extreme:









Bushings are urethane spring bushings. This would be unacceptable on a 4BT, but there is very little vibration with the 6. The sleeve around the bushing is 2" .250" wall DOM. The plates mounted to the engine are 1/4" cold rolled steel. The tube between the sleeve and the plate on the engine is 1.75" .120" wall 4130. A wedge of the tube is used as a gusset to spread the load on the plate. Everything is TIG welded. The mount design was dictated by the passenger side, where the drain for the low mount turbo needed to clear the motor mount. It barely does clear, as you can see in the first two pics.
 

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Finished! Not pretty, but they'll do. Have not started motor yet, so I don't know about vib dampening. Working on trans mount.

P1020977.jpg P1020978.jpg
 

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Since one of mentioned your putting a 4BT INTO A early Bronco .. Mine is a 1972 .. Your's are kind of close to what I built and I too use a 91 Dodge truck mount.
.. Now a few weeks ago I was down in the hill country and BC'S Broncos .com had a set he is building and selling he also has the trans cross members .
 

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Engine mounts

Can anyone advise where to get suitable engine mounts from the uk? I'm currently on with a project but not sure where to source them from ? Thanks.
 

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So I'm working on some mounts for my 07 expedition. It would seem if I could put the engine on a slight angle I.e. front to back with the back being lower, this would help with clearance issues. It seems like the trans tunnel has some taper to it which is causing the m5r2 to not have the clearance it needs to be comfortable. If I can put it at slight, like drop the rear of motor down 1-1.5" this would help things out. Its hard to tell flipping through these pics so I thought I'd ask. Thanks
 

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So I'm working on some mounts for my 07 expedition. It would seem if I could put the engine on a slight angle I.e. front to back with the back being lower, this would help with clearance issues. It seems like the trans tunnel has some taper to it which is causing the m5r2 to not have the clearance it needs to be comfortable. If I can put it at slight, like drop the rear of motor down 1-1.5" this would help things out. Its hard to tell flipping through these pics so I thought I'd ask. Thanks
Your engine is supposed to be at or near the same angle as your pinion shaft on the rear end. I got my shaft angle with the drive shaft removed then used magnetic angle gauges from Harbor Freight to get the angle then set the engine at the same angle. This is my build thread, http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?27534-4bt-transplant-into-93-F150 , and the first set of pictures shows the angle gauges if you want to see what they look like. I used an M5R2 also.
 

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So anybody have any negative results with the anchor 2548 hydraulic mount. I know one guy on here seemed to really like them. Just looking for any other input. Thanks.
 

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So anybody have any negative results with the anchor 2548 hydraulic mount. I know one guy on here seemed to really like them. Just looking for any other input. Thanks.
As with most if not all hydraulic isolators they have no sheer strength. Other than that they have better vibration dampening that other types.
 

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Here is the ones I built
 

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Many thanks to all the contributors here. I finally have my engine & tranny mounted into my little 1946 Chevy school bus. It was a tight fit, but it is now bolted down.


Sets back a couple of feet from the original to squeeze into this narrow frame.


Could almost qualify as a "Mid-Engine" rig. A new firewall and doghouse are on the way.


Frame side mounts are fabbed from 1/4' plate (same as the engine side).


Started off with some custom 4BT engine side mounts made for Jeeps and modified them for my use.


Once the engine was located, we built simple mounts for the Allison 2200MH.

Still tons to do, but my thanks to the folks here for sharing their expertise & experience.

Many more pix in my Flickr album...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tango88/with/15983298783/
 

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Frame side mounts are fabbed from 1/4' plate (same as the engine side).


Started off with some custom 4BT engine side mounts made for Jeeps and modified them for my use.

On my stock motor mounts the holes are vertical. What difference is there in mounting mounting them sideways like this?
 

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Howdy Sam --- If you have studied this thread, you will see that there are a wide range of theories and mounting possibilities. My engine came from a P30 and had flat/horizontal fluid mounts like you describe but after studying the the different options here, I decided to go with 45 degree solid mounts because they appear to limit side to side motion a little better than flat or fluid mounts. This arrangement will also very likely transmit a little more vibration while running but given how tight this installation is, I opted to live with that in favor of bashing everything around the motor on startup & shutdown. There is good reason they call these 4BT's "Paintshakers".

Best bet is to study this entire thread and then develop a plan that best fits your particular situation and needs. The only "right way" is the one that works best for you. Hope some of this makes sense.

PS...one constant seems to be that positioning the mounting points above the centerline of the crank helps limit vibration, regardless of the angle or type of dampener.
 

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I've read through the entire thread at least 4 times. It's great to see all the cool ideas. I guess my wording was incorrect. When mounted at a 45 degree angle ... As yours and mine are, your locator tabs are horizontal instead of vertical? Was that done for a specific reason?
 

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Not entirely sure what you mean by "locator tabs". I just went with what the Anchor diagram showed. In this case, the top & bottom metal tabs that come together are positioned at the top of the 45* slope towards the outside of the frame rails. That puts the recessed pins front & rear of the bolts.
 

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I think I see the difference now, I have a set of skinnier rectangular anchor mounts and a set of square ones, the skinnier ones i mocked up have pins on both top and bottom of the mount and have to be mounted vertically with the tabs positioned on the sides, I believe the square ones only have a pin on one side. I'll have to double check the boxes tomorrow and get the part numbers.
.
 

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I don't recall at the moment exactly which Anchor mount I wound up using but do remember several that look almost identical. Some have the bolts offset from one another but as I remember, on mine the two mounting bolts were in the same position on either side. I'll have to try & dig up the number to be sure. Either way, your mount in the bottom pic does look to be under stress that is pulling it to one side (?).
 
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