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Discussion Starter #21
I doubt it will clear up, I strongly recommend you check everything again. When I swapped mine I experienced the same issue with the rack sticking. It took me a moment to figure it out until I looked closer. Those sleeves with a little arm that rides on the rack must be seated properly. They tilt/move very easily which causes them to stick. I doubt the governor will have anything to do with it but I would double check. I would remove the governor again and test the rack many, many times to see if the problem went away with the governor removed. If it did then I would pay close attention when re-installing the governor (process of elimination type thing). So basically go back and take another real close look as opposed to hoping it’ll clear up.

Regarding the stock settings, I don’t have input worth much. Although I feel like you’ll have to take the pump for calibration and the shop will take care of your settings. Unless you’re trying to skip the shop calibration hoping it’ll work fine…
 

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Discussion Starter #22
By the way, when the rack is at its stuck position, check to see if one of the plungers/sleeves is the one sticking; there will be enough play/clearance to check every sleeve individually to identify the one that’s sticking. If it’s none of them, then it would have to be the rack itself (which I doubt) or the governor…as you suspect.
 

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So I cycled the rack without the governor and it is very smooth. I noticed that the return spring is weak, however. For instance, if i turn the pump on its side, the rack will move forward on its own since the spring cant hold its weight. When I install the governor, the rack moves fine, but doesnt consistently return to the same position. Its not sticky per say, as it always moves freely, but it seems like the springs arent strong enough to return it consistently. If I open and close the throttle, it doesnt always end up in the same place.
 

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Also, yes, I was going to try to calibrate it myself. My plan is to put it on a lathe that I have access to at work and set the rack travel and flow rates on that. I plan on filling a couple graduated cylinders over time like the older calibration machines did. If it doesnt work out, I'll just send it in
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Mine returned the rack firmly, reasonably. I'm not remembering that spring right now, but you didn't do anything to it by any chance, did you! Or could it be that the rack is too clean and needs a little oil to slide with more ease...

By the way, are you saying that the rack slides better without the governor?
 

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Update on my build:

I put my 603 pump on a lathe and calibrated the governor myself as per dieselmeken's rsf calibration how to on youtube (won't let me link yet)

Basically I set the lathe to an rpm closest to his and then used a dial indicator to set the rack. It took a couple tries, but I think it worked out alright because I was able to get my motor running on a stand for the first time today. I did not adjust individual fueling calibration between cylinders for now. I think I'll upgrade to a proper pump once i get the truck driving. At the moment, I'm only focusing on feasibility.

Here is a picture of my lathe setup:
20171029_181318.jpg

I did notice that the motor shook quite a bit and let out a lot of gray smoke. I'm hoping that it's just crap burning off in the cylinders and the injectors priming since it hasn't been run in who knows how long. It may take a bit for the rings to get back to business so that all cylinders can fire properly. Next step is to setup a throttle and setup the turbo wastegate for max boost. I noticed that my throttle arm hits one of the glow plug connectors as well. Where are you sourcing your wastegate and throttle lever parts? Seems like om603 cars are a great source for anything needed to run these mechanically. I already have a 603 glow plug timer and idle controller on my junk yard list.

In addition to this my to do list for the project is as follows:
Source om648 sump and pump
source intercooler (water or air?)
Swap 4hp24 transmission internals into my 4hp22 for extra strength (recently acquired a 4hp24)
order bellhousing adapter and motor mounts
make power steering and oil cooler lines
plumb radiator
relocate ac compressor
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Finally your long-awaited input, thanks.

You've already achieved far more than I did...I simply swapped the plungers. So great job so far and hopefully the shake is just the motor. It you were closer I'd let you try one of my good working pumps to rule out the motor. By the way, you asked before and now it may be late, but I would sell my 90cc pump now, my other 70+cc one works good enough for me.

Anyway, I sourced my stuff from 603s and 617s at the junkyards (throttle link is 617).

I too want to find a 648 sump...and should replace the turbo with a fast-spooling one by the end of the month. I'll post an update.

Please tell le how I can find your video, title or something.
 

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Here's a video of my motor running on the stand, as well as the videos I used to calibrate and time my pump. I have an oil pan and pump on order via ebay from germany at the moment, so things are moving along slowly but surely. I still can't add videos, so just add the following suffix's to a youtube url to find the vids. Again, it ran pretty rough, but I didn't want to run long since I had no cooling system hooked up. The egr pipe was not installed which is where the loud firing was being heard from. Also, I'm sure the fuel lines had air in them - I had just finished bleeding one and decided to see if it would run at all. Hopefully this will all clear up once I let it warm up for the first time in the truck.

/watch?v=raJYTcVF53Y
/watch?v=6z2qJx1yHoI
/watch?v=2DHD6UoALto
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hey Diesel Noob, sorry I just noticed your post.

Actually I do have updates, there probably hasn't been a day since I originally started this thread that I haven't done something on my truck. So there's been lots of suspension work, etc., etc., although the most significant progress took place just recently and it was related to performance. From the beginning the truck was lacking acceleration in the lower end. It appeared that I would only get useful boost past 3k rpm, however, for daily driving in congested city traffic, it was very annoying. I spent lots of time and money trying different torque converters (1300, 1600, and 2200 stalls), and different turbos among many other things.

Again, I had started with the stock kkk14 turbo. Then I tried a TD04HL but saw no significant difference. Then I tried a GT23V off the OM648, which is what I currently have now. This turbo definitely spooled faster yet my truck wasn't performing the way I thought it should. I was about to fit my mechanical pump with 7.5mm elements but instead decided to try a stock EDC pump (6mm) with Baldur's DSL1. HUGE IMPROVEMENT!!! My truck finally drove awesome. I just switched to the EDC IP a few weeks ago, I'm still fine-tuning things but from day one the truck ran terrific. Even with just a 4-speed transmission my truck performs better than the stock W210 E300. I will continue to fine tune fuel and boost with the standalone ecu, however, any gains from here on should be small. At this point I pretty much want to optimize fuel economy, which I should get to in the next couple weeks.

Now with a more precise RPM reading (my previous rpm unit was deceiving me, it was my fault), I'm finding out that my rpm's are around 2000 at 70 mph. That rpm is a bit low. I currently have a 3.73 rear end and I want to switch to a 4.1, hopefully in the next couple months.

The other major problem I was dealing with when I first started this thread was the mysterious death wobble. I have replaced just about every suspension part there is. Eventually I managed to control the wobble, I can say I haven't had it in several months, however, I know the problem is still there. At certain highway speeds, around 50 mpg, the problem (wobble) is triggered however it's controlled instantly. A good alignment shop set my caster around 1 degree. It's supposed to be something around 3.5 or so I believe, but that spec caster makes my wobble way worse. I'm not going to give up on this, I'll figure it out sooner or later. I'll start by repositioning the motor and re-doing the mounts with an OM648 oil pan I just got.

I will be posting another video real soon, for sure a drive along one.
 

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Do you have standard offset front wheels and normal width tires? Wider offset front wheels and wide tires are a sure ingredient for death wobble.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I do, in fact, when the problems fist started my wheels and suspnsion were all stock. A couple months after I finished the swap, one day out of the clear blue it started wobbling bad on the freeway. I thought something had come loose but no, I even struggled some to get back home just a few mile away, had to keep it under 40mph. At that point I started replacing just about every suspension part. Eventually I lowered the truck and problem continued. I’v also struggled to get it alighned, as if I had wrecked it but it’s never been hit. I had the chasis checked and it was good. It also bounces more than normal (on healthy, heavy duty schocks). I’ve tried lots of wheels and schocks, new and of good quality. Sort of seems as if some structural member is pre-loaded, stores energy (kinetic I think), to a point that gets hard to dampen by schocks. I checked the chasis thoroughly for cracks, etc. Something else, the first few weeks after completing the swap, the front end bounced excessively; sometimes I had to stop the truck to kill the bounce, the reason is that I had not yet replaced the crossmember that seems to absorb most of front wheel loading. I have wondered if I bent the chasis, but then again it checked fine. Also re-torqued all bushings to see they don’t have a preload manisfesting an inability to dampen energy.
 

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If you have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock with engine off, watch all the fittings, best way to find slop causing death wobble.

Ed
 
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