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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I'm getting ready to put a 4BT in my '63 Jeep J300.

The 4BT is from a Frito Lay truck, and thus, close to 20 years old. Would this be a good time to replace the rear main seal? What other things should I do now that the engine is accessible?

Will I need a lift pump (maybe a frame-mounted electric pump?), or will the mechanical pump in the engine suffice?

Thank you.

Mikel
 

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Mikel,

The rear seal would be a good idea but if it does't look wet or has dirt stuck around that looks wet ,I would let it go or just replace and your good to go and never have to worry about for a long time.Also reseal anything that is leaking.

1. Do the fix for the KDP ,before there is any problems.
2. Change Gov spring if you want any more power,so you don't have to lean over the fender.

Fuel pumps.

How did it run before ? did you have a fuel problems?

No electric pump needed,the stock pump will be fine.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mikel,

The rear seal would be a good idea but if it does't look wet or has dirt stuck around that looks wet ,I would let it go or just replace and your good to go and never have to worry about for a long time.Also reseal anything that is leaking.

1. Do the fix for the KDP ,before there is any problems.
2. Change Gov spring if you want any more power,so you don't have to lean over the fender.

Fuel pumps.

How did it run before ? did you have a fuel problems?

No electric pump needed,the stock pump will be fine.

Scott
Hello,
I only drove the breadvan for about 50 miles 3 years ago, when I bought it. It drove fine. I'm asking about the rear seal, since it looks soooo easy to replace at this point.

At 128K miles, do the valves need adjusting?

Thank you.

Mikel
 

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Mikel,
I replaced all the seals I could, even the rear seal. It's easy to change and you really are in a good position; not having it in your vehicle yet. Also look at your timing cover seal and the oil filler spout on the front of the timing cover if you have it on your's. That was a leaky area on mine.
 

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The fuel solenoid valve at the top rear of VE pump can be a REAL pain to change out in the vehicle. They're available for less than $40 and do fail, so that might be a good thing to replace while it's out of chassis. I wish I had changed my rear main when I did ny swap.

On the Dowel Pin Repair I see very few references to the timing housing bolts that hold it to block. When I fixed my dowel pin I found that one bolt was less than finger tight, 2 were finger tight, and one had about 5lbs. torque on it. These sit right above the timing geartrain, so I cleaned out the threaded holes of all accessible bolts, cleaned bolts, and Loctited the daylights out of them and torqued to spec.

Note: the timing cover/crank seal is to be installed DRY, no lube, with the installation tool provided with it. I think the rear main is a DRY install also.

There's a temp sender at the bottom water outlet housing on block which controls electric cooling fan if so equipped. Might want to remove it and test continuity on it in a pan of hot/boiling water. Best time to replace it if it's funky.
 

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where are you getting all your parts? I can't seem to find a place that has everything i need in stock and it's a pain ordering from 8 different places. is a cummins dealer the best option?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello,
After a quick search, I see that there are tons of articles about the KDP, and that it doesn't look too difficult to do. Looks like this is the right time to that, as well as the front (a given if fixing the KDP) and rear main seals. I'll have to do some research on the governor spring and fuel solenoid valve. Does anyone have any info on these?
Thank you.
Mikel
 

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Governor spring info:

http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor_Spring/index.html

There's no rocket science to the fuel solenoid valve. The hard part is accessing the screws: 1 10mm, two Torx, 2 allen head at back of pump. That is, I removed the rear pump bracket so I could get a wrench on the sloenoid valve. There's an o-ring you have to be careful of losing right when you lift the fuel sonoid out of pump body. Mine didn't fall and get lost 'cause it was jammed cockeyed on the solenoid plunger! Thankful for small blessings. It's supposed to seal the solenoid assembly to pump body.

Inspect the rubber tip of fuel plunger for pits and missing chunks. It should be okay on a stock engine but when you really turn up the fuel it can blow chunks and the whole tip clean off! As mentioned new solenoids are available for about $40:

http://www.autopartsauthority.com/oemmakes/volkswagen~Shut-Off_Valve~oemparts.html

JimmieD
 

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Update on Solenoid Valve

I posted a link for parts for Bosch VE pumps:

http://www.autopartsauthority.com/oemmakes/volkswagen~Shut-Off_Valve~oemparts.html

It takes you to a page showing Volkswagen fuel shutoff solenoids. In case there's some confusion, that's the same solenoid used on the 4BT's Bosch VE [aneroid] injection pump. 1/3 to 1/4 of the Cummins price, thank you Cummins!? Apparently the link is not being displayed properly so the part number you're looking for is Part # D2004-61881
 

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guys those seals are designed to go a million miles. if there leaking its because your engine has blow by...............
i just wanted to replace them while the engine was out of the vehicle... clearance is tight, it would be a giant pain to do them later.
 
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