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I'm at the point in my project (a 78 ford crew cab so theres alot of surface area to resonate off of) that i will be driving it soon and i had a guy in my autobody class where he put down rhino liner first and then was going to put down dynomat. But he hadn't quite got all the way done and wasn't driving it full time yet. My question is has anybody tried this is it worth to do both. I was already planning on rhino lining the bottom of the cab and doing dynomat inside the cab. I'm tired of the road noise in the pickup that its in now and i really would like to get it to the point where its a comfortable ride. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 

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I had Reflex brand bed liner sprayed on the inside firewall and floor of a 61 F350 with a Detroit diesel. The Reflex is pretty rubbery once cured, not hard or tough. The old nasty carpet did a better job than the Reflex, and the Reflex when warm smelled nasty for a week of driving (cross country). Windows open, 75 mph and still get a head ache.
The folks who installed it said it'd do a good job of sound deadening.... that's BS, it may have done something but it wasn't worth the effort. Later on I was having something coated in Line-X and asked them about sound deadening... they said no surprise that the Reflex didn't do much, apparently it doesn't have much ____ in it and line-X does (not sure what component they were talking about). They said they do use Line-X for a sound deadener with great results, inside work vans and things like that, and no smell at all. I don't have any first hand experience with it.

The plan for sound and insulation in my truck is use some stick on sound deadener in smaller pieces on the larger flat panels, cheaper than plastering the whole thing and almost as effective. Then use some heat insulation over that, probably this http://www.lobucrod.com/
Might have line-x sprayed in as a floor mat over some plastic sheet or something so it can be removed easily. Basically a custom fit floor mat.. not sure if that'll really work though.

Some more sources/info
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
http://www.quietride.com/
http://store.secondskinaudio.com/


Grigg
 

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dont forget fatmat rattle trap. my brother used it in his buick, and it was great. if you have the money, the sounddeadenershowdown is the way to fly with his noise cancellation mat and foam.
 

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Make sure you do the inside of the doors. Your biggest reductions will be in dealing with the vibrations themselves. Liquid motor mounts, a good Dampner. These old Fords turn into steel drums with normal 4bt vibrations.

Dave
 

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You need three layers to stop noise.

First the deadener (dynamatt, roof flashing tape etc) to stop panels vibrating.
Then an insulation layer to stop the high frequencies getting through. Closed cell foam is best, open cell foam works okay.
Then a heavy top layer to stop the low frequencies getting through. Heavy carpet, mass loaded vinyl etc.

I can't see any single layer coating doing much. A thick layer of underseal did virtually nothing for noise in my work car. But using the flashing tape to deaden the panels and then foam between that and the original vinyl made a huge improvement.
 

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You need three layers to stop noise.

First the deadener (dynamatt, roof flashing tape etc) to stop panels vibrating.
Then an insulation layer to stop the high frequencies getting through. Closed cell foam is best, open cell foam works okay.
Then a heavy top layer to stop the low frequencies getting through. Heavy carpet, mass loaded vinyl etc.

I can't see any single layer coating doing much. A thick layer of underseal did virtually nothing for noise in my work car. But using the flashing tape to deaden the panels and then foam between that and the original vinyl made a huge improvement.
Exactly.

Soundedenershowdown.com- I use his CLD tiles and source armaflex closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl from a local wholesaler. Hard to beat the results. You only need 25% coverage and only on flat surfaces that can resonate with the CLD tiles. Cover with foam then vinyl and you're set.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree with lonno theses trucks are tin cans i plan on putting sound deadener everywhere i can reach including the outside of the firewall. I'm going to take dougal's advice and layer insulation inside. Its going to be awhile before i get liquid motor mounts and a damper. with all the interior i'm building i hope to get the whole cab covered. thanks for all the help guys.
 

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I put the second skin closed cell stuff on top of the butyl/dynamat stuff inside the cab and then carpet on top of that. Put the butyl stuff on both sides of the firewall and inside the doors. 2/3 layers and cover the tranny hump generously.
 

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How is that work? My f100 is all metal right now, no carpet no nothing!! ANother thing is doors, I dont have panels there either, what do you guys use to keep the damn panels from rattling?!

I have heard some people using some peel n stick roofing insulation. That may be an option for some? Seemed to be much less expensive.
 

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How is that work? My f100 is all metal right now, no carpet no nothing!! ANother thing is doors, I dont have panels there either, what do you guys use to keep the damn panels from rattling?!

I have heard some people using some peel n stick roofing insulation. That may be an option for some? Seemed to be much less expensive.
I couldn't tell you if it was true or not but I read that many people who tried the roofing stuff regretted it. It made their vehicle smell like tar when it was hot outside.
 

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I couldn't tell you if it was true or not but I read that many people who tried the roofing stuff regretted it. It made their vehicle smell like tar when it was hot outside.
I have heard that before and IMO it's bollocks. The stories I tracked always went back to claims by people who used an expensive commercial product and had no experience with the bitumen tapes.
Bitumen has been and still is used for car sound deadening by automakers world wide. There's no smell from that. I have used roof flashing tape with "modified bitumen" throughout my work car and there is no smell. Not even when peeling and applying it with the whole backing exposed. Certainly not after use either. There is only the edges exposed then.
 

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I used Peel & Seal roof flashing, and according to my Girl Friend who has a pretty sensitive nose, she doesn't notice a smell from it. It also sticks well to a clean surface. It does nothing as far as I can tell as a thermal barrier, but definitely changes the "tinny" sound to a dull solid thud.
I have kind of an on-going thread on quieting down my Scout here (the good info doesn't start until about post #8):
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106679&highlight=Quieting

Hth,

Scott
 

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So anyone that's been driving with the insulation after a while have any regrets?

I want to use the material on the website listed above on the inside under some thick carpet on the firewall and floor. Use outdoor carpet on the hard top. And possibly some roll on application on the bottom side of the trans tunnel and behind the motor on the firewall
 

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So anyone that's been driving with the insulation after a while have any regrets?

I want to use the material on the website listed above on the inside under some thick carpet on the firewall and floor. Use outdoor carpet on the hard top. And possibly some roll on application on the bottom side of the trans tunnel and behind the motor on the firewall
No regrets. But it's an addiction. You can never get a vehicle too quiet!
 

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I bought a 100 sq. foot roll of Fat Mat.

It is sticky on 1 side, and after 2.5 years in my BJ60 it is still holding up great. Canceled out a TON of sound, used to feel like I was driving around in a snare drum. Now it is actually quite nice. The biggest things were doing the trunk floor area and the door panels. The next biggest thing that I wish I could do easily, would be the firewall.

Compared to other products like dynamat it is quite cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Thick-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Install/dp/B003TP4R16
 

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dont forget fatmat rattle trap. my brother used it in his buick, and it was great. if you have the money, the sounddeadenershowdown is the way to fly with his noise cancellation mat and foam.
I threw some fatmat in my 97 dodge with a 12valve. It helps take the edge off the sound nicely. My stereo comes in way clearer also.
 

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FatMat here! I have purchased 300 sqft of it over the past couple trucks I have done. I usually do two layers on floor and firewall. One layer on inside of door and on cab back. I have yet to see what it does between roof and headliner.

Looking into closed cell foam too. I am really happy with fatmat but the excitement wears off and it becomes a competition to see how quiet you can make a straight pipe diesel on the inside.
 

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After doing my cab I found that the closed cell foam made the biggest difference of all of it. I did spray on second skin on both sides of the firewall, floor, and back of cab. Then fat mat on the inside. then eazy cool on the firewall and roof. then the closed cell foam. The CCF sure made a big difference in the end. I used Eastwood landau top and trim contact cement to put the EZ cool and CCF in; worked great! Don't bother with any adhesives that come in a can; they are crap and will fail sooner than later.
 
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