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Discussion Starter #1
The truck: 2006 F250 with a dead 6.0 200k+

The motor is a 2005 5.9 common rail in need.

I was going to put in a 12 valve out of my 1993 2500 but ended up getting a core 5.9 CR with the G56 I picked up. I was hoping it only needed some minor work but it had a broken ring and damaged cylinder wall. After 4 months at the machinist (he is a one man shop) I received my motor back. Right now I have the crank and pistons installed but noticed the cooling nozzle hits the Mahle pistons. They have the groove in a slightly different spot. I am bored .20 over, one sleeve on #6 and using a Mahle gasket kit. I am waiting to hear back from Mahle about the nozzles. I have new nozzles ordered. I was going to just bend the old ones to miss and maintain the aim to the oil hole. That worked for 5 out of 6, 1 wiggled after the adjustment- maybe it did before? The stock OEM piston's hole is in a different spot as far as I can tell. I am waiting for 1 1/2" lifters vs the 1 1/4" the machinist supplied. He said it didn't matter and I stated I wanted what I had. 1 1/2 =more duration.
Now, with a reground cam and new lifters I guess I need push rods too..
The injectors and pump are at the shop and hopefully it's not all needing replacement...
Originally I thought I could build cheaper than I could buy.
 

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Here is a shot of the nozzle, if you look close you can see some oil squeeze up. The second pic is the OEM piston. I am curious if the oil is intended to squirt into the hole in the piston throughout the range of the stroke or as it gets closer. I would assume all the time.
 

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Avoiding adapters was one of my objectives and unwittingly the NP273 Dodge and Ford transfer cases have a lot of common parts. I was able to put the Dodge spud shaft into the Ford t-case but had to modify and stack the needle bearing cartridge on the nose as I would only get partial contact otherwise. Doing this will allow me to keep all of my driveshafts stock. I should have just boughtought the complete reseal/rebuild kit from Allstate gear. Instead I paid shipping twice... For less parts. Here is a picture of the rear portion of the shaft that goes into the planetary. The short one it the one I used is from the Ford case.
 

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Nice build. That's a bit strange about the notch in the pistons from Mahle. Be interested to know what they say about that. Don't know that there were any different nozzles from '03 up models. Sounds like some machinist at Mahle has his specs off a bit. And yes, the cooling oil hits the back of the piston all the time. That helps dissipate the heat from the combustion process. Temp in the combustion area can be above 1000 deg F and get too hot and the aluminum piston will melt. Gets very ugly.
 

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If those were my pistons, I would just widen the nozzle groove a bit more while maintaining a full radius. When I rebuilt my Toyota TurboDiesel. I had to source pistons from the UK. The nozzle grooves were 180 degrees off so I machine a second notch in them. Engine stills runs fine.
 

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If it was 180 deg off wouldn't that mean you installed the pistons on rods in reverse position? There is often an arrow on the piston pointing which way is front.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I want to see what Mahle, says. Easiest is bend the nozzles and aim them right(??), next is pull it all apart, file, clean, lube and reassemble. I ordered some nozzles NOS off eBay, # 4937308, the old ones are 3968877. I'm curious to see if there is a difference. The picture is a modified (bent) nozzle. This is a bit of a pain but I am glad I noticed it.
 

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If it was 180 deg off wouldn't that mean you installed the pistons on rods in reverse position? There is often an arrow on the piston pointing which way is front.
I thought maybe you would comment. I appreciate all your knowledge on this forum. Yes, there were arrows, along with indents for the valves dictating only one orientation. I did install them with the arrow pointing front.
I sourced pistons from a European model because nothing was available stateside. For some reason Toyota changed the engines or used a different design for the later European models. In fact I also CNC machined the wrist pin bosses inside the pistons to accept my wider connecting rod.
 

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I want to see what Mahle, says. Easiest is bend the nozzles and aim them right(??), next is pull it all apart, file, clean, lube and reassemble. I ordered some nozzles NOS off eBay, # 4937308, the old ones are 3968877. I'm curious to see if there is a difference. The picture is a modified (bent) nozzle. This is a bit of a pain but I am glad I noticed it.
I personally would not bend the nozzles. It would worry me that it may cause a failure from stress, narrowing the port, or loosening them in their mounting block. I may be over cautious, but I even treat them the same as connecting rods and mains, that is, I make sure they are properly torqued with a recently calibrated torque wrench.
 

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Elbonk, your 3968877 and 4937308 should be the same. The new number probably happened in a change of supplier or when the ISDe engine came out which uses the same part. If you back up a little to about 2004, the nozzle was all metal, no plastic. Here's a photo of one from a 2004 Dodge. All of them appear to have the pipe straight out with no bend.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is the reply from Mahle, notice there is no real recommended solution..They were very responsive and quick to get back to me. That in itself was impressive.

"I have one of our pieces here but I do not have an OE piece to compare to. Both the 224-3672 and 224-3673 have the same casting and we sell a ton of these pistons. I don't know about you but I have not heard of this complaint before. From what I can see in the pictures it looks like the oiler may be slightly away from the machined edge. I would have them see if moving this back some will re-orient the nozzle to the correct position."

So we can't really answer why this is happening. We sell about 577 per month of just the 2243673.020 piston and have had no issues. Only idea is the one above..""
 

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Thanks for that picture. I believe the nozzle is swedged/stamped on to the round piece and the plastic may also serve to retain the nozzle if it happened to come loose vs. the metal piece and of course plastic is probably less expensive and lighter.
My only thought is that the machined spots for my squirter is deeper than normal but wasn't out of spec for the OEM piston's.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I examined the broken nozzle an a tack weld broke, probably from me twisting. The plastic was pretty tough so I am just gonna reuse the old ones that I have already bent. I made a tool to make sure they are hitting the hole as much as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any opinions on pushrods? The manual states that I need to replace as I am running new lifters on my reground cam.. OEM? Aftermarket-? Cummins Australia/eBay/India? $70+/- shipped? Pop
 
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