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Was the seal one matched to the sleeve? Sounds like you might have gotten a stock size seal. Just be sure everything is totally dry and free of oil when you install it. Any oil on the surface of the sleeve and it's guaranteed to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I am wondering if the outer seal was the wrong one.
Thanks for the reminder on keeping it clean. Weird seals but they last a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Picked up an OEM seal off eBay, it went on a little easier than the Mahle one, quality was about the same on the big seal and repair sleeve as far as I can tell. I used a 2 1/2 PVC coupling to set the seal but managed to knock the install pilot out. I got it back together- moving forward...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Found these push rods on ebay- manual says replace pushrods if replacing lifters which you should replace if you're replacing the cam- I had mine reground... Money follows money... These were less than 1/2 price and sound look the same. If OEM is chromoly these are too.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Getting closer- I have to get some accessories and fuel lines reinstalled andI wish I would have been more thorough labeling and bagging up screws.. I tagged and bagged but still had some confusion... I still have a ton of "conversion" work to do..
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I am not having much success finding "free" schematics. One drop box download was almost 10000 pages and my connection/computer didn't like it..
Cleaning up the engine bay in preparation for the motor going in. It doesn't look like the frame had hardly any paint at all. This has been an Oregon truck but I know the PO traveled a lot. It has a nice uniform coat of rust..
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks, I looked at a lot of similar era frames around here and many I've seen are in about the same condition. I found some eastern Ford's online that had major rot on their frames so I guess I am spoiled. I had a 2000 Tacoma that looked newish and really no rust.. I haven't broken any fasteners so I think it's just a bad paint job. I don t think the driveshaft had any paint on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Dodge and Ford sure don't do things the same way. Trying to figure out what stays and what goes is tricky business. I could buy the 600$ DC rework package or the Painless stand alone harness but I I want to learn how all this stuff works, well, at a simple level.
I am trying to reuse existing Ford wiring in conjunction with the Dodge. I would like to see how DCS transitions from the Dodge harness to the Ford and how they transition through the firewall to the pedal. Ford used a similar system on there pedal but I will assume the values at the pedals are different, thus I need to source a dodge pedal. I accidentally cut the Crank sensor cable but will fix that later. I also found the PO cut the rail pressure sensor connector off but I don't need that. That must have been where the old 6.0 injectors went as well- huh, weird..
Here is some of my mess and some helpful manuals I picked up- these are a great put-me-to-sleep reads...
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I will try to document what I do as I haven't found any diagrams of this at all on line. DCS used to sell their recipe but it required to much tech support...q
 
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