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Was the seal one matched to the sleeve? Sounds like you might have gotten a stock size seal. Just be sure everything is totally dry and free of oil when you install it. Any oil on the surface of the sleeve and it's guaranteed to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I am wondering if the outer seal was the wrong one.
Thanks for the reminder on keeping it clean. Weird seals but they last a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Picked up an OEM seal off eBay, it went on a little easier than the Mahle one, quality was about the same on the big seal and repair sleeve as far as I can tell. I used a 2 1/2 PVC coupling to set the seal but managed to knock the install pilot out. I got it back together- moving forward...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Found these push rods on ebay- manual says replace pushrods if replacing lifters which you should replace if you're replacing the cam- I had mine reground... Money follows money... These were less than 1/2 price and sound look the same. If OEM is chromoly these are too.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Getting closer- I have to get some accessories and fuel lines reinstalled andI wish I would have been more thorough labeling and bagging up screws.. I tagged and bagged but still had some confusion... I still have a ton of "conversion" work to do..
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I am not having much success finding "free" schematics. One drop box download was almost 10000 pages and my connection/computer didn't like it..
Cleaning up the engine bay in preparation for the motor going in. It doesn't look like the frame had hardly any paint at all. This has been an Oregon truck but I know the PO traveled a lot. It has a nice uniform coat of rust..
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks, I looked at a lot of similar era frames around here and many I've seen are in about the same condition. I found some eastern Ford's online that had major rot on their frames so I guess I am spoiled. I had a 2000 Tacoma that looked newish and really no rust.. I haven't broken any fasteners so I think it's just a bad paint job. I don t think the driveshaft had any paint on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Dodge and Ford sure don't do things the same way. Trying to figure out what stays and what goes is tricky business. I could buy the 600$ DC rework package or the Painless stand alone harness but I I want to learn how all this stuff works, well, at a simple level.
I am trying to reuse existing Ford wiring in conjunction with the Dodge. I would like to see how DCS transitions from the Dodge harness to the Ford and how they transition through the firewall to the pedal. Ford used a similar system on there pedal but I will assume the values at the pedals are different, thus I need to source a dodge pedal. I accidentally cut the Crank sensor cable but will fix that later. I also found the PO cut the rail pressure sensor connector off but I don't need that. That must have been where the old 6.0 injectors went as well- huh, weird..
Here is some of my mess and some helpful manuals I picked up- these are a great put-me-to-sleep reads...
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I will try to document what I do as I haven't found any diagrams of this at all on line. DCS used to sell their recipe but it required to much tech support...q
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have been looking for a headlight to dash harness to try and save time but geez everyone wants tons of money for them, maybe there is a lot of demand!?!! Any leads on someone parting out a 2005?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Found a harness on eBay, received it and it was baked, dirty and pretty messed up, 2+ weeks later they sent me a harness out of the same year but different configuration (maybe automatic?) And it is in way better shape. Put the OEM new clutch pedal assembly and made an adapter to mount the Mopar pedal (APPS)
 

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1964 Chevy C10, Cummins ISB170, Allison 1000 5 speed, full float 9”, ECU Tune, 5/7” static drop
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Baby steps... It's tough finding time and motivation after work and with other things that need to get done..I have lots of stuff. Three pedals! I need to find a tilt column for a manual tranny now(and lots of other $tuff!!)
Stay with it. It all gets better, when it runs and drives.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks,
I am learning not to get overwhelmed by focusing on one issue at a time. If I have an issue, l tackle something else. More wiring! The first harness is the engine harness and I could have spliced into that but I opted to cut up a$200 dodge head light to dash harness so it will be be easier to remove/ reinstall the engine and not be hard wired to the Ford. I will utilize the Ford harness as well. Diesel conversions sells a harness service for this for $550-600. I have to decide between the Ford alternator and an adapter or the Dodge but having a charge light on all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It's in for the first time. I'm trying to get it positioned so I can fabricate some motor mounts. I thought I could squeeze the motor in without having to shorten my rear drive shaft but I think the mechanical fan is going hit the radiator if I don't. I was able to sneak the engine into the bay and I only had to remove the valve cover. I hope to hit it hard as I have the rest of the week off.
 

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Coming along there. I know that most people fabricate their own engine mounts but wondered if you just considered buying those. Destroked sells them for $295.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I looked into it and I knew my time vs. buying them might not be worth the Fab time but it looks like I put the motor lower than most of the prefab ones and as tall as the G56 sits I have a fair amount of tilt down at the back. I still can cut out and raise the floor in the cab but don't want to have to redo the carpet. I also am suspicious that prefab mounts would have forced me to have drive shafts redone. I am 1/2" off original t-case location and 3/4+ away from the radiator. I saw some threads where guys who bought mounts wished they had made their own.. I am not regretting that. My tranny selection wasn't the typical choice.
 
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