[Elbonk]

Dang work!! Well, thankfully I have had work with all of this virus craziness but I haven't had much time to work on the project. I ordered some parts from DCS. I purchased the hose kit, PS adapter and sensor adapters. For $20 I had my PS high pressure line spliced and found some weird stuff inside, a plastic inner tube in one and a coiled steel inner tube in the other... Hopefully it wasn't structural..
I think all of the items were a good trade off for time saved. The instructions for the hose kit are vague on utilizing the Cummins return line. It looks like I am going to need to adapt from a bigger hose to the smaller Cummins return. I like the prefab hard line- much prettier than anything I would have come up with. This kit was made for their mounts and I ended up swapping the hoses top to bottom on this lower unit and it's a good fit.

 

[Elbonk]

I picked up a gently used stainless diamond eye performance 5" exhaust from a 6.7 and ordered a 4" turbo down pipe/4-5" adapter. I figured why not, Summit has pretty good prices on the diamond eye performance and the parts are made in Eastern Oregon.. it came with a turbine muffler so hopefully it's not too droney..

 

[Elbonk]

Local shop said I would be in the 800 to 1000 range for a custom aluminumized install.. I will have half that or less into the exhaust.

 

[Elbonk]

This doesn't do anything but it looks cool..

 

[Elbonk]

More progress, now for the wiring.

 

[Elbonk]

I went to my Freightliner/Cummins dealer and picked up some filters, they beat the on line prices... Funny how that works.. I put the 10 micron filter before the Fuel pump, then I have a Baldwin in the stock housing and may put a 1 micron after that before the Fuel pump. I set the fuel pressure at 15 psi.

 

[Elbonk]

New video by Elbonk 1

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Elbonk]

Fired it up this weekend... It sure is tough getting chunks of time to keep my momentum on this.

 

[Elbonk]

New video by Elbonk 1

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Elbonk]

Since I have an automatic I don't have a clutch position switch which probably has the same input as the tranny shifter position switch that is an electronic signal generator vs. a simple multi position switch. I either need to find a work around or put the tranny device switch.. I sold the tranny already, Doh!

 

[Elbonk]

Any opinions on how this sounds? I will check valve adjustment as it seems a little lopey. I think I hear a valve tick bit with the reground cam it may take a while to get it to settle in. I suppose a proper break in is in order.

New video by Elbonk 1

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Elbonk]

I have a pretty bad oil leak and figure it's a botched rear main, cam gasket or oil gallery plug but it's mainly leaking on the passenger side. I do have a tiny bit of lean that way...

 

[Elbonk]

Wow.. I haven't been on here in a while. I have driven it once but had to have the driveline shortened and once that is done I can start the break in phase if everything is good to go. I need to rebuild the front u-joints and whatever else is in disrepair on the front axle. Any tips on parts sources?

 

[95Z28A4]

Wow.. I haven't been on here in a while. I have driven it once but had to have the driveline shortened and once that is done I can start the break in phase if everything is good to go. I need to rebuild the front u-joints and whatever else is in disrepair on the front axle. Any tips on parts sources?

I bought all of the U-joints for my 1998 Ram 2500 from Dennys Driveshaft and Driveline Parts High Speed High RPM Balanced Steel and Aluminum Drive Shaft Specialist with Free Shipping on parts orders over $99.00 . They are knowledgeable, friendly and their shipping costs are reasonable. They have been in business as long as I can remember (I'm 59).

 

[Elbonk]

Cool thanks, I will check it out

 

[Elbonk]

Took the truck for a drive with the new driveline installed. I have 8 mile drive that climbs about 4000 ft.. I figure that will put a good load on it.. It powered up the hills no problem. About 2/3 up the hill something seemed wrong... It seemed to have a miss-fire and some valve noise. I shut it down and coasted back. The top end noise was there with the ignition off, so to stay safe I left the engine off. Boy those brakes get hot!
Found #6 exhaust valve super loose, adjusted the valves-.010 intake, .020 exhaust.
Next run a couple days later we went almost as far and then went back home and did some hard pulls through the gears and highway speeds getting on it.
I think I am going to load something on a trailer and pull it around to stay with work it hard to get the rings to seat properly. I am not sure how to deal with registration as Oregon's DMV is online or appointment but they don't deal with registration at appointments and the on line won't work because I am not currently registered...
I utilized the stock dodge filter and made a duct that pulls air from the front.
Wired in a buss panel and relays that isolates truck power from ECM power so the motor is basically stand alone. I still have some things to do so not done with the loom part on the wiring..

 

[Elbonk]

Flushed out my distilled water with some more distilled water and put some G05 in. I've put about 50-60 miles on pulling a trailer up the hill, put my Dodge 2500 on the trailer and pulled it around the the local roads which includes a pretty steep grade and saw up to 30 psi of boost. I kept running out of road. Changed the oil and filter. I was nervous about the assembly crud/dust/lint, etc. I really don't have a bunch of heavy loads to haul so I am going to go out of my way to break it in properly.

 

[Elbonk]

I cleaned up a bunch of wiring, managed to get my reverse lights working when I shift into "R", mounted the grid heater relay and routed the wiring. I still need to sort out some support for the wires and I am considering a metal shroud to reduce heat blasting the batteries..

 

[Elbonk]

I also should build some sort of cover to keep the "+" terminals from getting shorted out. I don't like routing the power leads for the grid heater over the negative leads but they are fusible links and I don't want to crimp/extend. I may just make a bolt on extension and route under and around. Boy does it get busy around the batteries! I still want to add a winch and was considering running another alternator in place of the OEM vacuum pump for the jake brake that is no longer on my motor. Then I also plan on a camper/auxiliary power.
Anyone have thoughts on belt drive air compressors or 12 volt aircompressors? I probably will upgrade to air bags too..

 

[Elbonk]

I finally got all the little and big drips stopped. It decided to drip a little out of the breather after a long drive out in the back roads. I may have used a quart plus of oil in 500 miles. I've never rebuilt a motor entirely so I figure this should slow down after it breaks in. I haven't had a lot of time or work to do with it to work it hard. 12-14 mpg so far and trying to put my foot into it frequently..