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First day I bought my 1998 XJ. It was a 4x4 5 speed 4.0L Jeep Cherokee Sport. Nothing spectacular, but I had to have it since it was a 5 speed, and was the newer body style I liked.

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After lifting it and doing all the other stuff to it, I wanted a new power plant in it. My previous 1990 XJ was supposed to get a SBC LT1 in it, had all the parts but didn't have enough after I was screwed over on the engine deal, and didn't have enough money as a high school student to finish, so I sold all the parts. I still wanted to do an engine swap and started looking around.

I was starting to learn more and more about diesels and seeing how much ridiculous power could be made. And the fuel economy they are capable of was very enticing. So I spend hours of research on finding an engine that would work. I liked the Duramax after seeing and experiencing there power, so I searched around for a V6 version or that. Closest thing I could find was a V6 for Saab, but was across seas and couldn't get that. Found out about the 4BD engines on Wikipedia, and from there I found you guys! I stumbled across CarCrafter22's build and knew at that moment what engine was destine for my Jeep. The hunt was on!

I had the t case left over from the previous build that got shot down and just needed a transmission. Came across a Chevy 2002 1500 4x4 with a 5 speed in the junk yard so I pulled it and bought it. 2 weeks later came across another truck pretty much same exact as that one, so I took a day off work pulled trans and bought that one too! I had heard they aren't very strong so that's why I am hording them. Cleaned and painted it.

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It was the MG5 version (ID found in glove box). Which means wide gear ratio. M50 Close ratio was used in the S10 truck and blazers.

MG5 NV3500 4.016 2.318 1.401 1.000 0.729

M50 NV3500 3.490 2.160 1.400 1.000 0.780

MW3 NV4500 5.610 3.040 1.670 1.000 0.750 (109mm version)

Then I came across this 4BD2t. I had read they aren't as good as the 1t's but I got a good deal for it so I jumped on it. Only has 98,000 miles on it and I was able to watch him start it and hear it run.

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At this point I had t case, trans, and engine. Needed an adapter.... At this point in time, CarCrafter22 had taken over IDS conversion kits and had only a couple in stock. I did not like the design of those kits, and I didn't have a NV4500 so I couldn't use that kit sold by DieselTim, at least I think that's who was selling them back then. So I decided to take on "engineering" my own bellhousing adapter.

I had been working in a machine shop for a short time (2 years) and before that I was a high school student/mechanic. So you could say I had my work cut out for me trying to engineer this! But I enjoy a challenge and furthermore the pride in building designing and making something yourself! I had never spent much time on SolidWorks CAD software, but I have heard of how great it is for building assemblies. Spent some time learning and teaching myself how to use it, and after a couple months of reverse engineering a couple parts, buying parts to incorporate into my bellhousing, finding out all the hardware I needed and engineering around what hardware would work, and getting that raw material for the manufacturing of the bellhousing parts I came up with this. I had just got done my CAD right when Dustin released his. Took a couple months to find time on a weekend and free machine space to make my parts. But one weekend was open and Ben (friend/coworker) came in on the weekend and made all three parts. Lots of thanks to him, without him it would have taken me two weekends at least!

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Here is the engine out

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Working on reinforcing the uni body. 3/16" steel main supports and just over an 1/8" rear and front supports. Fair amount of welding. Also had to remove LCA brackets, and they are not fun!

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Discussion Starter #2
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Bushings were shot in my Rubicon Express 3.5" leafs. They were about 1 1/2 years old...

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New Daystar kit wouldn't fit cause the RE leafs have different diameter bushings then stock. So had to turn them down on the lathe.

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Dana 60 in, with HD Offroad Engineering shackle relocation brackets.

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Working on the 3 Link front Dana 44

Had to make some spacers to lower my LCA's to get my Anti Dive numbers where I wanted them. Since I can't move my UCA frame bracket up any because of the floor.

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Discussion Starter #3
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Added a leaf spring shackle relocation bracket in while doing the frame stiffening. Will smooth out the ride so much, because my shackle angle was just about perpendicular to the ground, and I recently learned that's no good and makes total sense! Also it adds lift which is okay with me. Did some research on front coil springs because I wanted the stiffest ones I could get since this engine is 200lbs more than the 4.0L that was in there previously. Emailed companies and got these answers

Stock - 136lbs/in

Rubicon Express
3.5" - RE1300 = 241lbs/in
4.5" - RE1310 = 164lbs/in
5.5" - RE1345 = 184lbs/in

Rustys Offroad
3.0" - RC-CS300-XJ = 150lbs/in
3.0" HD - RC-CS305-XJ = 180lbs/in
4.5" - RC-CS405-XJ = 150lbs/in

Rough Country
4.5" - 9269 = 170lbs/in
6.5" - 9275 = 190lbs/in


I already had the stiffest ones, so I kept them and just used 2" spacers in the front to match the added lift in the rear.

Realized I would snap that Chrysler 8.25 rear axle right away, so I got a Dana 60. (tube diameter 3 1/8")

Got a matching pair so in with the Dana 44 HP. These axles came out of a 1979 F250 (tube diameter 3") Building a 3 link.

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While taking of exhaust manifold, bolts broke. Spent some time looking through a catalog trying to find proper length and pitch to replace the broken bolts and studs. P/N 1800-110-150 They are ARP studs for a Dodge Neon, ha ha who would have guessed? (bad picture but you can see the studs)

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While exhaust manifold was off the flanges on the manifold looked deteriorated, so I machined them.

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Wanted a heater block for my engine so I found one and put it in place of the block plug. I did a little write up for that.

Transfer case I had wouldn't work cause it was a 27 spline and manual transmissions along with 4L80E's have 32 spline. So I bought one of those. SYE swapped it, replaced some seals, and shift pads that were worn out. P/N 14037966 , 12337980 , 14070291 GM replacements.

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Discussion Starter #4
Did some brake line work.

Stock proportioning valve cut and welded. Did this so I could use stock T block for front brake lines. And now using an Wilwood adjust proportioning valve in cabin.

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That plastic switch is designed for warning light. If there is a pressure difference between front and rear (such as a blown brake line or leak, there is a piston inside that will travel forward or rearward triggering that switch)

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Worked on the gas tank. Needed to remove the pump, and power leads. Used a pick tool (since I don't have those niffty connector pin tools) and pulled the leads, heat shrunk them and put them back in the convoluted cover.

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Here you can see that tube in the middle. That is the feed line that the fuel pump connects to. I blew through it and no resistance so I am using it for the return. I was thinking about attaching a piece of tubing to is and running it down to the bottom of the tank so that it wouldn't be dripping/flowing down and aerating the fuel. Since my sump pick up is close to being concentric with the basket.

So should I attach a piece of rubber tubing to it. Drill a hole in the basket and route the return out of the basket to the bottom of the tank? I have some "fuel compliant" tubing from Advanced Auto Parts, but I don't recall if its compliant for diesel. I don't want the tubing deteriorating and clogging my filter or lines since it will be soaking in fuel all the time if run to the bottom.

I already installed the tank and remembered that I didn't do this, so I might pull the tank again and do this if you guys can give me advice on whether this will be an issue or not. Most likely wouldn't cause an aeration issue until it gets down towards 1/4 tank

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I'm using a sump kit from Alligator Diesel Performance. Just went and found the most flat part on the tank marked it, used 2" hole saw. Very simple easy install.

The basket would hit the fixturing ring on the inside of the tank, so I had to chop off about 3/4" off the bottom of the basket.

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Discussion Starter #5
I faced, drilled, and tapped my passenger side knuckle so I could run high steer, and ordered Chassis Unlimited's Dana 44 flat top kit.

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I suggest you have someone with machining skills do this. If you don't do it right, you could put your life and or others in danger on the road.

While working on steering, I ran into couple issues, and that slowed my progress.

The high steer wouldn't work cause the tie rod would hit my coil springs. So my options were

*move coils back and remake LCA's and UCA then find away to locate shocks
*bend tie rod to clear coils (can't adjust toe then)
*use factory knuckle locations (in danger of rocks)

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I tried using lower knuckle locations, but my 1.5"x.250" DOM tubing was close to hitting my original diff cover, and when I put the Solid cast cover on it would hit before lock. So just and FYI and one using stock knuckle locations will not work. Need to have the bend in it that the factory one has.

So I ended up doing first option

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Slightly beefy control arms.

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Yes thats a broom handle... :dustin: much lighter to mock up with, rather than that heavy .25 wall steel. Cause dropping that on your head isn't a good day...



Front axle is going to stick out a bit :hillbilly:

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Axle was in for the most part, just need to make trac bar, can't do that till engine is fully in though. Then make shock mounts, since I won't be able to use the ones on the bracket cause the coil has been moved back 2" (now centered over axle tube)

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Now it was time to give a the first test fit to see how things were going to look! bounce

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Couldn't stop smiling, was a good feeling to finally have some actual "swap" progress.

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Issues I see are that my fuel filter head was hitting the fire wall bump out at the blower motor. Will have to relocate filter head.

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PROBLEM... This engine is pretty dang tall! Oil pan will be making contact with the diff. So I will need to massage it so that I will be able to get some up travel in the suspension.
 

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Did some brake line work.

Stock proportioning valve cut and welded. Did this so I could use stock T block for front brake lines. And now using an Wilwood adjust proportioning valve in cabin.

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That plastic switch is designed for warning light. If there is a pressure difference between front and rear (such as a blown brake line or leak, there is a piston inside that will travel forward or rearward triggering that switch)
How about some more info on this? Since we're using the same front axle I'd like some detailed explaining. Are you going to run larger lines to feed those big dual calipers? Do you have a source for brake lines/prop valves, etc? I've already bought new calipers and pads, and a couple of hydroboost assemblies to frankenstein the best I can for the Jeep engine compartment.
If you want to do this in the axle/brake section instead of cluttering your thread, that's fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I'll just keep this info here since its pertinent to Jeeps.

I used the Wilwood Adjustable proportioning valve P/N 260-10922 Then I just used 3/16 bulk brake line from the parts store. I made all new lines, just took the old rusty ones and mimicked them. I am using Rusty's Off road stainless braided lines, order what ever length you need. The caliper end has the same inner diameter for the banjo bolt and copper washers. But only problem is you need to mill off/grind about .220" off the front of banjo block so that you can mount it 90 degrees to the caliper so it points to the frame and not run into the rim/tire.

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Then I used a bracket from Speedway Motors and when I got it the bore was to small. So I bored it out to .628" so my brake line would slide right in, then welded it my frame.

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I have read about people using a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 master cylinder for more volume when running bigger brakes and disks all round, but then I have also heard of people using just an adjustable proportioning valve with stock master cylinder and dual diaphragm brake booster (which mine came with stock) and were able to lock up 38's. That master cylinder bolts right in to an XJ don't even have to re flare anything. The bracket for the stock proportioning valve needs to be modified to clear the bigger bore master cylinder. But it will bolt right into the brake booster. Before that you must measure the booster's rod length and then the master's rod depth and adjust it till they just make contact. You may have to remake a rod using 1/4-28 bolt and grind a radius on the end. I will swap the master cylinder out for the Ram 2500 if I need to.

The 1977-79 F250/350 (dual piston) brakes are the same. The master cylinder used a bore diameter of 1-1/16"

My Cherokee's (95-01) master cylinder bore is 1".

Dodge Ram 2500 (98-01) master cylinder bore 1-1/4"

I won't be using hydro boost, I have a vacuum pump. Also I did not use bigger lines because then I would defiantly need to swap out master cylinder. I thought 3/16 brake line was the standard on most cars and trucks on the road.

Heres the link for Jeep brake info Hope that helps!
 

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I thought 3/16 brake line was the standard on most cars and trucks on the road.

Thanks for the explanation.

i still have the ends of the caliper lines from my '78 F250 brakes and they are 1/4" or so (def bigger than 3/16). And wouldn't have thought the lines would start smaller and get larger as they get farther out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
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I wasn't happy with where my return line was. It was returning right above my sump, in the center of my basket. So I used a bulkhead fitting and bent up some -6 an line and ran it as close to the bottom of the tank as I could outside of the basket.


Took a video to check the return line. I was happy with how it turned out!

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Rubber line is vent. Silver is -6an return line. I capped off the original pressure line with a green cap. And the electrical wires are for fuel level and power to intake pump that I removed.

Diesel nozzels are larger, so I modified the fill neck.

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Also if you are working on a Cherokee and have difficulty with the bolts for the straps, just cut them as I did. Then weld a piece of 3/8-16 all thread and get some new nuts. Worked great! (mine got twisted and threads were all messed up)

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Excellent build thread! Very nice work and results there, I'm highly impressed. Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got the tank all buttoned up.

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I needed to vent the tank. So I ran a 1/4" rubber hose from the vent to this contraption I made with a 1/4" barb to 1/8" NPT fitting and screwed it into a 1/8" Female NPT brass stone filter I got off McMasterCarr. I then routed it up next to my fill hose and zip tied it up there.

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Fuel supply hard line and return line and bent painted and installed, along with fuel filter/separator.

The following weekend I got tired of working on the Jeep, so I headed to the pick and pull junk yard to relax and wonder.

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I found this 2002 GMC 2500 that had the LQ4 (6.0L) in it and thought to myself "wow if this thing was a manual then it'd have the NV4500" I start looking around it and to my amazement it was a manual truck! I went home and got all my tools together and ran to my dads shop and got some cordless impacts and such. And the following day I walked in with my dad as the gate opened and we pulled it! Man sometimes even I get lucky! Funny thing is as I was under it a guy was checking us out asking what we were doing, good thing I got there first, cause he had planned on getting the engine and trans. Needless to say he only left with that engine :happyfinger:

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Here in all its dirty, heavy duty glory! I power washed it right after this, now just needs a fresh coat on paint!

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Worked on scuffing up the adapter, I ended up not having it anodized. Cost was too high. i needed to protect my hard work from the elements.

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So I used some VHT engine enamel. I like the color and how it turned out. What do you guys think?

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Got all but transfer case hooked together.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Excellent build thread! Very nice work and results there, I'm highly impressed. Have fun!
Thank you! Yeah some days I've had fun, but some days its not very fun at all! But I have learned so much from this build and just can't wait to enjoy the fruits of my labor and money spent...

That is machinework to be proud of. Nice work!
Thanks! You turn out some great looking parts also. Glad to see you're back, hope all is well!

I had spent many many hours designing this adapter, and had the CAD files done about 2 weeks before you released your Cummins adapter. But it had taken me months to get open machine time on the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
While fitting the engine and trans, the bell housing was hitting the transmission tunnel. Marked where it needed to be "massaged", made a cut and grabbed the BFH

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Before

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After

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After I moved the tunnel a bit it was pretty close to the gas pedal, so I made a bracket and moved it.

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Then I started on the cross member.

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Decided I wanted to use RivNuts to attach the cross member. Using them because if thread gets messed up, at least I could remove the RivNut and install a new one. Unlike if I just drilled and tapped the frame. Also I don't have access to the back side of the frame to weld nuts or nut plate.

While getting everything lined up and even making a drill block to make sure the spacing was right and it was perpendicular... The drill still walked on me and the holes weren't where they needed to be! :pissed: Not sure how I was going to fix this. Brain stormed and decided to cut out the 3/16" plate that was welded on to the uni-body for rigidity. I cut out a section right where the cross member would go. Then cut up some 3/16" plate that would fit. Then drilled the holes in the proper locations in my Bridgeport. Then installed the RivNuts, drilled some clearance holes in the uni-body and welded the plates back in. Worked out great!

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Laying down some flux core beads! ha ah

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Welds ground down and cleaned up a bit.

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Discussion Starter #17
Do you have any info on your motor mounts????
The engine mounts I will be using are Brandon Product Group Inc. HR Series P/N 25641-10 (gray 420lbs rating). A member on here moneypit_k5 had done a 4bd1t swap in his Cherokee and told me that I would need some very compact mounts, as I will not have much room to work with, and he was right! So he suggested I use the same ones. I believe that part number is the exact one he had used and he had said they did a good job dampening the vibrations. What's nice is they sell multiple "hardness" so if these are to rigid I can order "softer" ones and smooth things out.

Here is the link to the mounts I will be using. http://www.bpg-inc.com/hr_mounts.htm They were $26.78 each and it was about $8 for shipping.

On a side note: I called BPG Inc up told them what I was working on, the guy was very polite and helpful. But when I was asking for his suggestions on the application and questioned him about natural frequency he wasn't able to help much. Good people to do business with.

Now starts probably the hardest part of this swap... making the engine mount brackets!
 

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Hey check your pms. Just might be christmas early at your house.


A side note on those mounts, they do not like being mounted at an angle. eventually, they will settle towards the bottom. best to run them flat, though I have no idea how you could do that.
 

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Hey Great work on that crossmember!

I see you also clearanced your tunnel by the gas pedal. Youd be smart to move the pedal over about 1" while carpet is out. it makes for very uncomfortable driving with the pedal rubbing the carpet. ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A side note on those mounts, they do not like being mounted at an angle. eventually, they will settle towards the bottom. best to run them flat, though I have no idea how you could do that.
Yeah they didn't look like they would do well with a radial load, so I plan to use them flat. Its going to be interesting trying to find out a way to make it work out, but going to push through and see what happens.

Hey Great work on that crossmember!

I see you also clearanced your tunnel by the gas pedal. Youd be smart to move the pedal over about 1" while carpet is out. it makes for very uncomfortable driving with the pedal rubbing the carpet. ask me how I know.
Thanks, I am pretty happy with the way the cross member turned out

Picture 4 and 5 on Post #14 show the pedal relocation bracket I made. Hope it will be enough. It has more clearance to the tunnel then it did factory.
 
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