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He has a A50 TCM

Dale
 
As kind of an update for the Caterpillar TPS situation on the two sensors I posted part numbers for. The original part number sensor I posted is a 2661466 and costs around $100, the connector for this style sensor is a 1552260 and takes 3 9W0844 pins that crimp onto your wires and insert into the connector. This sensor rotates the same direction as the VE rotary pump throttle shaft does when its mounted on top of that shaft, the same way Dodge mounted them on automatic equiped diesel trucks of the 89-93 vintage.
The cheaper sensor I posted 2691983 costs about $40, the connector for this style sensor is a 2304013 and takes 3 9W0844 pins that crimp onto your wires and inserts into the connector. This sensor rotates OPPOSITE the direction of the pump shaft, which means you can't mount it on the pump like the Dodge trucks did, but you can mount it on the pedal or throttle linkage in the appropriate place.
Hope this helps out you guys, I've had several inquiries about plugs for these sensors, I should have posted the part numbers for the connectors when I put up the sensor numbers.
On the voltage regulation side of things for the output of these sensors, there's a cheap and easy alternative available from Radio Shack. Their part number 276-1770 is for a LM7805C transistor rated at 1 amp. It has 3 legs to be wired as follows, Vin is wired to the output of the TPS (signal wire), ground pin goes to ground (or tie into ground wire from the TPS), and the Vout pin would then go to the TPS input on the TCM. This little transistor is a 5 volt regulator in one package, easy hook up, costs about $1.99, compact enough to mount anywhere, rated to more than 3 times actual current draw of the TPS (plenty of safety). -Chuck
 
Cool info on the TPS sensors! I used a 97 Cummins tps on mine, just the potentiometer type ( I am using a medium duty A50 TCU so it works). The throttle shaft on my detroit turns very little, maybe 20 deg, and I wanted to mount the sensor on top of it. So what I did was power it with 12v instead of 5v to give it a quicker voltage rise to rotation ratio, but that raised the idle output to about 30% in EFI. so I added a 1.2V zener to drop the voltage coming out of the TPS to 0 at idle, and now I have a perfect 0 to 100% sweep in EFI with the range of motion I have on my throttle shaft. My allsion man also told me the the inputs are safe to a nominal 12v, so I didn't add a clamping diode, but you could.

Another thing that happened is my TC lockup mysteriously started working after trying to pull the calibration with EFI, which I cannot currently do, as EFI does not have the OS in the TCU mapped out.

As of now, I have working: tow/haul mode, 6th gear cancel, TC lockup at about 15mph (just after 2nd gear) good kickdown operation(TPS), and just a really nice shifting transmission. I have not looked into tapshift, I think it may work after some of the reading I have done on MD tcms but I'm not sure. The ranges available on the shifter are 1,2-3,4-5,6,N,R,P. Dale had told me that I could probably grind an indentation in the shift detent in between the existing ones to get 1,2,3,4,5,6, I may try holding it in those positions and watching the selected gear in EFI to see if that will work.
 
I joined today, and I am sure that this has been asked before, and answered repeatedly, but I cant find the answer. So here it goes- I have a 1979 K-30 w/ 454 and sm465. I have all the power I could ever need, but I cant seem to keep gas in the tank. I routinely get 5-8 mpg. So I want a 12v Cummins, and want the Allison 1000. I have 2 questions:

1.) I saw at the beginning of the thread on t-cases, basically there is no hope of adapting a Chevy np205 to the Allison. Is this correct?

2.) I want to have the gear selector for the Allison work off of a column shift, is that a possibility, or would I have to get the aftermarket floor shift? Hoping to tie it in to the column, I would like to keep this truck looking as original as possible. Even if it costs more...

Any help would be great. I have seen conversions of similar year models, but they used the floor shifter. Just want as much info as possible before I get too deep and find I went in the wrong direction to start off with...
 
You could keep the column shift, but would probably have to play with the ratio of the lever on the trans to get full movement. And you would also have to re-letter the gear indicator to rean P R N 6 4 2 1.

I dunno about t-cases, anythig can be adapted to anything with the right tools/shop, but you are probably stuck with whaterver chevy uses behind the dmax without making parts. is it the np231? I can't remember.
 
Thanks ShaferDiesel, I have looked around on the web, I'm probably not putting in the correct info, or dont know what I'm looking at when I get the search results. Can you give me a heads up on a shop that can build the adapter(s) that I need? I guess it would help if I actually took apart the d-train, but once I get it down I dont want to put it back together with the same components. I'm sure taking down the 205 I have is a must so that I can check out the spline input and bolt pattern, I think the spline count for a sm465 is 10? Not sure, but its obvious that someone played around with the truck a bit before I owned it, judging by the fan shroud for a small block that is barely clearing the fan and block components on the 454. I just know me, and patience is not a strong point. If I tear this truck apart and THEN get the parts and have any sort of wait time, with my work schedule (or lack thereof) I'm afraid it will just sit. I tried taking it to a local mod-hotrod shop, they turn out REALLY nice work, but the guy tried his best to talk me into an LS-3 motor. Even after repeatedly telling him I have no interest in showing or racing this truck. Not to mention the fuel economy/dependability/ reliability.
 
I don't know of any other shops to recommend, but you send me your allison output shaft and np205 input, and I'll mechine the alli output to match. If you don't have a alli yet, just send your np205 input and I can machine one of my outputs here, and send you the tail housing and output ready to go if you will send me your stock one when you get it.
 
http://www.trailtechfab.com/gallery/main.php This guy is who I got my adapter from to bolt a Dodge 205 onto the Allison. I actually used a figure 8 205 to Getrag 360 adapter since the factory adapter on my 205 (came off a Getrag) would bolt to the Allison, but was clocked flat. He sends you all three parts of the adapter and you put it together how you want and weld it solid. Since it's the same dimensions as the factory adapter, all spline engagements are the same. 4X4 Allison has 29 spline output, same as Dodge 205 input. Or you can change it to whatever you want. Mine ended up being an expensive clocking ring, but I'm happy with the result. -Chuck
 
So, Finally got the Allson2100 mh delivred hre in sweden. It bolted right up on the BT-6 where the AT-545 was Before.
Tcm is dated 2006-05-24 and is a A40 model. It also came with the selector module to put on the dashboard.Missing the
harness for that thou. Would be glad for info on where to get the connectors to that and the shiftermotor on the transmission.
I got a piece of harness on the transmission as well on the Tcm so that we can take care off.Any ideas how to proceed are
welcome and appriciated.Thanks for a great forum. Matz
 
Discussion starter · #551 ·
I have a 1995 Chevy 3500HD with the 4L80E trans with drum bake. This truck came with the 6.5 diesel and 4.63 Dana 80 rear end. I want to repower it with a 12 valve Cummins and an Allison trans. I have found an Allison out of a 2001 GMC 6500 that was coupled to a Cat 3126 diesel. I need a trans with the drum brake on it and this does. Would this be a good option? It has an SAE bell housing although I am unsure which one. Can the Allison handle towing in overdrive in a truck that continually grosses about 30K pounds? If so, would I be better finding a 6 speed or am I looking at a rear gear change? Is the 5 speed any easier integrating into my truck electronic wise that a 6 speed? I have so many questions, I wish I could talk to you! Thank you for your reply!
Allison makes a lot of different models. Is it a 1000, 2000, 2500, 3000? 3000 and bigger are too big for your truck. The 1000, 2000, 2500s are all the same case, but different options (like driveline brakes) and gear ratios. The 1000, 2000, and 2500s can be had with either SAE #2 or SAE #3 bellhousings. SAE #2 will never fit in your truck. SAE #3 will, but firewall mods and/or more body lift may be needed (which I'm assuming you don't have a problem with if you're contemplating a Cummins/Ally swap ;) ) An Ally with the GM bell will be an easy fit, but it requires $1400 worth of adapters from Destroked. Keep in mind that replacement bells (except for the GM bells) are around $500 from Allison, so if you find a smoking deal on a trans but it has the wrong bellhousing you could simply buy the one you want and swap it. Ditto for the tail housings. The biggest deal for a good Ally core is that the planetaries and input drum is in good shape, because those are the real spendy parts.

Allsions do not have GCW limitations in OD. Tnhey can tow their max rated GVW in any gear, continuously. This is thanks to big honkin' gear sets and tons of lube flow. Just make sure you have an ample cooler.

Integration into the electronics is about the same with either a 5 speed or a 6 speed. 5 speeds often were run with analog TPS inputs, while 6 speeds seldom were. I tend to separate TCMs (whether 5 speed or 6 speed) into two categories: those with GM OSes, and those with MD OSes. The GM OSes have the advantage that anyone with EFILive (or possibly HP Tuners - not sure what TCMs HPT tunes) can tune the tables to their hearts content. They also have features like Tow/Haul and Tap Shift (some MD Oses allow these modes as well), and generally much nicer shifting characteristics. On the flip side, they are limited on TPS input modes, ESPEC IALLY 6 speed DMAX TCMs. This is why we use the CAT TPS, which sens out a PWM signal, and we can only use the 8.1 TCM OS on the 6 speeds. A CAN interface module would solve all our woes. Electronically it is easy to build (I already have a preliminary design). It's figuring out GMs CAN packets that would tike time and money to solve. Such a module would allow use of the 2010-up Ally, which would be very cool since they have variable line pressure functionality that would improve fuel economy even further. But I digress...

MEdium duty OSes are an Allison-only deal. On the plus side certain MD OSes allow analog TPS inputs which significantly simplify throttle inputs. As a rule, a MD OS always shifts like a GM OS in T/H mode. That is, when you let off the throttle and coast, it will downshift as appropriate to give engine braking. This can be annoying when you are driving around unloaded. Some MD OSes have "alternate shift schedule" capability which is the same as the T/H functionality on a GM OS. Some even have Tap Shift features. The biggest drawback is that they require Allison DOC software to modify parameters. The issue here is that Allison shops won't touch a swap of any kind. This leaves a couple guys in the US that will mod MD parameters. So , basically it is really inconvenient.

The short answer is: I reccommend a TCM with a GM OS. Either a 5 or 6 speed is fine for you (6 speeds lock out 6th gear in T/H mode, making it a 5 speed anyway).

Anybody know how to get a speed signal from pin 25 on an allison MD tcm?? I've tried every way I can figure, and it just seems dead. Also EFI live will not calibrate my TCM it says TCU Map not supported, so I'm kinda in the dark about what's going on inside and what options may or may not be enabled. Still working on getting my copy of Allison DOC working.
Try pin 18 for a speedo output. That is the pin GM TCMs use, and Id bet its alive on the MD units as well.

As kind of an update for the Caterpillar TPS situation on the two sensors I posted part numbers for. The original part number sensor I posted is a 2661466 and costs around $100, the connector for this style sensor is a 1552260 and takes 3 9W0844 pins that crimp onto your wires and insert into the connector. This sensor rotates the same direction as the VE rotary pump throttle shaft does when its mounted on top of that shaft, the same way Dodge mounted them on automatic equiped diesel trucks of the 89-93 vintage.
The cheaper sensor I posted 2691983 costs about $40, the connector for this style sensor is a 2304013 and takes 3 9W0844 pins that crimp onto your wires and inserts into the connector. This sensor rotates OPPOSITE the direction of the pump shaft, which means you can't mount it on the pump like the Dodge trucks did, but you can mount it on the pedal or throttle linkage in the appropriate place.
Hope this helps out you guys, I've had several inquiries about plugs for these sensors, I should have posted the part numbers for the connectors when I put up the sensor numbers.
On the voltage regulation side of things for the output of these sensors, there's a cheap and easy alternative available from Radio Shack. Their part number 276-1770 is for a LM7805C transistor rated at 1 amp. It has 3 legs to be wired as follows, Vin is wired to the output of the TPS (signal wire), ground pin goes to ground (or tie into ground wire from the TPS), and the Vout pin would then go to the TPS input on the TCM. This little transistor is a 5 volt regulator in one package, easy hook up, costs about $1.99, compact enough to mount anywhere, rated to more than 3 times actual current draw of the TPS (plenty of safety). -Chuck
I don't think you need a voltage regulator. I ran the one you sent me for days on 14.4V to test it. It worked fine, and put out an 8V signal as long as the power voltage was above 8V.

Cool info on the TPS sensors! I used a 97 Cummins tps on mine, just the potentiometer type ( I am using a medium duty A50 TCU so it works). The throttle shaft on my detroit turns very little, maybe 20 deg, and I wanted to mount the sensor on top of it. So what I did was power it with 12v instead of 5v to give it a quicker voltage rise to rotation ratio, but that raised the idle output to about 30% in EFI. so I added a 1.2V zener to drop the voltage coming out of the TPS to 0 at idle, and now I have a perfect 0 to 100% sweep in EFI with the range of motion I have on my throttle shaft. My allsion man also told me the the inputs are safe to a nominal 12v, so I didn't add a clamping diode, but you could.
The clamp diode wasn't intended to protect the TCM. It was to keep the TCM's internal pull-up from applying 12V to the output of the TPS.

I joined today, and I am sure that this has been asked before, and answered repeatedly, but I cant find the answer. So here it goes- I have a 1979 K-30 w/ 454 and sm465. I have all the power I could ever need, but I cant seem to keep gas in the tank. I routinely get 5-8 mpg. So I want a 12v Cummins, and want the Allison 1000. I have 2 questions:

1.) I saw at the beginning of the thread on t-cases, basically there is no hope of adapting a Chevy np205 to the Allison. Is this correct?
Not correct at all. There are a few different ways. Figure 8 205s are a problem child, however. You either need the adapter Dodge used to mare a 205 to the Getrag in their first gen Cummins trucks and redrill a couple holes (good luck - they're unobtanium unless you find a case with one on it, which themselves are about as common as hen's teeth), or have someone machine a custom adapter. You would also need the 29 spline Dodge input (which would require boring your case - or use the Dodge case) and coupling sleeve. Round pattern 205s are somewhat easier, but there you still need a spacer and the Dodge input/sleeve combo. Or a spacer, long 32 spline input, and 32 spline output shaft for the Ally (which has to be custom machined). Or a short 32 spline input, 32 spline output for the Ally, and some notching of the Ally;s output flange to clear the shift rail. Or run a 29 to 31 spline spud shaft. spacer, and 31 spline Ford input. All of this was spelled out in post 24 of this thread.

2.) I want to have the gear selector for the Allison work off of a column shift, is that a possibility, or would I have to get the aftermarket floor shift? Hoping to tie it in to the column, I would like to keep this truck looking as original as possible. Even if it costs more...

Any help would be great. I have seen conversions of similar year models, but they used the floor shifter. Just want as much info as possible before I get too deep and find I went in the wrong direction to start off with...
You could keep the column shift, but would probably have to play with the ratio of the lever on the trans to get full movement. And you would also have to re-letter the gear indicator to rean P R N 6 4 2 1.
The rotation of the Ally shift lever is the same as any other GM trans. With a 6 speed you would have P-R-N-D-M-1. 5 speeds are P-R-N-D-3-2-1. Note that 6 speeds internally have the 7th detent, but it is not a valid mode, so the shifter need to be physically prevented from moving into the 7th detent.

I don't know of any other shops to recommend, but you send me your allison output shaft and np205 input, and I'll mechine the alli output to match. If you don't have a alli yet, just send your np205 input and I can machine one of my outputs here, and send you the tail housing and output ready to go if you will send me your stock one when you get it.
The 10 spline input is a known failure point even behind weak gas engines. You would NEVER want to use it behind a Cummins. He needs to run either the stock Ally 29 spline with the Dodge input/coupler sleeve combo in the 205, or respline the Ally output to 32 spline and run a 32 spline input in the 205. Or the 29-31 spline spud shaft and a 31 spline 205 input. No other 205 input will be durable enough behind a Cummins.

http://www.trailtechfab.com/gallery/main.php This guy is who I got my adapter from to bolt a Dodge 205 onto the Allison. I actually used a figure 8 205 to Getrag 360 adapter since the factory adapter on my 205 (came off a Getrag) would bolt to the Allison, but was clocked flat. He sends you all three parts of the adapter and you put it together how you want and weld it solid. Since it's the same dimensions as the factory adapter, all spline engagements are the same. 4X4 Allison has 29 spline output, same as Dodge 205 input. Or you can change it to whatever you want. Mine ended up being an expensive clocking ring, but I'm happy with the result. -Chuck
Add that to the options in post 24 ;) Keep in mind that the fig. 8 GM cases use a small input bearing that won't fit the Dodge 29 spline input shafts (nor will it fit the 32 or 31 spline inputs). Small-bearing cases can be bored to accept a large bearing by any competent machine shop. Or, find a case that already accepts the large bearing (i.e. from behind a TH400 with the 32 spline input).

esowell337~howards conversions manufactures everything needed to bolt up a dodge np205 TC to a allison tranny...
Not that I saw. They have an adapter to bolt a Dodge 241 to an Allison. In theory that shoudl work for a Dodge 205 that has the Getrag adapter on it, but I'm not 100% on that.
 
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I have an allison 1000 and it is on a duramax that I built. I had the tranny rebuilt and it worked just fine for a few weeks and now it keeps throwing the nsbu. At least I think that's what happening. I will shift it into park or drive and the indicator will dissapear than it goes into limp mode I will replace it and its fine for a few mins than it blows again. I don't have access to a code reader at the moment. And it hasn't been in any mud or water. Any help would be amazing.
 
Discussion starter · #553 ·
Without codes it is almost impossible to diagnose problems on an Ally.. Have someone with a Tech II or EFI Live pull the codes, then post them up in Mike L's Trans Talk on the Duramax Diesel forums. Diagnosing problems on Duramax/Ally combos is his specialty (well, that and building high-power capable Allys.), and you will likely get a quicker answer to your problem.
 
I have a a1000 mated to a np205. I had the output shaft turned down and resplined. Then used a round pattern 205 and made a spacer ring.. Seems to work fine..



I joined today, and I am sure that this has been asked before, and answered repeatedly, but I cant find the answer. So here it goes- I have a 1979 K-30 w/ 454 and sm465. I have all the power I could ever need, but I cant seem to keep gas in the tank. I routinely get 5-8 mpg. So I want a 12v Cummins, and want the Allison 1000. I have 2 questions:

1.) I saw at the beginning of the thread on t-cases, basically there is no hope of adapting a Chevy np205 to the Allison. Is this correct?

2.) I want to have the gear selector for the Allison work off of a column shift, is that a possibility, or would I have to get the aftermarket floor shift? Hoping to tie it in to the column, I would like to keep this truck looking as original as possible. Even if it costs more...

Any help would be great. I have seen conversions of similar year models, but they used the floor shifter. Just want as much info as possible before I get too deep and find I went in the wrong direction to start off with...
 
GREAT Thread!

Many thanks for this thread guys!

I have a classic motor home which is a Dodge M600 chassis with a typical 440 and 727 3 speed powered.
This thing is 31' and it has a big Rockwell rear end with 4.88:1 gears. Talk about a worthless setup with today's gasoline!
A diesel swap was the way to go in my mind with a Cummins 6BT. But to make it fuel efficient you want to hit that target 1800-1900 RPM range at cruise.
I need a transmission that provided the correct OD ratio for my setup. I started looking at Allison transmissions but I found it hard to get good information. I found the Allison 2000 had the right ratios and this board was about the only place I found good info on this transmission baring getting my hand on a factory manual.
 
On a 6 Speed TCM, Pin 65 outputs a 12V (-) you can use to trigger a relay to turn on your reverse lights. Or at least everything I have read suggests that it does. -Chuck
Thanks Chuck. Dale sent me a schematic and you can see the outputs and I figured it was - outputs, but wasn't sure.

On a side not that damn 80 pin connector is very hard to find.
 
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