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Hey Max, your PM is full

Don't have time at the moment to read all 23 pages of this Allison Swap guide. Hoping you are willing to answer what I hope to be a quick question...

I have a Cherokee XJ with the AW4 trans. I wired the 3 shift solenoids to switches so that I can put it in whatever gear I want, whenever I want to (solenoid 1 & 2) and Lock the converter (solenoid 3). This is a great advantage as I am never happy with the way a TCM controls shifting, EVER. Pluses include starting in 2nd gear in 4low to have instant wheel speed when needed... engine braking... blah, blah, blah.

Can this be done with the A1000? I have a 2003 Silverado LSSV (Navy truck). Can I wire solenoids C, D, E, and F to switches to have it do what I want? I realize what was said about needing to shift in order and not being able to skip forward gears, which is fine. Also saw where F is PWM... That be an issue with 100% duty cycle?

Some insight would be greatly appreciated. I will continue to read the thread as I have time.
 
Giving up on my Allison. Can't seem to get local support from the local dealers due to the fact that it isn't a production vehicle. They won't even pull codes out of the TCM for me. Time to find an Eaton and call it a day.
No dealer is going to help you because Allison doesn't recognize repowers. If you look at post #8 you will see the pins for the OBDII or 9 pin for the 5 speed. The info is here you just have to look for it.
 
No dealer is going to help you because Allison doesn't recognize repowers. If you look at post #8 you will see the pins for the OBDII or 9 pin for the 5 speed. The info is here you just have to look for it.
I used the wiring schematics and can't get the OBDII to work for me. Can't seem to figure out what I am doing wrong. I am not one of the people that doesn't read the whole thread. I have been keeping up with this since day one.

Anywho, I did get someone at TransAxle to read the codes. It had a voltage issue at some point. It also read that the output speed sensor was not connected. Also, I was informed again that my TCM cannot be changed due to it's early age. I got home and checked the sensor connection and fixed it. It seems to be functioning properly in my driveway. No more reverse problems. I will post updates when I do more prep to the truck
 
Good deal. So you are able to get the codes through OBDII and you just need something to read them with correct?
My cheap Craftsman scanner won't read anything. I took the TCM to TransAxle and they read/captured/erased the codes.

My biggest issue is myself. I am taking in too much info from too many sources. I know that I don't have my OBDII port wired properly. I forgot the 2nd resistor....I just didn't understand the need for it. After talking with the guy at Transaxle, it makes sense. So I will get the connector and resistor and make it happen.
 
As long as the two data wires are twisted and they ohm out at 120 you should be good to go.
This is where I am getting screwed up. I have three twisted wires, CAN HI, CAN LO, Shield. They terminate at a 4 pin ITT Canon connector, which then has a Y-connector....one side of the Y has a 120ohm resistor, the other side is an open 4 pin that I assume would connect to the donor truck cab diagnostic port with another resistor on that end? I can purchase all of the connectors and resistors, I'm just not quite clear on how it all goes together.


The twisted trio of wires come out of the TCM and ends in this Y-connector with the resistor. I need to build off of this. Is it just a matter of getting the 4 pin connector and wiring it to the OBDII, or do I need an additional resistor somewhere?


 
Is that cylinder with the green cap the resistor? I would just cut that connector off and wire in an OBDII connector. Leave enough wire on it in case you want to reuse that funky connector. When you cut the wires do a continuity test to see if you have 120 ohms across the HI and LOW. If not it's just as simple to just put a 120 resistor between the two.
 
Is that cylinder with the green cap the resistor? I would just cut that connector off and wire in an OBDII connector. Leave enough wire on it in case you want to reuse that funky connector. When you cut the wires do a continuity test to see if you have 120 ohms across the HI and LOW. If not it's just as simple to just put a 120 resistor between the two.
Yessir, the green cap device is the resistor. I did cut that connector off and wired it to the OBDII. I will check continuity tonight.
 
unless i am wrong, if you put two 120 ohm resistors in parallel you get 60 ohms... if you put them in series you get 220.. so , if you are supposed to have two in parallel you would get a reading of 60.
at least thats how i think electricity / resistors work... im sure someone will correct me if im wrong...
 
haven't had a chance to check. I have been busy trying to get vacuum to the brakes. The trans service light isn't coming on, so I will just take it for a road test once the brakes work and figure out the OBDII at a later date.
 
the odbII plug and the 9pin are intended for different protocols, MD ( medium duty ) applications use the 9 pin j1939 protocol, a odbII reader will not work, for that you need the allison doc program and a protocol converter.
i just got my 5 speed up and running, took me 5 days to sort out the wiring,a few of those was trying to understand why my odbII would not read codes...
i go a dearborn protocol converter and allison doc and all is good now..
thrilled with the result, printed all the pages with wiring from the allison manual and wired accordingly. drives, shifts, lockup, downshift..etc... all flawless.
 
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