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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #1
How's it going everybody? So back in November I purchased a 98 Chevy K3500 Crew Cab that had a 4BT swap already done to it.
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The truck originally came from TX (don't know if the swap was done there or not) so the body was rust free. Being from New England it's a rare find to have no rust. Seemed like a great truck! Truck ran good. Oil was old but not bad. The body and interior were mint! So I bought it.! It needed a few cosmetic stuff to make it pass inspection but that was it. Also needed a new serp belt which is no big deal.

When I went to change the belt though that were the snowball starts. The whole bracket system was crooked causing the belts to burn up. So I ordered that bracket setup from Diesel Conversions amoung other parts and waited for it to all come in.

I drove it on a few short trips around town while I waited for the parts to arrive and then the injection pump decided to shit the bad one day and leave me stranded.

Towed the truck to work and ended up pulling the engine out of the truck and pulled the head off. That's were I found a blown head gasket, foam to cover up the head gasket leak, some piston slappage, and wiped out bearings.
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And now the build starts.
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #2
So I ripped down the engine and stripped the old crappy paint off.
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Set the engine up on a engine stand. Primed and painted the engine block.
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Waiting to order the rest of the parts to put the engine together and in the truck.
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Gotta admit, I figured the hell would have stemmed from the Chevy parts, not the Cummins.
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #5
That sucks on the buy.... but when your done you'll have a nice motor with no questions on how it has been taken care of.

Cj
That's one of the things that kept me going with the build. It'll be basically brand new and I know everything that went into it. Starting from the ground up.
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #7
1) So step one of the project list is to get a new crankshaft. I've been looking online alot for them and have decided to take my chances with a crank from ebay.
2) Get a full rebuild kit with new pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets.
3) New Camshaft, tappets, and push rods. Was originally looking at Hamilton Cams but am leaning towards the Stage 3 Colt Cam.
4) Assemble the rest of the engine with new oil pump, ProMaxx head, 12v manifold, ARP studs, and upgraded VE pump from dieseltuff
5) Haven't quite figured out what I'm doing for injectors or a turbo setup. Mainly because I'd like to do a compound setup but I'm on a bit of a time constraint. A water cooled intercooler is a definite purchase.
6) The truck had a baumann controller installed for the 4L80E but I don't trust the rat nest and hack job of a wiring harness that's in the truck. So I was looking at doing the whole Compushift setup and just start from new.

There may be some other things that I've forgotten but I'll cover it as I go along.
 

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If you haven't already bought your rebuild kit I'd call up Power Driven Diesel and ask about their new "door slammer" engine kits. Awesome kit, sweet pricing, and top notch customer service.
 

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We live and learn. I always tell people the only good running used 4bt is one that come with a warranty. You're not the first to find a somewhat good looking engine only to find it's crap. On the injectors, a lot depends on where you're headed with the power. Stock units were 4x012 with 155 deg spray angle and can go a bit north of 200 HP. About the largest you want to go with a VE pump would be 5x.012. Member Eggman is running those on his twin turbo 4bt. Just be careful that the injector body and pop pressure are for a VE pump.
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #12
If you haven't already bought your rebuild kit I'd call up Power Driven Diesel and ask about their new "door slammer" engine kits. Awesome kit, sweet pricing, and top notch customer service.
I contacted them and unfortunately they said that kit is not available ?

We live and learn. I always tell people the only good running used 4bt is one that come with a warranty. You're not the first to find a somewhat good looking engine only to find it's crap. On the injectors, a lot depends on where you're headed with the power. Stock units were 4x012 with 155 deg spray angle and can go a bit north of 200 HP. About the largest you want to go with a VE pump would be 5x.012. Member Eggman is running those on his twin turbo 4bt. Just be careful that the injector body and pop pressure are for a VE pump.
That's what I'm gonna run is the 5x.012. Frobeen reading it's a fairly common on a lot of setups. I was going to get DDP but after I read a few threads about there quality I'm gonna go with SAC

Around these parts we call that an "Aerosol Overhaul".

Sucks man. Kudos for just getting back up and tearing into it.
Can't cry over spilt milk lol Atleast I'll have peace of mind now and get years out of the engine
 

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Sorry about your problems. When I saw the down pipe was wondering what else. Someone just took a high mileage runner threw it in thinking diesels run forever.

Look at this way that you were not on the other side of the country when shit the fan.

Nothing like having a good rebuild behind you...

By the great looking shop you are working in.
 

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On the injectors, just be sure they have the correct pop pressure and body for the VE pump. Original head on those engines probably had injectors with 9mm tips but new ones will be 7mm. If you're replacing the head that probably won't matter since any new one should be 7mm. Might also check with member Nascarmark. He sells injectors. Member CrewCab59 does too.
 

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Some here might remember when I rebuilt my "purchase from hell" My machinist couldn't believe I didn't spin a bearing trying to get home pulling my 24' fully loaded toyhauler. I testament to the 6bt. I spent most of the trip home hanging out the window to avoid breathing blowby in that E350.
But after the rebuild two years later, I went straight back to monarch pass and conquered it! The satisfaction and achievement I felt as I blasted up that 7% grade in 2nd gear, compared to the first time in 1st with smoke rolling out of the dash 1000 miles from home, still gives me adrenaline rush's and goosebumps. And I owe all that to the kind folks here at 4btswaps. Thanks again people..
I sold that van and bought what I should have, a clean low mile 97 2500 4x4 5spd with 3.54 gears which actually fits in my garage. But I think I'd better replace the head gasket, because had I done that with the van none of that would have happened.

Take your time and do it right, it's worth it.
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #16
Engine block was sent out the other day to get bored and decked a little. I had excessive ring gap so it'll get bored to 20 over. Also have to send the new crankshaft and camshaft there to get the gears installed.

A lot of the parts I needed to get the engine go again have came in just waiting on a few others. I ended up going with SAC 5x.012 injectors with 145 degree spray. Didn't end up getting the marine bowled pistons but the stock sized should be fine. Also upgraded to the Hamilton 188/220 instead of there smaller size due to availability.

One thing I'm still working on finding info on is if I actually have to machine the rocker arm pedestals for the ARP studs or if I can get away with leaving them.

Big thanks to the people at Pure Diesel! Y'all are awesome!
 

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Sounds like you're coming along nicely. On the studs, you will need to machine the rocker pedestals for those so the stock valve covers will fit. Not a major operation. Member Eggman can tell you about that. He's a machinist and does that job very reasonable. If you disassemble the pedestals it's a lot cheaper to do since most of the time in the work is taking the rocker arms off to do the machining. I believe some of the aftermarket valve covers will clear without that operation, but they will cost more than the work. I believe just the pedestals can be shipped in one of the small USPS flat rate boxes which costs $8.30. I've had Steve do work for me before and he did a first class job.
 

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I had the rocker pedestals machined for head studs on my 6BT. After the machining and with the valve cover gasket, the tip of the studs cleared the valve covers. Without the gasket, the tip of the studs made very slight contact with the cast in reinforcement ribs on the bottom side of the valve covers. I wasn't comfortable with that, so I polished off a small portion of the reinforcement rib with a round ended rotary file.
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #19
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Had the truck towed home for work so I could do some other stuff to it while this quarantine is going on. Wanted to get the wiring straightened out and cleaned up.

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Pulled the engine harness and the Baumann Controller wiring from the truck.

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Separated the harness and started removing old tape and crusty wiring looms. I may of got in over my head though with the mess the previous owner left me. Miscellaneous wires that are cut and wired into other wires. It's a mess. Finding information on what wires I can remove has been a difficult task as well.

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