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Had the truck towed home for work so I could do some other stuff to it while this quarantine is going on. Wanted to get the wiring straightened out and cleaned up.

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Pulled the engine harness and the Baumann Controller wiring from the truck.

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Separated the harness and started removing old tape and crusty wiring looms. I may of got in over my head though with the mess the previous owner left me. Miscellaneous wires that are cut and wired into other wires. It's a mess. Finding information on what wires I can remove has been a difficult task as well.

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Looks familiar it's only 5 or 6 months since I did my 96. One of the best places to find wiring diagrams was AutoZone website, enter your vehicle then go to repair helps, then wiring diagrams. Actually wasn't to bad but just sit down and do it in one shot and don't get sidetracked unless you don't lose your train of thought as easy as I do.
To make for a clean factory look I started at the ecm and pulled everything I didn't need and completely removed those wires, there's not all that many left once you're done.
Can't really help with the 4l80e wiring tho as I used the nv4500.
Have fun.
Glendon
 

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1998 Chevrolet K3500 w/ 1993 4BTA w/ 4L80E.
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Discussion Starter #22
Looks familiar it's only 5 or 6 months since I did my 96. One of the best places to find wiring diagrams was AutoZone website, enter your vehicle then go to repair helps, then wiring diagrams. Actually wasn't to bad but just sit down and do it in one shot and don't get sidetracked unless you don't lose your train of thought as easy as I do.
To make for a clean factory look I started at the ecm and pulled everything I didn't need and completely removed those wires, there's not all that many left once you're done.
Can't really help with the 4l80e wiring tho as I used the nv4500.
Have fun.
Glendon
Took your advise and checked out Autozone for wiring diagrams. Ended up finding another site that had the full pin layout to the ecu. Sat down and went through everything. Found out a few surprises like the full A/C wiring was all cut so I plan on repairing them at a later date.

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Looks a lot cleaner than it did originally. Still have to button up where the run. Took the chance to clean up the firewall and give it a fresh coat of paint. Also mounted the remote oil filter bracket.

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127890
 

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Now that you mention it I remember that site being a huge help as well. Engine bay is looking good?, so much more enjoyable to work in that way! IMG_20200418_125023759.jpg
 
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Ordered up the intercooler piping kit and the water to air intercooler. 3in all the way around. Also painted a few parts. Should look good all together with the white, black, and green engine.

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I dropped the fuel tank just to see if it was actually the stock gas tank from the 454 and it was. So I ordered a new fuel tank for the 6.5 and a sending unit as well. Installed AN fittings on the sending unit and rigged up the new fuel hoses.
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Waiting on a few more parts this week like a 12v exhaust manifold for me to chop up and for the engine to be done at the machine shop. Then its time to assemble.
 

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Now that you've got the engine bay all nice and clean, might think on installing some sound proofing on it. If the noise level didn't bother you then you don't have to do it. You can also put some on the inside of the hood if it doesn't have any. I assume you have a second radiator for the intercooler. Most of those air/water units have a fairly small radiator. That would be one area where bigger is better. The new Ford 6.7 uses an air/water setup and the second radiator is huge. It's over 4 feet wide and about 2 inches thick. Also, that radiator needs to be out front for maximum effect.
 

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Actually these late OBS Chevy's are pretty well insulated except for the cab roof.
 
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Now that you've got the engine bay all nice and clean, might think on installing some sound proofing on it. If the noise level didn't bother you then you don't have to do it. You can also put some on the inside of the hood if it doesn't have any. I assume you have a second radiator for the intercooler. Most of those air/water units have a fairly small radiator. That would be one area where bigger is better. The new Ford 6.7 uses an air/water setup and the second radiator is huge. It's over 4 feet wide and about 2 inches thick. Also, that radiator needs to be out front for maximum effect.
I plan on ordering a small radiator and fan for the intercooler along with a electric water pump. Just haven't ordered it yet. I shouldn't have any issues with temps being too high though.

The noise of the engine was never much of an issue for me. The tires were louder than anything on the truck. Even with a side exit exhaust. Those will be getting changed as well to something more highway friendly.
 

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On the intercooler radiator, make it as big as you can. With any significant amount of boost, the air temp coming off the turbo can be 300 deg F or a tad more. Down right hot. That the reason the hose parts are silicone rubber that can stand up to 500 deg F. The circulating pump found on the Ford supercharged mustangs is one many people use. The new Ford 6.7 uses a belt driven water pump but you really don't have a place for that. With a bit of engineering you could possibly use it. Here's a photo of one.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Would something like this be good for a radiator setup? This is what I was originally thinking about using.


This is also the pump setup I was looking into getting

 

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The problem with many of the heat exchangers you find is they are being used on gas engines. Different animal than diesels. A lot will depend on how much power you plan on. That small radiator may be OK for up to 200 HP but I'm just guessing. The one on the Ford 6.7 is roughly 6 times that big but that engine is pushing 450 HP. It would be nicer if it were about twice that big. Are there any heat exchange numbers available? Are the cooling fans going to run constantly or just when the engine is under boost?
 

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The problem with many of the heat exchangers you find is they are being used on gas engines. Different animal than diesels. A lot will depend on how much power you plan on. That small radiator may be OK for up to 200 HP but I'm just guessing. The one on the Ford 6.7 is roughly 6 times that big but that engine is pushing 450 HP. It would be nicer if it were about twice that big. Are there any heat exchange numbers available? Are the cooling fans going to run constantly or just when the engine is under boost?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Honestly I haven't set a goal for power. The main goal was to get this engine going again while upgrading everything in the process. I'm sure with what I have in the engine I'll have atleast 200hp.

The issue I'm looking at right now with getting a longer heat exchanger is room. Since I'm not using the A/C system at the moment I could remove the condenser to make room for something bigger, and just worry about it later.

If I did get that setup I showed the fans would be connected to a temp switch in the intercoolers coolant system. Considering the amount of driving i do to and from work they may run constantly. I'm honestly not sure.
 

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As you will find out, boost level from the turbo will be pretty mild in normal driving. Out on the highway when you're just cruising the boost may only be 6-8 PSI. It's when you're stressing the engine in harder pulls that the boost kicks in. In a 200 HP level you can see boost in the 20-30 PSI range. That's when the heat level goes up.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
As you will find out, boost level from the turbo will be pretty mild in normal driving. Out on the highway when you're just cruising the boost may only be 6-8 PSI. It's when you're stressing the engine in harder pulls that the boost kicks in. In a 200 HP level you can see boost in the 20-30 PSI range. That's when the heat level goes up.
Charr, I took your advice and sourced out a larger radiator for the intercooler. I found one that's 25×16×2. It was the biggest I could find that would fit the space I have. I removed the A/C condenser and decided to relocate it at a later date. I ordered the Bosch cobra electric water pump and a 16in fan for the radiator. I believe i shouldn't have an issue with cooling now. Just waiting for the packages to show up.

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Also kind of test fitted the intercooler in a spot that I think will work out perfectly.

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You show a photo of a cut down exhaust manifold but no explanation. I don't see a hole for the EGT probe. That is one accessory gauge that is pretty much mandatory on a turbo diesel. The other is the boost gauge. There are a couple others that can be beneficial but those 2 are a must.
 

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You show a photo of a cut down exhaust manifold but no explanation. I don't see a hole for the EGT probe. That is one accessory gauge that is pretty much mandatory on a turbo diesel. The other is the boost gauge. There are a couple others that can be beneficial but those 2 are a must.
That was a mistake. Didn't mean to post that picture yet. I already have a EGT probe for the exhaust. It was originally located on the old downpipe and thats where I'm mounting it again. I've got a boost gauge, egt, and fuel pressure all located on my pillar.
 

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Just remember that EGT after the turbo will read at least 200 deg F lower than before the turbo. After the turbo is where Cummins recommends the probe but most put it in front of the turbo. Figure out what you consider a safe maximum and subtract 200. Cummins recommends a pre turbo number of 900-1100 deg F although under full load it may climb to 1300 deg. Don't want to run that high for any extended period. Aluminum melts at 1221 deg F. That the reason they keep their max at 1100 which would be very safe. Their after turbo number is 700-900 deg in normal operation.
 
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