throttle linkage pictures?
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I used the stock Ford throttle cable. Then, I took a 1/4 inch bolt and welded a small tab at 90 degrees on it's side. I stuck the tab into the hole in the throttle cable end and heat-shrunk it together. I then added a ball pivot end which bolts to the VE throttle arm. The mounting bracket is the stock Ford throttle bracket that was modified.
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Autozone had a universal kit that had the right ends and looks like braded hose( it was with all the chrome stuff). It was 25 bucks, and I was amazed at how well it worked... I will post a pic later
The Dodge VE pump throttle lever has a ball joint stud on it. From the throttle lever ball (vertical) to a bell crank ball (horizontal) is a throttle rod with ball end connectors. One end is right hand thread and the other is left. The purpose is for adjustability, Idle speed and automatic transmission throttle valve adjustment as well as optimal throttle travel. The cable has the stud quick disconnect and is connected to the bell crank ball. This whole bracket would solve a lot of headaches if your engine doesn't have one, TV valve and cruise control provision on it. Ebay for a used one or Cummins also has them last I checked. I could dig up the P/N's for the bracket(s), rod/ends, lever and bushings if someone would find it helpful. I photo of this assy would probably be worth the thousand words...
Cable end info FWIW,
The 89' Dodge Cummins throttle cable at one point was obsoleted, I needed one so I rebuilt the one I had. The outer sheath was fine so I bought a cable assy. from Napa that was longer than the old one(Dodge Motorhome), cut the end off and fed it into the old cable housing. Then I purchased a couple items for Control Cables, controlcables.com.
I used a threaded cable collet end for 1/16" cable, http://www.controlcables.com/catalog/NoFrayRod.jpg. And that threaded into a ball joint quick disconnect, http://www.controlcables.com/catalog/403-003.jpg
This ended up having more adjustment than the OEM set-up which allows for optimal throttle travel, a very common "problem" often overlooked when low power is the complaint. Much better and much cheaper.
Cable end info FWIW,
The 89' Dodge Cummins throttle cable at one point was obsoleted, I needed one so I rebuilt the one I had. The outer sheath was fine so I bought a cable assy. from Napa that was longer than the old one(Dodge Motorhome), cut the end off and fed it into the old cable housing. Then I purchased a couple items for Control Cables, controlcables.com.
I used a threaded cable collet end for 1/16" cable, http://www.controlcables.com/catalog/NoFrayRod.jpg. And that threaded into a ball joint quick disconnect, http://www.controlcables.com/catalog/403-003.jpg
This ended up having more adjustment than the OEM set-up which allows for optimal throttle travel, a very common "problem" often overlooked when low power is the complaint. Much better and much cheaper.
Please
I have one.
I have a 6BT in a '93 2500 that has a few gears in the trans stripped. The engine hasn't run in several years, but was supposed to run well when parked. I need to get it cleaned up and take a video of it running so I can sell it on eBay. I am definitely keeping the vac/PS pump combo and H1C turbo from it, though. I think the Vac/PS will fit my 4BT OK.
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Looks like you have solved your own problem but heres mine as per your request:
First pic is stock van hookup at the pump,
#2 is where cable sheath ends at back of engine, I shortened the sheath to
end at this location, custom bracket to secure end of sheath,
#3 doesnt show a lot but I heated the factory ford throttle rod that comes
through the firewall at about 6" from the top and bent it over about 3". Kind
of lines up with the corner of the engine. Cut the cable appropriate length
for full throttle actuation, thread cable through the bushing in the top of
the rod and crimp aluminum tab to secure. You can find small brass fixture
at the parts store that clamps with allen head screw to use in place of
crimped alum tab.
First pic is stock van hookup at the pump,
#2 is where cable sheath ends at back of engine, I shortened the sheath to
end at this location, custom bracket to secure end of sheath,
#3 doesnt show a lot but I heated the factory ford throttle rod that comes
through the firewall at about 6" from the top and bent it over about 3". Kind
of lines up with the corner of the engine. Cut the cable appropriate length
for full throttle actuation, thread cable through the bushing in the top of
the rod and crimp aluminum tab to secure. You can find small brass fixture
at the parts store that clamps with allen head screw to use in place of
crimped alum tab.
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Carl's photo #1 is virtually identical to my setup. I used the stock Chevy P-30 Grumann/Olsen stepvan throttle pedal assembly, and supposedly the replacement cables are common to many Chevy cars and trucks. The stock P-30 engine linkage is exactly like Carl shows. Interesting too, the stock P-30 throttle pedal assembly had an adjustable micro-switch to trigger the kickdown solenoid for passing gear in the TH475 tranny. I may be using that for triggering water/methanol injection in the future
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