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Discussion Starter #1
so my bt is all ready to be started every thing is wired right i think? is there a ground suppose to be on the battery i turn the key and it clicks like the battery is dead or something. what could be the matter?
 

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You do have the ground strap that links the engine to the frame attached right? Not much experience on the 4bt, but I know it makes a difference on gassers. If you don't you won't be able to move enough current through whatever ground you happen to have made on accident.
 

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Sound like a bad connection .
Battery neg to the engine block ,block to frame .I use welding cable and welding lugs .Make sure on your positive has good clean connection @ the starter and @ battery.

let us know.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #8
their is a hole in the intake system for my boost gauge that is not hooked up that is why it is running a lil off sound aswell as it hasnt been started for a year or longer
 

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It looks and sounds like you are running on three cylinders,it shakes,sounds and responds as if somethings off.
Good work,just see what's not right.
Sergio.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
once i get that intake secured it will not look to be vibrating so much the intake makes it look like an optical illusion that it is vibrating like crazy when in reality it isnt i will try to post another vid up soon. I had a cummins mechanic and myself working on it and everything sounds up to par
 

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Just have to ask - whats with the latex/nitrile gloves?:confused:
I can't speak for him but after many years of exposing my hands to oil, gasoline, and the many solvents that go along with the hobby of working on old cars, trucks, motorcycles and guns, my fingers have a strange, undiagnosed(been to dermatologists) skin condition that is unsightly and painful. Getting as little of this stuff on my hands as possible helps out.

In the past I used the nitrile gloves but I've now found out the heavy textured latex are better for me. I'm not talking about the thin latex gloves that are almost useless for working on cars. The ones I've been using are not like the medical type gloves, they are much thicker and as in the description, are textured on the outside. I've tried these types:latex, nitrile, latex/nitrile, and textured latex. The latter has worked out the best for me. They also are the most expensive of the types I've tried but I am able to put on one pair of gloves and not have them tear apart during a single work session. I often am able to reuse them another time or two.

On the video in question, I can imagine that an engine with mounts that are absorbing more of the vibration than others are would appear to vibrate more while less is being transmitted to the chassis.

Ken
 

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In the past guys had to "be tough" when it came to getting their hands filthy out of lack of choice.

But now, with several kinds of high quality thin gloves on the market, I say screw spending 10 minutes scrubbing your hands with a nail brush and lava soap and not succeeding in having clean hands. Heck, even simple cotton knit gloves do wonders for keeping your hands free of grit.
 

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In the past guys had to "be tough" when it came to getting their hands filthy out of lack of choice.

But now, with several kinds of high quality thin gloves on the market, I say screw spending 10 minutes scrubbing your hands with a nail brush and lava soap and not succeeding in having clean hands. Heck, even simple cotton knit gloves do wonders for keeping your hands free of grit.
Not only that, but the latex / rubber / nitrile gloves wash up much faster than hands if you're having to reach in the vehicle, answer the phone, and other situations where you'd not necessarily take 'em off, but need to touch something "clean".
 

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Definately sounds like it missing, but congrats on getting it running. I would figure out what is going on.
 
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