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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm probably going to replace my stock H1C on my truck this weekend and just wanted to know from, those that have upgraded there turbos, whether it's easier to pull the whole exhaust manifold and swap the turbo or to just swap out the turbo in the engine bay.
 

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easier to remove manifold with turbo attached on a 90* down manifold.bounce

but thats just me
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool...that's what I have.
 

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Glad you asked. I need to do the same thing, and planned on doing the entire manifold to fix the leaks around the #3 and 4 ports.

I started putting wax and penetrating oil on the bolt threads a few days ago getting ready for what appears to be a really fun job with the amount of rust on these things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmm...maybe I need to get some extra manifold nuts/bolts just in case.
 

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Hmm...maybe I need to get some extra manifold nuts/bolts just in case.
Wait to see how many you break.. I broke several. Then I got lucky and took them all out with a vise grip..
Bob S posted these part numbers some time ago.
McMaster numbers:
Stud, set up, M10 x 1.5mm pitch x 80mm length, catalog number 93210A041
Nut, hex, zinc plated, M10 x 1.5mm pitch x 17mm width x 8mm height McMaster catalog number 92497A450

Should we go together and order a bunch of these and then just ship them to each other. I am not sure what handling and shipping is from McMaster, but if I recall it's high. One person could order what we all wanted and then repackage. Would it be worth the trouble?? A padded envelope should work to ship them in. Which shipping company would be the cheapest. Probably the US Postal. I need a full set.
 

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:nuke: Yup....I had to pull the head to have them removed and then it was cracked.....be carefull what you start:nuke:

I agree unless you have rusted in place manifold bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh hell...gotta go out and buy a couple more cans of PB Blaster.
 

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try this

Oh hell...gotta go out and buy a couple more cans of PB Blaster.
Ok, squirt your pb on there, or any other penetrant, tap, maybe on the wrench with a small hammer. Then get some Castrol super clean, dribble some on there, tap, tap, let it sit. Sometimes I wash it off and start over, the rust starts washing away.. If it still won't work heat it up and start over. I worked on a Warn winch clutch (for a week here and there) and this is what did the trick.
 

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Wait to see how many you break.. I broke several. Then I got lucky and took them all out with a vise grip..
Bob S posted these part numbers some time ago.
McMaster numbers:
Stud, set up, M10 x 1.5mm pitch x 80mm length, catalog number 93210A041
Nut, hex, zinc plated, M10 x 1.5mm pitch x 17mm width x 8mm height McMaster catalog number 92497A450

Should we go together and order a bunch of these and then just ship them to each other. I am not sure what handling and shipping is from McMaster, but if I recall it's high. One person could order what we all wanted and then repackage. Would it be worth the trouble?? A padded envelope should work to ship them in. Which shipping company would be the cheapest. Probably the US Postal. I need a full set.
Probably not necessary. McMaster isn't into the "shipping business" like the sellers on EPay. I ordered the studs, nuts (std pkg), threaded rod & nuts (std pkg) for making the injector puller the shipping was around $10. If you factor in initial shipping + reshipping it's probably cheaper just to buy them direct.
 
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