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This mount will place the alternator in exactly the same spot as J10Mike's. Might be a tad bit higher. Not sure if you'll need a different length belt. You'll need to measure that when it's all together. One thing you'll need to think on when you get that alternator is wiring. 160 amp is pretty much common for those and that's a heck of a lot more than the OEM 65 amp. Also, you have 2 methods to hook up the alternator. You can run it 1 wire or 3 wire. Lots of arguments as to which is better. Most seem to lean toward the 3 wire setup. That will require a little pig tail plug you can get at most any auto parts store plus some fusible links. Protection is mandatory when dealing with high amp alternators.These alternators normally have a terminal on the back to feed an indicator lamp on the dash. Be advised. If that lamp burns out the alternator will not turn on. Doesn't happen often but the dash lamp in my F250 went out after about 25 years. The alternator shop finally figured out the problem. Took it to the Ford dealer. $3 light bulb and $100 labor. You probably need to think on a heavier gauge charge wire and fusible link. Some guys replace the fusible link with a fuse but they don't have the same value. Probably would need a 200 amp fuse on a 160 amp alternator.
 

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Captbill98 - I have a 2010 JK with the alternator that char1355 referred to. It's not quite installed yet as I'm wrestling with new motor mounts, but only 4 weeks to go. No bolts come with that kit from Tennessee Diesel which was also referred to me from some thread in here. I believe it's a 165 amp 1-wire.
 

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I suspected the Tennessee kit didn't have the bolts. There are a bunch in that setup. I have a complete list of them. I believe I counted 13 total. The 165 amp is pretty much a standard model for those 22si units. The 1 wire or 3 wire hook up is your option. The alternator has the capability for either.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well, to keep up the progress on this: Finally got all the parts--typical in my project "you can't just do one thing--another will arise" And here that would be the oil filter. I ordered a Perma-Cool Oil Filter relocation kit 10756 based on researh from 4BT Swaps (Read: I hope it fits the engine)
127198
 

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It's a pretty good bet that all the engines that had that alternator kit had the vertical oil filter, not the horizontal like the 4bt. All the ones in my industrial catalog that used that were vertical. That Perma Cool kit may be OK but did you notice it uses 2 standard Ford oil filters and not a Cummins diesel filter. 2 filters are fine but you may want to change that threaded insert so you could used Cummins filters. You can get a 3/4"-16 to 1"-16 nipple from Fram or Baldwin and maybe others.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Char, Thanks--I'm worried about the adapter fitting the engine where my oil filter went--I Used a Wix 51602 or Baldwin BT427--It'll be here in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So that adapter did fit the engine (1in x16) but you're right has the 3/4 inch twin Ford remote manifold. I'm wondering since I change my Amsoil Marine Diesel 15W 40 oil every 12 months or 1000 miles anyway (it's not a DD). So the manifold accepts a Wix 51515, is there a big difference in using this Ford style WIX (I can't find a discussion about it online). It is not easy finding a remote adapter manifold with a 1x16 fitting and adapter bushings are like 16.00 each--not a big deal but still wondering about the filter difference..
 

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Yeah, those little adapters are kind of pricey. If you had a friend with a lathe they wouldn't be difficult to make. Since both are 16 thread you only have to set up once. Thread a 1" piece and then step down and thread 3/4". There are a lot of good filters out there and some that might be a bit questionable. The Fleetguard brand which is Cummins are considered a premium unit and with a bit of shopping you can get them pretty reasonable. Most of the difference I know of is the kinds of filter medium used in the units. Even Cummins has standard and premium models. They even have one that incorporates a bypass filter in a single housing with the regular filter. Those aren't exactly cheap. Near $50 last time I looked. One issue that has popped up front time to time is high oil pressure causing a filter to fail. The LF16035 which is the Cummins premium filter has an operating pressure of 120-130 PSI. The bypass valve on the filter plate is set at 65 PSI if it's working correctly. So their filter would stand twice the normal operating pressure. Here's a link to a thread I did a few years back where I built a couple remote systems based on Cummins parts. These weren't exactly cheap. The hoses and fittings were pretty serious money. They were all top end Aeroquip. Remote Oil Filter
 
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