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I was talking with someone else the other day about painting my car and cost. He said that tractor paint is a great way to go, especially because of the price, you just can't beat it! I'm interested to hear what other have to say on this subject as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FWIW, there are a ton of good reviews on Amazon...but, mostly about using it to paint...well, tractors.

I am 100% concerned about ease/safety of use, and long-lasting rust prevention. That leaves about 0% concern for the look. Ha.

A so-called 25 foot paint job would be fine.

Roy
 

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That's exactly what I have heard as well. It's not going to be a show quality, award winning paint job, but it doesn't look terrible at all. I thought about even throwing on clearcoat following it and seeing if that would help even more.

As for longevity/rust prevention, I have nothing really worthwhile to add. My thoughts though are, looking at tractors, and how much they are used, abused, beat up, and sit outside in the elements, usually the paint holds up quite well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"They" say adding the hardener makes all the difference in speed of drying, hardness of the paint, longevity of the shine.

I am not a shiny truck guy, however. I will even consider a flat-finish additive (if I find it does not reduce the life of the paint job).
 

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That would make sense to me. I want something different, and this would do it. I guess we both have some investigating to do, and hopefully someone else will chime in.

Worst case, being it's such a low cost paint, is if it doesn't turn out, sand it down and try again!
 

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I have not used the Valspar but I have used Van Sickle tractor paint from my local Atwoods Farm store to paint a couple of tractors and some equipment. It is very tough and seems to do well at rust prevention. Without the hardener it does sun-fade over time. According to their website the hardener is supposed to prevent that. I have a large truck, 2002 Kodiak c8500, and some equipment that I am going to paint with some brand of tractor paint, with a hardener. Atwoods still carries Van Sickle and Tractor Supply is now carrying Majic brand paint, they use to carry the Valspar. If you aren't worried about a show quality job and need something durable, I would not be afraid to use one of the brands of tractor paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i am the the chrome delete guy as well----i found 2 gallons of military OD at the surplus store----auto paint shop figured out the reducer needed because the directions were lacking---
While I want a white truck, I would be pretty tempted to shoot the GI paint if I ran across it. Nice truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have not used the Valspar but I have used Van Sickle tractor paint from my local Atwoods Farm store to paint a couple of tractors and some equipment. It is very tough and seems to do well at rust prevention. Without the hardener it does sun-fade over time. According to their website the hardener is supposed to prevent that. I have a large truck, 2002 Kodiak c8500, and some equipment that I am going to paint with some brand of tractor paint, with a hardener. Atwoods still carries Van Sickle and Tractor Supply is now carrying Majic brand paint, they use to carry the Valspar. If you aren't worried about a show quality job and need something durable, I would not be afraid to use one of the brands of tractor paint.
On a related subject. If one is shooting a primer and then multiple coats of top coat, do all the coats, including the primer, get the hardener?
 

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I painted my 2000 S-10 in August of 2010 with Valspar Implement Enamel using a El-Cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun. Having painted many trucks and tractors over the years I knew
what to expect. It turned out real nice for a cheap $17.00 a gallon paint job using mineral spirits for thinner. This was my first time using an HVLP gun. I would highly recommend the investment.
Like I said it turned out real nice and after about 2 months the shine was gone just like all the other things I,ve painted with cheap enamel. I was expecting it to dull out so I wasn't surprised.
I have even had some street rod guy's ask me where I got the nice matt finish done. They about **** when I told them because I understand matt paint is pretty pricey.

Anyway you will get what you are after with this paint. A cheap yet durable 10 or 20 foot paint job. I can,t tell you anything about hardeners because I,ve never used them.

About 20 years ago I painted an 89 NPR truck with Rust-O-Leum implement paint and it still looks good minus the shine.

My S-10 is navy blue and my NPR is light gray. Go for it!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
TJ,

Thanks for the excellent report. Unless something odd comes up, I expect to do exactly what you suggest. Valspar and a cheap gun.

Roy
 

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Roy
On a paint related note, for years I was plagued by paint going bad or getting a skin on the top when I resealed a partial can. One of the painters at work suggested that before putting the lid back on a partially used can that I first clean the sealing edges of the can and the cover with solvent making sure they are both clean to get a perfect seal, then before putting the lid on tight to flood the can with nitrogen to displace all the atmosphere in the can with an inert gas then quickly put the cover on tight. I didn't have any nitrogen but I reasoned that any inert gas that is heaver than air would do the same thing so I used the argon from my TIG torch to do the same thing, just held the torch in the air space of the can and let it run for a few seconds at about 25 cfm and put the lid on pronto.

Guess what, it worked! wrote the date on top with a magic marker and two years later went to use the paint and no skin. Been using that tip ever since with good results.

Hope this helps somebody out and saves some paint from going in the landfills.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Jeff,

Thanks for all the good advice. The inert gas is something I've never heard before. I have some MIG 3-gas-mix kicking around

I have some Chassis Saver, and their suggestion is to pour solvent on top of the paint, and not mix it in, to make a partial can last. It forms something of a barrier to the air in the can. They also suggest, closing the can with a plastic bag stretched across the top of the can (then pounding the lid on)...keeps the lid from sticking.

Yes, a clean rim and well-sealed can are musts. I use a lot of contact cement. I buy it in quarts, but store it in a gallon can. I know that means more air, but, I am able to keep the can rim totally cement free, and that makes a really big difference.

Roy
 

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there is a guy that hits the major car shows that sells a couple thousand gallons of paint----a couple years ago i went with 2 hot rod buddies to the tri-state show in denver co---we got there late on the first day and the paint guy was already sold out---i picked up his card--its called hot rod auto paint and he has an ebay store that shows what he has---you may find that he hits shows near you....bob
 

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Roy

Did you ever get your paint job done? I have been looking for an update wondering if you were happy with the result.

Happy New Year.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Roy

Did you ever get your paint job done? I have been looking for an update wondering if you were happy with the result.

Happy New Year.

Jeff


Hey Jeff,

Happy New Year to you, too!

Oh yes, my paint job. Ha. The truth is, my project (1990 F350 6BT) is a long, long, long term project. My goal is to get to painting sheet metal in, get this, the summer of '17!

I did buy a quart each of the Valspar red primmer and IH white top coat. I brushed them on various test parts, with various prep, and they are now outside "testing" in the sun, rain, and snow. Obviously, I have no results to report, but when I do, I will report here. I also have tests of Rust-olum, Chassis Saver, and POR15.

Roy
 

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Hey Jeff,

Happy New Year to you, too!

Oh yes, my paint job. Ha. The truth is, my project (1990 F350 6BT) is a long, long, long term project. My goal is to get to painting sheet metal in, get this, the summer of '17!

I did buy a quart each of the Valspar red primmer and IH white top coat. I brushed them on various test parts, with various prep, and they are now outside "testing" in the sun, rain, and snow. Obviously, I have no results to report, but when I do, I will report here. I also have tests of Rust-olum, Chassis Saver, and POR15.

Roy
We painted a lot of equipment in the field instead of using a brush we used a solvent sprayer,thinned the paint a little and had at it worked surprisingly well and covered quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
We painted a lot of equipment in the field instead of using a brush we used a solvent sprayer,thinned the paint a little and had at it worked surprisingly well and covered quickly.
Thanks. I do have air, and intend to spray the paint when the time comes. My intention is to buy some more of the primer and top coat and experiment spraying it next summer.

Roy
 
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