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On the alignment bushings (dowel pins), back in the 70's I worked for International and it was common for the run out to be out. We pulled the dowels, trued up the housing and bolted it down tight then drilled/reamed the holes and fitted oversize dowels.
Cheers Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #23
On the alignment bushings (dowel pins), back in the 70's I worked for International and it was common for the run out to be out. We pulled the dowels, trued up the housing and bolted it down tight then drilled/reamed the holes and fitted oversize dowels.
Cheers Steve
That is definitely a workable solution. In my case the alignment dowels would need to be hollow for 2 of the bellhousing bolts to pass through. Also would need to use bigger flat washers.

Someone make offset dowels, clutch/flywheel company.

Ed in CO.
I did internet search and could not find where any aftermarket supplier made them for the cummins to dodge getrag, nv 4500 or 5600 application.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is what I came up with.
128440

The metric 12 x 1.25 internal threads made it easy to remove for adjustment and still give clearance for the 3/8" bellhousing bolt to pass through. It takes some time to get it dialed in. I loctited the bushings in the adapter once I was satisfied with the results. The ones I used were machined for a different engine adapter than the one I am using in this project. I was able to get the previous set up to within .0015" runout, this setup with same bushings I got to within .005" runout. I figure it will be good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
95% done with tunnel. Welded, 8hrs of grinding, seam sealed on both side of all welds, primered & painted with 1st layer of RP-342 rust preventative on under side. Next to do is clutch release fork and bearing.
128528


128529



I will install some 80 mil sound deadner before the carpet is put back down.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
A photo of new release fork in comparison with getrag stamped steel. Sockets for ball pivot are in same vertical plane. The forks on new one will need to be extended, and the angles are bent opposite.
128592


Here's a photo of modified new fork in comparison with getrag. I extended the fork area about 3/8" (9.5 mm) and cut, turned arm 180 degrees, welded it back on. It is a little under 1.9 ratio. I welded a hardened 13/16" (20.6 mm) steel ball to a grade 8 bolt to use as a pivot.
128593


I installed the bellhousing temporarily to test the clutch pedal effort and to see if the disc would be released. I was able to push the clutch pedal with my left arm and rotate the spare input shaft that was used to align disc. It worked!! :)

This photo is with bellhousing mounted on trans ready to mount up to engine.
128594


I will install a return spring on clutch fork to pull the release bearing away from pressure plate fingers.
 

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Mack,

Depending on the slave you use it may have an internal spring. At least my Ford slave did. I pull it apart and took the spring out which just barely lets the release bearing slide free of the fingers.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #29
cj,

I agree. I replaced the spring in slave with one of less tension. The return spring will have just enough force to overcome all the resistance for a positive release from pressure plate fingers.

The new driveline uses a larger and different style of carrier bearing than stock.
Here is a photo of the adapter needed to mount carrier bearing to stock bracket. It is a piece of .5" x 2" x 9" (12.7 x 50 x 228 mm) steel drilled and tapped for 1/2 x 13. The old bearing center-line is 3.25" (82.5 mm) to mounting surface and the new one is 2.69" (68.33 mm), a difference of 0.056" (14.2 mm). I'm not going to worry about trying to make up the 0.060" (1.5 mm).

128596


I used loctite red on all the bolts. Got the driveline installed. I'm going to have to keep a close eye on the rubber exhaust mounts and replace as soon as I see problems because there is not much
room betwixt the muffler and u-joint at axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Some more progress on conversion. Bought some Weather-pack connectors to be able to easily unplug the reverse switch, neutral switch, and speedometer signal generator. Spliced in a 12V source for the air comp control master switch. This will be in series with the pressure switch. The pressure switch contacts close at 85 psi (5.8 bar) and opens at 105 psi (7.2 bar). These will operate the main 80 amp air comp relay. I've yet to decide how and where to mount the compressor and reservoir.

I bought and installed some exhaust wrap for the down pipe. I will still need to fab up a heat shield between exhaust and transmission. My vacuum / power steering pump was leaking so I resealed them with the Cummins kit.

The truck is still up on jack-stands, and I wanted to hear it run, so I used shop air to be able to operate the range shift and counter shaft brake. Well it was a bitter-sweet moment. Sweet in that transmission works ok, range shifts when going through neutral, and counter shaft brake seems to be working. Bitter in that the brand new $1000.00 driveline does not run true and is way out of balance so I will be removing it and taking it back to shop that built it. I had it at idle and in first gear and crawled under to take a look. On a straight shaft the carrier bearing rubber does not move around,on mine it seemed that the rubber was waving at me. Before I remove it I will stick a dial indicator on it and record how much runout it has in different areas. I will also measure the yoke angles on trans and axle just to make sure that they are not exceeding the recommended tolerances.
 
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