Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

vacuum booster for brakes?

18K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  Ugene  
#1 ·
is there any way to get vacuum for the booster for for the brakes? i searched the forum but didn't find much.
 
#5 ·
Some vacuum pumps were up by the intake cover on older 4bts but need 8 rib and V-belt combo seen one on Epay not to long ago.
 
#6 ·
vacuum the easy and cheap way

if you looking for vacuum. I have found with a few of my builds that many gasoline 4 cyclinder gm engines came with factory vacuum pump. i have used one on my hot rod and a friends jeep, super easy to set up and mine hold 20" hg within 3 secs. and never drops below 16"hg i used a summit racing vacuum bottle which worked out great...extra volume. I went to the junk yard to get a core, and tested it and it worked fine so it still sits under my rod and works great $30. I planned on buying a reman unit and using the other as a core. but it end up working great
I left the web page for summitracing vacuum can, vacuum pump source, vacuum pump info.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...ng.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1464&N=700+-45701+115&autoview=sku
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=641500
http://www.california.com/~eagle/figs/vacpump/vac.html
 
#8 ·
if you looking for vacuum. I have found with a few of my builds that many gasoline 4 cyclinder gm engines came with factory vacuum pump. i have used one on my hot rod and a friends jeep, super easy to set up and mine hold 20" hg within 3 secs. and never drops below 16"hg i used a summit racing vacuum bottle which worked out great...extra volume. I went to the junk yard to get a core, and tested it and it worked fine so it still sits under my rod and works great $30. I planned on buying a reman unit and using the other as a core. but it end up working great
I left the web page for summitracing vacuum can, vacuum pump source, vacuum pump info.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...ng.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1464&N=700+-45701+115&autoview=sku
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=641500
http://www.california.com/~eagle/figs/vacpump/vac.html
to the junk yard it is, thanks for the info.
 
#9 ·
The vacuum pump that came with my engine is a stand-alone unit that bolts to the intake above the injection pump and runs off of a single v belt. It is for sale, as I am using the vac/PS pump combo from a 93 dodge
 
#12 ·
Their are a couple of vacumn pump options,
1. the v belt pump above the injection, the v belt runs off the water pump.
2. A gear drive pump (only) just below the injection pump (this is what I have)
3. Power steering/vacumn pump combo like the 6bt of the 3/4, 1 ton trucks
4. Electric vacumn pumps as mentioned earlier


I have seen all of these in bread trucks when I went to purchase mine dovebid setup.
Good luck
 
#15 ·
i think i am going with an electric style pump.
I'm curious how it turned out for you. I already have upgraded my brake booster on my Bronco with a dual-diaphragm one off an F350 (I think it was...it was a long time ago), so vacuum-boost has worked fine for me up to now and I am thinking a 12V pump with a canister for more volume would be the simplest way to get my brakes back to full operation. With the added bonus of having full brakes even if the engine isn't running. A good bonus on an off-road play truck, I think.
 
#16 ·
Not sure whether you guys have them over in the us, But here there are a few other options- any of the small isuzu diesels, toyota landcruiser etc. have a vacuum pump on the back of the alternator, all they have is an oil feed line, a drain line back to the sump and a vacuum line. some even have an extra 1/8" (I think) take off for accesories, heater controls etc. Just a different point of view....
 
#18 ·
late '90's, early '00 Audi's have an electric brake vacuum pump as well. There about $100 on Ebay.
 
#24 ·
It explains itself.
Pick the statement apart, read it closer, and get back to me.
Think "Naturally Aspirated".
Mark, you simply have no clue at all. There isn't any restriction in a diesel engine air intake. No venturi, no throttle plate.
"Naturally Aspirated" diesels don't produce even 1" Hg of vacuum. Put a gauge on the intake and tell me what you get as far as vacuum goes.

Is that "picked apart" enough for you, or do I need to explain it in simpler terms for you?
 
#23 ·
Yeah, doesn't that make sense? If you aren't running a turbo, which pressurizes the intake, then the intake will be under vacuum just like a typical gas engine is. You won't have access to High Vacuum that would come under the throttle plate (since their isn't one), but Low Vacuum type accessories would work.

Though I think a brake booster does typically run off the High Vacuum...so better leave the brake booster off the list of accessories you run this way.
 
#25 ·
Yeah, doesn't that make sense? If you aren't running a turbo, which pressurizes the intake, then the intake will be under vacuum just like a typical gas engine is. You won't have access to High Vacuum that would come under the throttle plate (since their isn't one), but Low Vacuum type accessories would work.
It does not make sense. There is no restriction in a diesel engine air intake, whther it is turbo or not.

The amount of vacuum is so small (unless your air filter is totally plugged solid) that you won't have any practical amount of vacuum at all - - not even enough for low-demand accessories. Put a guage on the intake and tell me what amount of vacuum you are seeing.
 
#26 ·
I have seen a fordson power major with a throttle plate but other than that no Diesel I have seen has a throttle plate. No restriction, no Vac. I am surprised than anyone would find it difficult, but we all come from different backrounds. JLK
 
#27 ·
My experience differs from yours.
If there is "no vaccum", tell me why the air filter on an N/A diesel gets dirty?
Majic? Mice playing in the dirt?

Has to be vacuum somewhere.

Even the wide open hole on an intake has to draw some amount of usable vacuum due to flow restriction from the air cleaner, plus the fact that the intake plate's hole is nowhere near to 100% the size of all of the intake ports on an engine.

Mind you, it's "probably" not enough to run a vacuum brake chamber, but there is usable vacuum there.

Mark.
 
#28 ·
Who has a 6BT handy that still has the factory air filter restriction guage intact? The guage has inHg on its scale. Take a look at it and tell me what your truck is running normally at.

What is Cummins Filtration's recommended air filter element change interval?

Cummins Filtration recommends changing air filter elements when they have reached about
80% of the engine manufacturer's maximum allowable restriction. As a general guide, this
ranges from 375 to 500 mm (15-20") of water gauge restriction for naturally aspirated
engines and 500 to 700 mm (20-30") for turbocharged engines.
If 15" is plugged, 5" under normal operation wouldn't surprise me.
 
#31 ·
If 15" is plugged, 5" under normal operation wouldn't surprise me.
I just can't believe the amount of wrong information in this thread.

"Inches?" Inches of what? - Inches of WATER!!!
or Mercury?


15" of water is barely 1" of MERCURY.



InHg (Inches of Mercury) is what standard engine vacuum is measured at on a Gasoline/Carb'd engine.

If you measure 20" of MERCURY on your diesel intake manifold (or even before the turbo) then you are pulling a vacuum TWENTY TIMES WORSE than what a plugged air filter max limit is!

Sooo.... listen closely.

1" Hg (one inch of mercury vacuum) is about 15" of water, and this means you probably have a plugged air filter.
1" Hg is NOT enough to run ANY vacuum accessories, period.
 
#29 ·
If the amount of vacuum was useable, then why is it never used to run anthing, and why not get it between the air filter and turbo on a turbo engine?
 
#30 ·
On most turbocharged cummins engines, the maximum inlet restriction ( as per datasheet) is 10" with a clean filter with medium duty air cleaner, 15" with a HD, and 25" absolute maximum (dirty filter). Typically on ISX07 engines in KW trucks we see in the order of 10, but that's at full load, 1400 or 1800 rpm on the dyno. Under transient (ie actual driving) conditions, the inlet restriction would be negligible and in any case you should be aiming to keep it as close to zero as possible. This will reduce the vacuum on the seals in the turbocharger and maximize your airflow ( and therefore engine performance)
Just my .02