Now you know why the destroked adapters cost so much. Are you going to use a Ford 6.0 diesel starter like they do. That works fine with a Cummins flywheel and they are cheap. I'm using the destroked set up for my Ford f250. Wound up getting the adapter plate, clutch, flywheel, etc for slightly more that the cost of the adapter. Couldn't turn it down. The flywheel is even machined for the Ford pilot bearing. I like thing that are designed to bolt on and actually fit. You have a great project going. Looks like a winner.

 

thanks all for the kind words!

Now you know why the destroked adapters cost so much. Are you going to use a Ford 6.0 diesel starter like they do.

i agree the destroked kits are worth every penny, there are countless hours of measuring/math that go into making somthing like this work. i bought a 6.0 ford starter, and built an aluminum spacer/ adapter for it. getting it in the right spot isnt as easy as i thought. i figured i would measure from crank centerline out to the starter hole center on the factory adapter, but the dodge starter has 13 teeth and the ford has 12... boots (machinist friend) and i were looking over the machinists handbook lastnight at the local juice house and found the recipe for getting it right. also i dont have an engine to bolt stuff to for mock up, but jed http://www.jedsmachining.com has his out of his truck a the moment, but thats at least a 30mi drive. i made the crank seal housing pattern down there, but i hate to bug him too much while hes building T-case doublers.

 

very nice

Nice work on the adapter I like the plasma axe it's one of my
favorite shop tools
keep it up can't wait to see morebounce

 

Fantastic conversion man! I hope mine comes out that good.

 

First off I just wanted to say nice build man! I personally love the look of classic lines and modern/large diameter rims.
Your build was linked to a thread I have on the Cummins Forum by a fellow Cummins swapper.
I'm gonna attempt to fab an adapter plate my self also and was wondering if you had any advice. I am adapting a zf 6 speed to a 12v also and am using a South Bend Clutch and Flyweel. So far I haven't done much except alot of research and good info is hard to find. It seams doable but I'm having trouble calculating plate thickness and crank shaft spacer thickness. If you would be willing to share any info on this It would be greatly appreciated!
I'm also curious how the truck feels going from the 5 gears in the rag to 6 in the zf and how that changes the performance of the Cummins so keep us informed.
:beer:,Ron

 

i answered your question best i could in your thread on cumminsforum. i talked to Peter at south bend clutch, and am getting the conversion clutch as well. part # fordcumminsofe7.36sp

 

Thank's for the info. This was exactly what i was looking for

 

I agree that the guys at Southbend have a great product but they tend to be a bit pricey. I did a lot of searching for a Ford/Cummins clutch set up and went with Valair. They provided a complete kit with Cummins flywheel, 13" clutch and pressure plate, release bearing, and alignment tool. They even machined the flywheel for the Ford pilot bearing at no extra cost. The whole kit was $300 cheaper than Southbend. That's almost enough for a set of head studs for a 4bt.

 

Wow man, I just read through this entire thread and love it. The paint is awesome. I plan do paint mine a gunmetal like the lower half of your truck. . . gonna try to do it myself, we will see how that goes . I am out on deployment in Iraq right now, but when I get home in a month or two I am going to start on my conversion. It is a 1985 Crewcab sierra classic 4x4. has the stock 6.2 diesel in it right now. Got a donor truck, 1995 dodge 3500, ppump engine with 2wd NV4500 which I will mate to a divorced NP205. I really like the fabrication work you did, giving me a lot of ideas. I need to write some stuff down now lol.

I do have a question, What kind of suspension did you use? I am guessing you used something other than stock springs? The weight of the cummins is like double that of a SBC or diesel or whatever was in there before.

Did you ever get AC hooked up? This is something I am worried about making work.

I will be making a thread on here, hopefully you will chime in with pointers!

 

up front im using regular 4in. lift springs. the added weight squatted it down maybe an inch and rides smoother than with the sbc. the ac wont be getting hooked up, im going to cut part of the heater box off (HINT!) to make room for the next project.

 

compounds,bounce

 

Is there not a way to fit the AC with a compound setup?

Also, are the leaf springs different for the 1 ton trucks compared to the 3/4 and 1/2 ton. . . other than weight rating? I am trying to find front springs for the truck, but everything I am finding seems to be listed for 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton trucks. . . I want to find something for a decent price as well.

Sorry for all the questions.

 

Is there not a way to fit the AC with a compound setup?.

You could always use one of the nostaglia ac units that mounts everything under the dash. Just have to plumb the hoses. You could mount the ac compressor beside #1 and 2 valve cover on the driver's side. Then you'd have most of the passenger's side empty for turbos. Where there is will there is a way.

 

Question for ya, you mentioned you had a parking brake in the works, did you ever get it hooked up?? I have the same problem, i swapped to the disc too. I was thinking about going with line locks, but i don't think they work for long periods of time and draw power while on, and i don't know if that would be bad for the caliper..

 

i went with one of these bad boys.

the best price i found was here http://sardesonracing.com/page%20047.htm
its installed in the rear line right after the brake master, which worked really good on accident. when you mash the peddle and lock the lever, the stock proportioning valve senses uneven pressure and turns the brake light on in the dash.:grinpimp: so you dont rip the calipers off the rear axle. i have left it locked for days and it didnt leak down at all. stay away from the elec. line locks like you said they will burn up after left on.

EDIT: now that i think about it, i called summitracing and they wanted almost $50 for the valve, and i made them match sardeson's price. gotta love that beat a price guarantee!

 

i went with one of these bad boys.

the best price i found was here
its installed in the rear line right after the brake master, which worked really good on accident. when you mash the peddle and lock the lever, the stock proportioning valve senses uneven pressure and turns the brake light on in the dash.:grinpimp: so you dont rip the calipers off the rear axle. i have left it locked for days and it didnt leak down at all. stay away from the elec. line locks like you said they will burn up after left on.

EDIT: now that i think about it, i called summitracing and they wanted almost $50 for the valve, and i made them match sardeson's price. gotta love that beat a price guarantee!

Where did you mount the valve?
in the cab by the floor?

 

i have seen some calipers with an auxiliary connection to mechanical cables for parking brake, just don't remember the brand... but the line locks seem to be cost-effective enought...

 

also you can lock it before hitting the brakes for front brake only tire frying

 

this is something you shouldn't expect to see me doing, but the drag-racing guys like it...

 

after almost one year to date, i finally built a back bumper for the truck last sunday. i just spray bombed it for now to keep the rust off, it will be coated with bedliner shortly.

I also got around to building the brackets for my timbren overloads

and installed along with a new set of 02 f350 rear shocks (perfect fit for 4in. lift)

 

They don't use air!

 

I was quoting the brake valve.

 

How do you like the ride with the timbren overloads? I'm thinking about getting them for my Grumman build.

 

i am liking them so far. the only thing i've towed since i installed them was a 30ft bumper pull camper, that i towed home 170mi. the truck seems to soak up the big bumps alot better and the timbrens seemed to eliminate some body roll while towing.

 

Roger that, read it a second time!

 

i nuked another getrag memorial day on the way home from wheeling hauling this load

i tore it down yesterday and heres the input next to a good one

it also blew a decent sized hole in the side of the housing. i need the truck for monday so no time for the zf. i picked up a 2wd rag and swapped the mainshaft and extension housing onto it.

got it all buttoned back up this morning and all is well.

 

DANG! Nice work swapping that out... Nice trailer too. How does the truck do pulling it?

 

thanks! theres about 10,000lbs on the trailer, and i was absolutley blown away at how well it handled the hills with a maxed setup. i could tell the rest of the drivetrain was being heavily taxed tho... i gotta fix my car so i can tear the truck down for a week or two and install the zf6, 1410 rear shaft, ect. im still trying to commit to dropping the cash on a worthy clutch

 

Wow.... looks like an awful lot of weight for a tandem axle. I see the tires on the steer axle are nearly bald as well. And towing in OD is why you blew up the Getrag :nuke:

 

with 10K on the trailer it brings it 200# over the GVWR, darn you got me there...
yes my front tires are getting a little thin, thanks I had not noticed

why do you just assume I was towing in 5th? the initial breakage occured leaving a stoplight too hard and stripping teeth off the input gear. it was making a ton of noise, and i ran it another 40-50 miles until the reverse idler picked up a tooth and launched it thru the case. i proceeded another mile or so with no oil in the trans to get off the highway (expired trailer tags ) and lost it all coasting into a truckstop. hence the nuclear input bearing and gear. i have a trans temp guage and it never got warm until the gear debris came into play.

 

EDIT, looks great! thanks for the great motor mount idea!

 

I am just figuring out the motor mounts for my own swap. I have 91 dodge mounts and rubber mounts, and i planned on using the chevy mounts slotted out. I have a 2wd truck, so the trans tunnel is def. shorter however right now the motor seems to hit even the firewall. DO you have a body lift?

 

subscribed to this thread great info!!. i was thinking about doing my motor mounts the same way but mine is a 2wd i dont want to do a body lift. is it feasible doing it this way?

 

yes, i have a 1in. body lift for bellhousing to cab clearance