[char1355]

Is there not a way to fit the AC with a compound setup?.

You could always use one of the nostaglia ac units that mounts everything under the dash. Just have to plumb the hoses. You could mount the ac compressor beside #1 and 2 valve cover on the driver's side. Then you'd have most of the passenger's side empty for turbos. Where there is will there is a way.

 

[eric28miller]

Question for ya, you mentioned you had a parking brake in the works, did you ever get it hooked up?? I have the same problem, i swapped to the disc too. I was thinking about going with line locks, but i don't think they work for long periods of time and draw power while on, and i don't know if that would be bad for the caliper..

 

[wicked_sten]

i went with one of these bad boys.

the best price i found was here http://sardesonracing.com/page%20047.htm
its installed in the rear line right after the brake master, which worked really good on accident. when you mash the peddle and lock the lever, the stock proportioning valve senses uneven pressure and turns the brake light on in the dash.:grinpimp: so you dont rip the calipers off the rear axle. i have left it locked for days and it didnt leak down at all. stay away from the elec. line locks like you said they will burn up after left on.

EDIT: now that i think about it, i called summitracing and they wanted almost $50 for the valve, and i made them match sardeson's price. gotta love that beat a price guarantee!

 

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

i have seen some calipers with an auxiliary connection to mechanical cables for parking brake, just don't remember the brand... but the line locks seem to be cost-effective enought...

 

[wicked_sten]

also you can lock it before hitting the brakes for front brake only tire frying

 

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

also you can lock it before hitting the brakes for front brake only tire frying

this is something you shouldn't expect to see me doing, but the drag-racing guys like it...

 

[wicked_sten]

after almost one year to date, i finally built a back bumper for the truck last sunday. i just spray bombed it for now to keep the rust off, it will be coated with bedliner shortly.

I also got around to building the brackets for my timbren overloads

and installed along with a new set of 02 f350 rear shocks (perfect fit for 4in. lift)

 

[dt75flh]

i went with one of these bad boys.

the best price i found was here
its installed in the rear line right after the brake master, which worked really good on accident. when you mash the peddle and lock the lever, the stock proportioning valve senses uneven pressure and turns the brake light on in the dash.:grinpimp: so you dont rip the calipers off the rear axle. i have left it locked for days and it didnt leak down at all. stay away from the elec. line locks like you said they will burn up after left on.

EDIT: now that i think about it, i called summitracing and they wanted almost $50 for the valve, and i made them match sardeson's price. gotta love that beat a price guarantee!

Where did you mount the valve?
in the cab by the floor?

 

[Grey Wolf]

They don't use air!

 

[wfduggan]

How do you like the ride with the timbren overloads? I'm thinking about getting them for my Grumman build.

 

[dt75flh]

They don't use air!

I was quoting the brake valve.

 

[Grey Wolf]

Roger that, read it a second time!

 

[wicked_sten]

Where did you mount the valve?
in the cab by the floor?

i mounted it in the lower left corner of the dash, where the parking brake release used to be.

 

[wicked_sten]

How do you like the ride with the timbren overloads? I'm thinking about getting them for my Grumman build.

i am liking them so far. the only thing i've towed since i installed them was a 30ft bumper pull camper, that i towed home 170mi. the truck seems to soak up the big bumps alot better and the timbrens seemed to eliminate some body roll while towing.

 

[dt75flh]

i mounted it in the lower left corner of the dash, where the parking brake release used to be.

Thank you for the pic. this was my dilema with my 14 bolt, and disc brakes.

 

[wicked_sten]

i nuked another getrag memorial day on the way home from wheeling hauling this load

i tore it down yesterday and heres the input next to a good one

it also blew a decent sized hole in the side of the housing. i need the truck for monday so no time for the zf. i picked up a 2wd rag and swapped the mainshaft and extension housing onto it.

got it all buttoned back up this morning and all is well.

 

[Jishory]

DANG! Nice work swapping that out... Nice trailer too. How does the truck do pulling it?

 

[wicked_sten]

thanks! theres about 10,000lbs on the trailer, and i was absolutley blown away at how well it handled the hills with a maxed setup. i could tell the rest of the drivetrain was being heavily taxed tho... i gotta fix my car so i can tear the truck down for a week or two and install the zf6, 1410 rear shaft, ect. im still trying to commit to dropping the cash on a worthy clutch

 

[MaxPF]

Wow.... looks like an awful lot of weight for a tandem axle. I see the tires on the steer axle are nearly bald as well. And towing in OD is why you blew up the Getrag :nuke:

 

[wicked_sten]

Wow.... looks like an awful lot of weight for a tandem axle. I see the tires on the steer axle are nearly bald as well. And towing in OD is why you blew up the Getrag :nuke:

with 10K on the trailer it brings it 200# over the GVWR, darn you got me there...
yes my front tires are getting a little thin, thanks I had not noticed

why do you just assume I was towing in 5th? the initial breakage occured leaving a stoplight too hard and stripping teeth off the input gear. it was making a ton of noise, and i ran it another 40-50 miles until the reverse idler picked up a tooth and launched it thru the case. i proceeded another mile or so with no oil in the trans to get off the highway (expired trailer tags ) and lost it all coasting into a truckstop. hence the nuclear input bearing and gear. i have a trans temp guage and it never got warm until the gear debris came into play.