Has any one on here ever taken the dash out of one of these trucks? It looks like it will be a nightmare. Mine is a 93 F150 with a 4bt. I think the previous owner may have had the dash out because it rattles really bad when the 4bt hits certain RPMs. It has a bunch of wires and vacuum hoses running thru it and who knows how many screws and bolts holding it in place. I'd say some screws are missing. The button that resets the trip odometer buzzes like a bee at 55 MPH and a rough gravel road is really annoying.
oshpunit987
Might want to find yourself a copy of a Haynes service manual for that truck. I believe there are only 7 bolts that hold the dash in place. You must remove the glove box insert and radio to access them along with the front trim. I believe the gauge cluster only has 4 screws holding it in place. Might want to stick some small strips of Dynomat to some of the metal braces under the dash. If there is a possible rattle, a diesel will find it.
Funny, I was just struggling with this idea after doing sound damping throughout the rest of the cab. Check fullsizebronco.com--I was able to find some tips on there.
Its definitely a big job. Once the glove box, radio and cigarette lighter are out that its possible to remove the dash with all of the ducting, wiring, and other pieces as a single unit.
Good luck.
-MIke
Its definitely a big job. Once the glove box, radio and cigarette lighter are out that its possible to remove the dash with all of the ducting, wiring, and other pieces as a single unit.
Good luck.
-MIke
This is more detailed info on dash removal.
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj1c021.htm
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj1c021.htm
I got the dash out two days ago. I probably had 3 or 4 hours in taking it out. I believe it has 7 screws and 4 nuts that hold the dash on. The hardest part for me other than having never done it before is unfastening those electrical plugs. The vacuum plug at the right door was hard to undo also. You have to take the dome light switch on the right door out too. I had to hold the tube the button slides back into with needle nose pliers then turn the nut with a 15MM wrench. Once it's out you have to unplug the plastic connection. The directions I had said to take the heater controls out. I had it all disconnected except for the cable to the heater flapper. It looked like it came out with the dash so I didn't remove it. When I got the dash loose the heater flapper was still on the firewall and I couldn't get the white clip that holds the cable to the duct to come off. There are 8 screws that hold the cover over the heater core so I took the cover off and was able to disconnect the cable that way plus I checked the heater core too. I found that some of my rattles were from a couple screws in the ducts.
I was going to put insulation in the firewall. My truck is a 93 and the firewall already has a layer of insulation and extends down below the carpet. There is still a lot of duct work attached to the firewall. Probably the best way to add insulation is putting it on the engine side of the firewall.
I was going to put insulation in the firewall. My truck is a 93 and the firewall already has a layer of insulation and extends down below the carpet. There is still a lot of duct work attached to the firewall. Probably the best way to add insulation is putting it on the engine side of the firewall.
I went to the junk yard today to get another dash. Mine has some pieces broke on it.. I found one that was the color I wanted and it had the steering wheel already loose except for the shaft. It took me about 75 minutes to get it out so it isn't all that hard to do. When I first got there I was talking to the owner and he told me he had recently bought 2 trucks from a business that had closed up and they had just had new 4bt's put in the trucks. He sold them the next day to an amishman for $1500 apiece. I would have loved to got those but I showed up too late.
I’ll write up directions on how I took my dash out. I dreaded doing this due to never having done it before. It took me a while to find any info on how to proceed.
1. Take the trim off the front of the doors from the floor to the top of the windshield.
2. Take the radio out to unplug the antenna. The antenna cable is held in clips at the
bottom of the dash. Get it free of the dash. Remove glove box.
3. Take the ignition switch out and remove the 2 piece cover on the steering column.
If you have tilt wheel, that handle screws out.
4. 2 screws hold the turn signal handle onto the steering column. Remove them. The
turn signal handle will then stay with the dash with all the other wiring.
5. Take the panel under the steering wheel off.
6. Take the bolt out that holds the steering shaft together. If automatic, take the white
cable for the gear indicator off the column, 7/32 socket IIRC. Then take the 4 nuts
off that hold the steering column in and remove the steering column.
7. The big aluminum thing under the dash is what the steering column is mounted to.
There are 2 sets of wires clipped together and attached to the aluminum thing.
Unclip them. Also unclip the wires to the E-brake and the brake switch. There’s a
big bundle of wires attached to the left side of the steering column and you can
unplug it by taking I believe an 8mm screw out of the middle of it. If you have a
clutch unplug the wires to it too. With an automatic, take the gear shift cable off
to get the steering column out. Behind the aluminum thing are 2 wiring harnesses
coming thru the fire wall. Go to the engine side under the brake booster and a 10mm
screw holds the plugs together. Once you get them apart there’s a clip on the top and
bottom. Squeeze the clips and push the harness plugs inside the cab.
8. Take the nuts off the E-brake and lay it on the floor.
9. Take 3 of the 4 bolts out that hold the aluminum thing to the dash. The 4th bolt will
be the last bolt to come out.
10. On the lower right side in front of the door, unplug the wires and vacuum lines
that go to the dash. Remove the switch for the dome light. Screw it out and then unplug it.
11. There are 2 screws under the dash in the middle, 8mm IIRC. They are attached to
braces coming from the firewall. There’s also a vacuum line and wires there that
need unplugged.
12. There are 4 screws on top of the dash that need removed.
13. There are 2 screws left that hold the dash in place. 1 screw at the lower right of the
dash and the last bolt in the aluminum thing. The second dash I took out just hung
there. Pull it back and lay it on the floor.
14. The cable to the heater needs taken loose. I could not get the little white clip
undone so I took the 8 screws out of the cover over the heater core and was able to
maneuver the wire cable off the flapper. The dash should be free.
1. Take the trim off the front of the doors from the floor to the top of the windshield.
2. Take the radio out to unplug the antenna. The antenna cable is held in clips at the
bottom of the dash. Get it free of the dash. Remove glove box.
3. Take the ignition switch out and remove the 2 piece cover on the steering column.
If you have tilt wheel, that handle screws out.
4. 2 screws hold the turn signal handle onto the steering column. Remove them. The
turn signal handle will then stay with the dash with all the other wiring.
5. Take the panel under the steering wheel off.
6. Take the bolt out that holds the steering shaft together. If automatic, take the white
cable for the gear indicator off the column, 7/32 socket IIRC. Then take the 4 nuts
off that hold the steering column in and remove the steering column.
7. The big aluminum thing under the dash is what the steering column is mounted to.
There are 2 sets of wires clipped together and attached to the aluminum thing.
Unclip them. Also unclip the wires to the E-brake and the brake switch. There’s a
big bundle of wires attached to the left side of the steering column and you can
unplug it by taking I believe an 8mm screw out of the middle of it. If you have a
clutch unplug the wires to it too. With an automatic, take the gear shift cable off
to get the steering column out. Behind the aluminum thing are 2 wiring harnesses
coming thru the fire wall. Go to the engine side under the brake booster and a 10mm
screw holds the plugs together. Once you get them apart there’s a clip on the top and
bottom. Squeeze the clips and push the harness plugs inside the cab.
8. Take the nuts off the E-brake and lay it on the floor.
9. Take 3 of the 4 bolts out that hold the aluminum thing to the dash. The 4th bolt will
be the last bolt to come out.
10. On the lower right side in front of the door, unplug the wires and vacuum lines
that go to the dash. Remove the switch for the dome light. Screw it out and then unplug it.
11. There are 2 screws under the dash in the middle, 8mm IIRC. They are attached to
braces coming from the firewall. There’s also a vacuum line and wires there that
need unplugged.
12. There are 4 screws on top of the dash that need removed.
13. There are 2 screws left that hold the dash in place. 1 screw at the lower right of the
dash and the last bolt in the aluminum thing. The second dash I took out just hung
there. Pull it back and lay it on the floor.
14. The cable to the heater needs taken loose. I could not get the little white clip
undone so I took the 8 screws out of the cover over the heater core and was able to
maneuver the wire cable off the flapper. The dash should be free.
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