[tractor_boy]

i happen to own a 1997 ranger and am tired of all the wires and sensor bullshit that comes with gas engines these days. I have a few questions for the lift are the front shocks the same rough country ones? does it handle that weight ok? and for the rearend. how is that holding up to the torture of the torque monster?

Front shocks are rough country nitro extended length shocks. It's ok the way it is I guess, but I want to add a second set of shocks up front due to all that extra weight bouncing around.

The rear end is holding up great so far. I need to make myself some steel lift blocks that are a bit stouter than the current aluminum ones, as they keep squashing or corroding or something. Anyhow the current setup likes to creak going over bumps. Tightening the u-bolts helps but only for a little.

 

[laport2]

oh i forgot to ask. four wheel drive does it work?

 

[tractor_boy]

If I ever made me a front driveline it would!!

 

[laport2]

shit man. i need start planing. or upgrade to a straight front axle

 

[tractor_boy]

shit man. i need start planing. or upgrade to a straight front axle

If you're gonna lift the truck and plan to do any heavy duty off-roading, it might be a good idea to start with a solid axle right off the bat. My bet is that a solid axle swap + lift is roughly the same price as a TTB axle lift. If you have the Dana 35 in front though, it will do fine for light duty off-roading and winter driving.

Yeah, start planning!!

 

[char1355]

Been reading this build up. Awesome job. Wish I was that talented. Those little weird things like the smoke and popping keep you up at nights wondering what I did wrong. Nice to hear the pump is in good order. They can be horribly expensive to repair. One thing I caught in your write up is your hitting 40 lbs boost with your turbo. You do realize that you are nearing the limits of you head gasket. I'd keep a eye on the boost. You possibly might have opted for the O ringing. Blown head gaskets are no fun. Of course you have already pulled your head once or twice for the valve problem. I am contemplating a similar build only my vehible is a 90 f250 diesel. Have a bit more room under the hood to work with. In comparing numbers, the p pump 3.9 has virtually the same power as an IDI 7.3. The torque is only 1 lb ft difference and the peak hp come on 800 rpms lower. Can't wait to read more installments.

 

[tractor_boy]

Thanks!
I'm not talented, just willing to try. It's a learning process. And there are plenty of things I have done wrong, but I'm learning plenty.

On the boost- Keep in mind it is not high boost which blows head gaskets. All high boost blows apart is you intercooler and boots. It is actually high cylinder pressures which blows head gaskets. Yes, generally if you are running higher boost that does mean you are running higher cylinder pressures. But these marine pistons do quite a bit to lower peak cylinder pressures, probably explaining why I haven't hurt it yet...

 

[char1355]

Thanks!
I'm not talented, just willing to try. It's a learning process. And there are plenty of things I have done wrong, but I'm learning plenty.

On the boost- Keep in mind it is not high boost which blows head gaskets. All high boost blows apart is you intercooler and boots. It is actually high cylinder pressures which blows head gaskets. Yes, generally if you are running higher boost that does mean you are running higher cylinder pressures. But these marine pistons do quite a bit to lower peak cylinder pressures, probably explaining why I haven't hurt it yet...

Very true. If you were running std pistons your boost would probably max out about 30 with that turbo. The marine engines run up to 250 hp but don't have a great rep for longevity. But they are being run full throtle most of the time. Love the exhaust header.

 

[gadget]

A few years ago, I used to work on the Liebherr Mining dump trucks ... the ones you see on Discovery channel. (16V4000 & 20V4000 Detroits) We had a similar problem with flames from the exhaust. It usually happened when the engines were frist started, and it was cold out. What would happen is that excess fuel, that was part of the warm-up program from the ECM, would remain unburnt, and puddle in low spots in the exhaust, and would ignite, when the engine was revved up. Your flame problem might be from the same sort of problem. You might be running a little too rich, and the excess fuel is lighting off when you rev the engine up, sending more air and hotter gasses into the exhaust. I'm not saying this is possitive, but it might be something for you to look into. Hope it helps.

 

[tractor_boy]

The ranger has been down for several weeks now, due to a cracked oil pickup tube. The flange cracked vertically and then the crack propagated around the tube until it almost completely broke off. It was taking about 30 seconds to build oil pressure each time I started it, and the oil pressure at idle would sometimes drop below 10 psi.

I pulled the engine, transmission and transfer case out. Tore the transfer case apart to regasket it, tore the engine apart too. I ordered a new oil pickup tube and some new gaskets to fix all my oil related problems. Bearings were slightly scored so I have some new ones ordered.

Then I saw the cam was worn, so I needed a new one. I have a Colt Cams "Big Stick" on the way to replace it. Figured if I had to get a new one, I might as well get a good one. I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out.

If all goes well and my parts show up as scheduled, I should be able to get this back together by Thursday night!!

 

[wbdave]

waitin on parts, doesnt this part suck! lol

 

[Laserface]

I saw that you kept the VSS in the transfer case to keep ABS. Were you also able to make the factory speedo work also?

 

[nexxussian]

waitin on parts, doesnt this part suck! lol

Yes, yes it does.

 

[tractor_boy]

I saw that you kept the VSS in the transfer case to keep ABS. Were you also able to make the factory speedo work also?

Factory speedo is gear driven, out of the hole right beside the ABS sensor. So my factory speedo works great, I used a longer cable from a early 90's superduty but it's a little too long. One from an Econoline van would have been perfect I think. Laugh at me all you want guys, I'm dumb! Haha my VSS is not plugged in because the wire harness was several inches too short. So rather than me taking a couple minutes to solder a few inches in, I've lived with an ABS light on for 6 months.
Rangers' speedometers and abs sensors were gear driven until '95, then they went to electric.

 

[tractor_boy]

Yes, yes it does.

I'm trying to not complain too much, definitely keeping busy til my parts do show up though. I rebuilt my transfer case (NP205) late last night/ early this morning. I'm gonna check up on my cam tomorrow morning, make sure it is on schedule to be here Wednesday.

I've picked up a second and third part time job in addition to my 40hr week office job to help afford stuff like this, because money is so tight for a student who goes to an expensive college and likes diesel rangers.

 

[wbdave]

School

I've picked up a second and third part time job in addition to my 40hr week office job to help afford stuff like this, because money is so tight for a student who goes to an expensive college and likes diesel rangers.

Im going back to school in Jan. my hrs are going to suffer ontop of having 2 bike payments my ranger is gona have to be neglected in aftermarket parts unless i skip out on a vacation but thats just assanide :rasta:! ha

 

[Laserface]

How well does the ZF fit the trans tunnel? If you had to do some "clearancing" even with a body lift, I'm wondering how mooktank did it. I would ask him, but he hasn't been on since the middle of June.

 

[tractor_boy]

How well does the ZF fit the trans tunnel? If you had to do some "clearancing" even with a body lift, I'm wondering how mooktank did it. I would ask him, but he hasn't been on since the middle of June.

I chopped off some of the tabs from the ZF, cut the shifter hole a bit farther forward, two inch body lift, and then flattened the seam on the firewall where it was too close to the tranny.

Mooktank's rig was different because he deleted the whole front crossmember, plus used a solid axle. The crossmember to oil pan interference (esp on 4X4's) is what keeps you from lowering and sliding the engine and trnsmission forward for better transmission clearance. An M5R1 will fit easier than the ZF though.

 

[Laserface]

I chopped off some of the tabs from the ZF, cut the shifter hole a bit farther forward, two inch body lift, and then flattened the seam on the firewall where it was too close to the tranny.

Mooktank's rig was different because he deleted the whole front crossmember, plus used a solid axle. The crossmember to oil pan interference (esp on 4X4's) is what keeps you from lowering and sliding the engine and trnsmission forward for better transmission clearance. An M5R1 will fit easier than the ZF though.

I overlooked his crossmember deletion. I didn't realize his whole setup sat lower.

 

[wbdave]

the m5r is a sexy fit