well, I may have answered my question... Reason I was asking is I was under the impression that you needed some "special" kit, like the amsoil setup my dad has on his 7.3 but that doesnt appear to be the case... It looks like some of them are just a BP-100 oil filter with some small (an-4) hoses running in and out of. So I could just tap off the oil filter housing for pressure, and just run a return line back into the pan, while leaving the stock filter in use?

Sounds simple, or do I have it all wrong?

 

Sounds about right, you may want to check your oil pressure before and after fitting, if it drops your oil pressure too much you will need to restrict the flow to the filter.
If you want the ultimate bypass filter look at an oil centrifuge. IE; Spinner ll

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DONALDSON-H...LDSON-HEAD-ASSY-P167848-/280492327473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item414ea54231 Bought a filter head similar to this one for 4 bucks and run a Donaldson 551550 3 micron filter. Brass teed into drivers side 1/8" NPT port and used grease gun hose for supply/return.

 

Red did you just reduce the in outs to size to the 1/8 npt??

 

Damn Red you find the good stuff for cheap

All Ive looked at are 40 n up..

 

Mine will use an LF504 Military Senior housing which I already have, with a .50 micron absolute filter element. Pressured feed will be Flex line to hard line tapped into one of those plugged oil gallery ports on the driver's side of 4BT block, the plugged bosses just below injection pump, above oil pan rail; think there's 3 of them there? Return will utilize the freeze plug with U shaped cast boss having bolt holes not yet threaded, below those oil galleries and above oil pan rail on driver's side. That's an unpressurized return port to pan.

The .50 micron absolute filter element insures no noticeable change in oil pressure and thereby allows super-cleaning of just a sample of oil to be slowly filtered, to work over time, not immediate large micron filtration that's actually useless to bother with.

 

I did similar to Redhead on my 6bta. Got a filter mount, filter, and had hoses made. I don't think I have $50 in it. I made a bracket and bolted it to the alternator mount, it dumps into the oil fill tube. I need to get some pics I guess.

 

Pics of my home made set up.

 

What's the ultimate goal of this? Extending oil change intervals? There seems to be no real shortcoming to the factory setup since I've seen engines posted on here with well over 100,000 hard miles with hone marks still visible. Not knocking the ideas, just curious as to what is gained.

 

A properly designed bypass filtration system with .50 micron absolute filter element can double the life of an engine.

 

The bypass filter removes finer "dirt" from the system than the primary filter. Bearing life is extended.

 

Nice setup truckman. Mine is similar.

 

Never heard of a bypass filter system. Does this very fine filter work in conjunction with the original one? Or does it completely bypass the original one?

 

Bypass filters that I am farmilair with filter a small amount of oil that doesn't go back into the main galley, usually to the pan.

It filters out much finer materials, so the oil is cleaner overall.

If you are used to automotive setups where there is a filter bypass valve these usually go in place of that (so you don't blow the primary filter just because the oil is being difficult to pump [cold start for example]).

With the extra filter it can, potentially extend the service life of the engine.

If contaminated oil was what shortened it.

That would require being diligent with the maintenance.

Usually people that are good about upkeep of the vehicle tend to operate it more reasonably and within design operating limits (that makes a huge difference in and of itself ).

 

Isuzu had a bypass filter set-up factory on the 4BD1T, when they switched the the 4BD2T they went with a non bypass system. I plan to retain my bypass set-up, the factory recommended change interval with it is like 15k miles.

 

According to very knowledgeable, very expert opinion I trust very highly: A Bypass Filter works in addition to the OEM oil filter, to super-filter a portion of the oil as you drive. Over time, the course of a month or so, it has filtered all the oil. As we diesel freaks know, it can take but a few days or a week to turn your brand new diesel oil into a black kurky liquid! The Bypass filters at .50 microns absolute [largest particle is .50 microns rather than average size of .50 micron] to remove particles that cannot be removed by OEM 200 micron or larger filter element. Within a fairly short time the oil looks brand new again and stays that way for the duration, no harmful particles.

This will reduce wear throughout the entire engine, wherever oil is pumped, all bearings and wearing surfaces. It can double the engine's lifetime according to well informed sources. I don't know the change interval on bypass filter elements. In general it's probably the single best thing you can do for your engine after basics are all addressed.

 

I spent what seemd like almost a 1/2 hour trying to edit my reply but software just wouldn't cooperate...

Where it says, "...black kurky liquid..." that should be 'black murky liquid, for what it's worth....

 

Figured it was something like that.

The .50 micron may be for some aftermarket systems, but I don't believe it holds true for the factory bypass filters (ie the one my '86 NPR had).

 

Jimmy

An NPR is a medium duty truck.

As far as I know, none of the big 3 used a bypass setup on the vintage and type of vehicles your dog suggests.

However I am working on a 1950 GMC currently, the original engine only had a bypass filter, the concept of a "bypass" is it doesn't put the oil back into the galley, it bypasses that and returns to the sump or oil pump inlet.

The "super filter" concept is in addition to that, not part and parcel of it.

 

Yes, I had a '49 Chevy 3/4 ton long bed stepside a litle after the middle of last century, 292" industrial 6 & 4speed, one heck of a truck! I vaguely remember the filter as you describe.

But in general most all I know about bypass systems [for the purpose of this thread] I've already posted.

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/by-pass-oil-filtration.php

Interesting read on bypass systems for a company that does not try and sell a bypass filter system.

 

TY for the link.

 

Is anyone familiar with Frantz toilet paper filter? I have one on the work bench, just have t got around to setting it up yet.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Pops had one, all he's ever said about it was that it was a hell of a mess to change the "cartridge" (toilet paper roll).

 

Cummins offers bypass oil filter systems on their larger engines for over the road tractors and industrial application. They generally don't put them on the smaller diesels such as the "B" series but they can be added. I'm currently building a set up around a LF777 which is a pure bypass unit in combo with a LF16035 stratapor primary filter. Will post some photos soon. Cummins has some good articles about byspass systems and the exagerated claims of particle size filtering capabilities. Most of those claims cannot be proven and are pure hype. You can find info on this on the Fleetgard site.

 

I respect your judgement and advice.

Sometimes I wonder about Cummins Technical, they say some real strange stuff! In essence they're saying they offer bypass filtration because it works. Bypass filtration uses a finer filtration media than a full-flow filter. Then they turn around and say a finer filtration medium is a waste of time? Strange...then why offer bypass systems as an option or OEM install?

A 200 micron filter removes particles whose average size is 200 microns or larger. A .50 micron absolute filter removes all particles that are .50 microns or larger. Particles larger than .50 microns can cause serious wear on an engine over time. It is those + .50 micron absolute particles that cause the wear that increases clearances. If the wear that increases clearances is eliminated then bearings are continually supported on a thin film layer of pressurized oil. If that wear factor isn't eliminated the clearances eventually become great enough over time that instead of metal to oil suspension it becomes metal to metal - extreme wear.

I researched it a few years back and was convinced by user testimonies. Many guys said they started out with murky black oil and in a few weeks with a .50 micron absolute filter the oil looked like new, clear and clean - and stayed that way ever after.

There was a lot of info on the 'Bob is the oil guy' website about it too. I think that's where one or more guys stated that one could theoretically eliminate the need to ever change oil again, but others disagreed as I recall, claiming oil eventually breaks down somehow.

Certainly it's one of those 'To each his own' things. I have been planning to install for quite a while, just haven't been able to.

 

Jimmied where do you get the .50 micron filters at and how much??

 

Spoke to Donaldson the 551550 you use Red is a 25 micron rating

p564967 is a 5 micron filter

Any claims of .50 are so small Donaldson said there is no way to measure that small

Anything under 5 micron are exagerated according to them..

 

Spoke to Donaldson the 551550 you use Red is a 25 micron rating
p564967 is a 5 micron filter
Any claims of .50 are so small Donaldson said there is no way to measure that small
Anything under 5 micron are exagerated according to them..

This is a very complicated and complex subject, many factors involved. Serious stuff, when your engine's life is at stake. We all have to make our own command decision on just who we want to believe, and what we want to believe. I'm not one to follow only one source for technical info. Just like with doctors, I like to get a second opinion, better a third too!

Bypass Filter general info:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=34&page=1

More general info:
Here's a couple of Baldwin oil filters as examples. They're both rated Full Flow, not the finer and more restrictive Bypass type. One is 25 Micron, the other 10 Micron for Full Flow use.
http://www.go2marine.com/product/87098F/microlite-full-flow-spin-on-oil-filter-bt287-bt287-10.html

Here's an Amsoil page with relevant info on Bypass Filtration. Bypass is far different from Full-Flow oil filtration. Check the Micron ratings:
http://www.thebestoil.com/AMSOILSyntheticOilandAirFiltrationProducts/default.aspx

An informative .pdf from Fleetguard. Not sure the link will open as a .pdf download, may have to search for 'Fleetguard Bypass Filtration .pdf'
http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG...650/**http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT15094.pdf

Another informative Fleetguard .pdf:
http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG...650/**http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/MB10046.pdf

More general info:
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/absolute_efficiency_bypass.htm

Hastings has their own corporate opinions and doesn't freely give Micron ratings for their filter media. They also have this to say [again, more than one opinion is preferred...] -

"ENGINEERING BULLETIN 98 - 4
April 14, 1998

FILTER PERFORMANCE AND MICRON RATINGS

Micron Ratings are arbitrary values assigned to filters or media. Although a "micron" is a length (1 millionth of a meter), a "micron rating" is not actually a measured value. The micron rating for a filter quotes a particle size without establishing the filter's efficiency at removing that size of particles. A window screen will remove some 5 micron particles, but it will not be very efficient. Since a micron rating cannot be verified, filter manufacturers are safe in assigning any number that they want. Hastings does not recommend comparing filters based on micron ratings.

To compare filters, the filter industry has established standardized tests for measuring performance. These tests include Life and Efficiency Tests (SAE J726, J806, and J905) and Beta Ratio Tests (SAE J1858). These SAE standardized test methods, along with the meticulous recording of test conditions, ensure that filter comparisons are "apples to apples."

Life and Efficiency Tests measure the filter's ability to remove a standardized contaminant from a standardized fluid that is flowing at a constant rate and a constant temperature. The test continues until the contamination trapped in the media raises the differential pressure drop across the filter to a specific, predetermined level. Life and Efficiency Test results will include a Time Weighted Efficiency (%) and a Capacity (grams).

Beta Ratio Tests are by far the most accurate and objective way to compare the performance of filters. A Beta Ratio Test measures a filter's ability to remove particles of given sizes. In other words, the test measures the filter's efficiencies at specific particle sizes. The beta ratio test equipment actually counts the particles in the fluid before the filter and after the filter. This ratio is the Beta Ratio.

The beta ratio will generally be between 1 and 75. Beta ratios can also be converted to efficiencies using the following formula:

In summary, equipment owners should consider several factors when choosing filters for their applications. For best results, customers should consult the latest edition of the Hastings Applications Catalog and the Hastings Filter Interchange\Product Reference Catalog to select filters based on Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) part numbers. When comparing filters, the questionable nature of micron ratings encourages users to try to obtain standardized test information for apples-to-apples product comparisons."
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So it appears that mfgr's may have their own opinions of what constitutes an apple. Other's have differing opinions of apples in general, complicating things further.

From some of the pages at above links we see bypass filters commonly at 1-2 micron absolute rating regardless of what Donaldson says.

 

My replies that suggested a .50 micron filter aren't exactly accurate.

Yes, I found such a filter by diligent searching. Yes, it super-cleans the oil. However very pricey and somewhat impractical. 1 - 2 Micron Absolute is plenty for this application. Wouldn't personally even consider anything any larger. I'd first consider Amsoil's filters but I'm an Amsoil dealer and trust their claims from prior experience.

The oil test analysis is critical. It's the only way to know what's really going on.

 

I have posted on this subject before on another thread,so I will put my two cents in again. I have had a lot of experience with this subject over the last 50 years. Bypass oil filtration systems were once considered necessary on all engines that required a very large oil supply (read; high cost to change oil and expense of replacing engines). I owned a GMC city transit bus that had the most elaborate oil filtration system,it had a very large full flow filter (1 Gal capacity) and a "fuller earth" bypass filter. The oil change interval on the bus was 100,000 miles. The bus only had 752,000 miles on it when I got it and it had an amazingly original 6V-71 Detroit in it that ran perfect.

One caution: you cannot forget about changing oil or filters. Filters get plugged up with all the stuff they filter out,and oil will eventually lose the additives that make it work so well. The filters and oil we have available now are far superior to what was available years agn a conventional full flow system, the change interval can safely be extended to 5000 miles,remember,oil companies,oil change stations and filter companies sell oil and filter changes. In conclusion if your funds are limited and you want to keep your 4BT or whatever engine you have in good condition, then install yourself a bypass oil filter,preferably a toilet paper one as they filter the best.Then establish a regular interval when you change the filters and the oil, not necessarily at the same time. Glenn

 

nobody here ever looked at centrifugal filters?
such as the mann-hummel fm016? (would love to post a link, but unable due to my postcount.)

allthough the 016 might be still a bit too large, since it requires a 6mm ID feed line.
however, if you were to run an extra dedicated pump for filtering the oil, it would be a killer filtration system.

 

Matter of fact I did look into centrifugal filters. The price was prohibitive but one fella came up with a fairly low cost unit. Quality was somewhat questionable as it was pretty much 3rd world mfg. but from what I heard the performance was acceptable and there didn't seem to be major reliability problems. It was still in the $300 category to get it set up.

Personally I'd probably run a 1-2 micron filter after the centrifuge as extra insurance, with some very long filter element change intervals. Centrifugal should work fine if the unit chosen is affordable and of sufficient quality.