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The VW Rabbit doesn't have a compressor, it has a vacuum pump for the power brakes. Earlier Ford diesels had this also. Also note: switching from trunk to crosshead pistons requires different connecting rods as well as different balance weight/pulleys for the front of the cam/balance shafts as well as additional weights for the timing gears.
David
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Correct, I had a brain fart mine has the crappy little diaphragm vacuum pump on it. Compressor/Vac Pump ... Potato/Pohtahtoh :p

Anywho, I've uploaded a video of my engine here https://youtu.be/KJtModbxV5g

The rockers have a bit of rust on em, but I think it looks ok otherwise in my unprofessional opinion. And I need to fix the starter... I'm not 100% sure there isn't a reason it is that way (if it was getting stuck engaged or something of that nature)

The breather filter is completely full of sawdust.. and I vacuumed about a quart of oil/sawdust off of the engine's various crevices. Need a new valve gasket... as well as the old one was half rotted away.
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
So, the Masco MA-10882 starter looks like a good bet but before I drop all that money on one of those are there any alternatives that are as good but less expensive?

The 30MT I really don't feel like repairing... or running at 12V with less output. I'm not too keen on putting another direct drive on either. So that leaves gear reduction starters...

Also does anyone know of the quality of this oil? https://www.amazon.com/Miles-Heavy-.../ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481263532&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=40+cf2+oil+10gal
 
West Marine has a location in Charlotte, North Carolina. Chevron Delo 100 SAE40 can be ordered. It is $29 a gallon by me. I would not take any chances running some questionable oil in your two cycle diesel. There are a couple good alternatives out there. I personally use Chevron HDMO 40 as it meets all of Detroit Diesels requirements. Some folks run Shell Rotella T-1 SAE40, it falls short of the sulfated ash requirement by a percent or so, but I would at least use a name brand quality oil over the cheapest oil you can find. Miles Petroleum is literally down the street from where I live. They are not a refinery, they are a distributor and primarily rebrand other generic oils for sale at big box stores under other names. Although it would be nice to support a local business, I choose to buy my oil elsewhere.

What is wrong with your Delco 30MT Starter? When properly cleaned and lubricated they last forever and then some. You can do basic cleaning of the starter nose, pinion and shaft at home. If that does not work, move on to testing the starter solenoid. You can get new solenoids for less than $50. Without knowing more information it is hard for us to help diagnose your problems. Who knows, it could be something as simple as increasing the gauge of the wire, or cleaning electrical contacts.

Chris
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
The 30MT is heavy, 24V (though it could be swapped and half it's output) and also not in good condition (broken solenoid as well as missing parts so I'm not sure if perhaps there are other things wrong with it as well).

$30 a gallon is quite expensive!

Edit: I pulled the starter off yesterday... there were only 2 of 3 bolts in it so it is just as well that I did. Also, I unbolted the sm420 but it didn't "slide right off" so I expect it will require a bit more elbow grease perhaps monday evening.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
So I was able to get my starter (the Masco model... which I recieved promptly after ordering as they are just down in SC and I'm in NC), it says to turn the vents on the starter down (I guess to drain water if it gets wet but that is unlikely in my application..... but I wasn't able to mount it with them down only sort of out to the side. Actually it looks to me like this starter was designed on mount exactly upside down from what it is on the gama goat bell housing. If anyone knows how to fix that let me know otherwise it will probably stay that way.

Also, after I got it to turn over it smoked a little and fired... and ran for s 3-5 seconds before dieing I suspect fuel isn't getting through the filter. I had the valve cover off I did see that oil is getting pumped up to the head as it was dry before starting and some oil was visible after it had ran a few seconds. I haven't changed the oil yet.. but have a 5gal pail and intend to do that as soon as I get it up on a block or mount etc.... new oil filter, air filter, and fuel filters. I'm hoping to get it running before I head back to work in January.

Actually I'm fairly impressed with the starter, it was about 40 degrees outside today and it turned it over fine with the battery out of my VW rabbit diesel.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Alright so the thermostat housing has a hole in the top of it shooting water about a foot in the air... what gives?

Ahem, I checked the manual and it doesn't really say anything specific bout this. It appears that there should be a fitting here that is broken off perhaps but I am not sure. Perhaps for a return line to the radiator so air gets purged? I have temporarily plugged this hole so I don't loose all my coolant but I intend to fix this sooner than later.

Running for a bit to circulate some coolant I added to make sure it doesn't freeze in a few days:
https://youtu.be/1-m9qpruyO8
 
It should have a bleeder fitting in the top of the housing for burping the cooling system when its filled. It'll be under water pump pressure when it's running. Checked out your video but couldn't really see what was there. Seems like it runs pretty good. TC.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVBknaNEc0o

You can clearly see the fitting in this guys video ... and if that is what it is supposed to look like I'll have to get an easy out or something of that nature and fix it... I think I saw in someone else's video they had it plugged into another bleeder fitting from the other end of the block instead of running it to the coolant resevoir!
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
So I was hooking up the coolant line and discovered that the radiator tank is pretty corroded.... I imagine these are gavenized fittings so it all needs to be replaced.

Also, another thing I am contemplating is only driving an alternator and vac pump for brakes... and running everything else electrically. The savings would be very mild but it might pan out... so electric AC/Powersteering/and cooling fan. I'm also not too keen on the mechanical clutch...unless someone convinces me otherwise It seems a hydro clutch would be less hassel (and I'm not used to a mechanical one so it doesn't matter to me) That said it would require some thought to make sure it would work in the gama goat bellhousing... I don't have a good grasp yet of all the mechanics of the clutch.
 
Also, another thing I am contemplating is only driving an alternator and vac pump for brakes... and running everything else electrically. The savings would be very mild but it might pan out... so electric AC/Powersteering/and cooling fan.
I'm curious what electric AC system you have in mind, might help me, and others, with future projects.

I'm also not too keen on the mechanical clutch...unless someone convinces me otherwise It seems a hydro clutch would be less hassel (and I'm not used to a mechanical one so it doesn't matter to me) That said it would require some thought to make sure it would work in the gama goat bellhousing... I don't have a good grasp yet of all the mechanics of the clutch.
Just out of curiosity, how much of the clutch hardware do you have?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I misspoke... I meant to say aftermaket AC system. Not electric as they kinda don't really exist and the benefit would be nil... why drive a huge alternator or separate 48volt alternator to run the AC when you can just drive it with a clutch to engage/disengage it. It might be possible to use the whatever AC is in a K5 if it has it... but I don't think the M1009 has AC in any case summit racing has AC kits for about $1500 that should fit the K5 (just use the c10 kit since they are virtually identical).... that said the mounting bracket might end up being custom. They have universal kits as well for much cheaper though they don't integrate with the stock controls etc...

I'm not sure.. I'd have to check the manual about what all of the clutch hardware looks like.... I have the part that bolts to the flywheel and a lever that is connected to the housing and that is it. But, what is there is very rusty... I doubt it would ever work properly so I intend to take it off I'm not sure what I am going to replace it with yet though.
 
I misspoke... I meant to say aftermaket AC system. Not electric as they kinda don't really exist and the benefit would be nil... why drive a huge alternator or separate 48volt alternator to run the AC when you can just drive it with a clutch to engage/disengage it. It might be possible to use the whatever AC is in a K5 if it has it... but I don't think the M1009 has AC in any case summit racing has AC kits for about $1500 that should fit the K5 (just use the c10 kit since they are virtually identical).... that said the mounting bracket might end up being custom. They have universal kits as well for much cheaper though they don't integrate with the stock controls etc...
OK, just wondering.

For whatever it's worth I just helped a fella put in a MK 4 Vintage Air setup in his car, it adapted to his OE controls nicely.

I've got a '50 GMC with a Vintage Air "Direct Fit" evaporator kit, it fit as described in their catalog (oddball engine and radiator or I would have gotten the whole kit).

I make nothing off that, just information that may be useful.

I'm not sure.. I'd have to check the manual about what all of the clutch hardware looks like.... I have the part that bolts to the flywheel and a lever that is connected to the housing and that is it. But, what is there is very rusty... I doubt it would ever work properly so I intend to take it off I'm not sure what I am going to replace it with yet though.

It may be able to be cleaned and refurbished enough to use an external slave, there are a few threads on here showing people with such setups.

Good lick.
 
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