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H1C to HX30W swap, what all do I need?

259 views 32 replies 5 participants last post by  david.r.mcd  
#1 ·
So my stock H1C gave up the ghost. I've already ordered an intercooler kit and will be adding a boost gauge and pyro gauge as well. It looks like I have plenty of room because I have read my exhaust moves back or something?

I really don't want to mess with my fueling, I'm just looking to replace the burned up H1C. So other than what I mentioned, what else do I need or need to look out for? I plan to pull the manifold and clean it up with new hardware when I install the pyro gauge.

I'm looking at a rebuilt Holset HX30W for the replacement. Thanks for any input or advice you have to offer. This is what I'm working on, Frito Lay Chevy P30 step van.

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#2 ·
Yea, it looks like you got room. I would recommend a new turbo because they give you extra stuff like the weld on ring for the compressor out put and a new oil drain. When I did mine originally, I didn’t get the right weld on ring or the right band clamp. I bought what I thought was right on eBay and used it for years. It was a source for leaks in boost.

i also didn’t install a intercooler right away. In your case, I would because it shouldn’t be that difficult. There is no reason to not adjust the fuel. It is so easy to make a big differnce.
 
#3 ·
I guess I'm just worried about messing with the VE pump I just spent $3500 on :D

I have a ton of room up front for the intercooler and just need to cut a few holes in the radiator support to pass the hoses through. The neighbor kid has a boost gauge he said I could have but I think I will go with the 3 in 1 with analog boost and EGT and water temps.
 
#4 ·
OK. there are 5 HX30W turbos. They have 4 sizes of compressor. 40mm, 42mm, 44mm, and 46mm. The 40mm is mainly an industrial application unit and was never on a road engine. It also tends to be kind of expensive. Don't recommend it. The 42mm came in 2 versions. One has a 6cm2 turbine whch came on the P pump 4bt used on road engines. The other has a 12cm2 turbine which came an a 6bt. You don't want that one. The next on with the 44mm compressor is probably the most common used as a replacement. It is built in China but it is a genuine Holset unit. It will literally bolt in place of your H1C. Same 3" air intake, same oil line, same exhaust, and same exhaust flange for mounting. It is about 1.5" longer due to the waste gate. On that you would need the turbo, the air outlet elbow which will be 2.5", the clamp to install that part, and a sealing washer. Same parts fit the 42mm should you luck up on one of those. The 46mm is referred to as the Super HX30W. It has a 4" air intake, uses a different oil line, and its air outlet elbow is 3.0". It will also be a bit more expensive. Here is a HX30W 44mm so you can see what it should look like. Part number will be 4040353 or 4040382.
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This company sells that unit for $578.00 which would be considered a deal. Holset HX30W 4040353 4040382
Here is what the ID plate on the turbo should look like.
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Now the outlet elbow is a common part for the HX30W escept for the Super model. The air output elbow is part 3918686, requires hole plug 3008465, sealing gasket 3918952, and clamp 3918951. From Cummins these parts are $123.23, $7.91, $26.15, and $64.56. That's a bit over $200. You can find them a lot cheaper in the aftermarket. Might find a used elbow in the $60-70 range or even cheaper. Must remember, the HX30W elbow is sort of unique. Weren't nealy as many of those made as the one used on the Super which is the same as an HX35W or HX40W. With a little shopping you might find all the parts for under $100. That gasket price is a bit nuts. It's a O ring for high temp but they don't cost that much. Must remember that the air output on the turbo can exceed 300 deg F. The air boots and gasket are generally rated for 500 deg F. The turbo when delievered is likely set to reach around 20 PSI boost depending on fuel from the injection pump. If you want more power you can adjust that. Maximum recommended is around 30-33 PSI. At that point you'd be pushing around 225 HP. Just a matter of adjusting the turbo and the injection pump. If you don't want a change then the turbo in stock form will do fine except boost will come on super fast compared to the old H1C. You plan an intercooler and that is mandatory on that turbo. Don't want 300 deg air going into your intake.
 
#6 · (Edited)
There is an eBay seller with a kit for $660

Turbo kits part list:

1.4040382 Turbo *1PC

2.Elbow pipe kits *1PC

3.Aadapter flange 3910990 *1PC

4.Oil feeding tube *1PC

5.Oil return tube *1PC

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<edit> I made an offer of $480, it's $130 for shipping.
 
#9 ·
For the EGT I was thinking just above the turbo in the manifold as I've read that is the hotest point.

Anywhere better?
[/QUJust
Just before the turbo in the port that is fed by cylinder #4 as the rear cylinders run the hottest, also make sure the tip of the probe is centered in the port that will give you the most accurate reading.
 
#10 ·
To get my probe to center I needed to use a close nipple and a collar because of the length of the probe and the relatively small port on the manifold, I used stainless steel pipe fittings but black would work if you cant find stainless use a copper based anti-seize on the joints to help sealing and for easier removal down the line.
 
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#11 ·
Get a quality gauge and probe, stay away from the thin super fast reacting probes is my advice, if placing pre turbo as they have a tendency to fail when subject to diesel fuel and heat and can drop into the turbine wheel, if placing post turbo, then this is a moot point, I personally don't install probes pre-turbo even when using the hd diesel probes, I'm a nervous nellie and just add a couple hundred degrees to my egt high set point...
 
#17 ·
On your turbo parts, you must remember that kit includes several parts which you probably won't use. The exhaust outlet you proably won't need but you could use the new clamp if your old one has seen better days. The oil feed and return lines you probably won't need. You can reuse your existing parts. The air outlet elbow is a big plus. You can't find a regular Cummins price on that turbo because it is only an import. But to give you an idea, the 42mm unit found on the P pump 4bt is part 3539334 and it is $1679.30. That's just the turbo and nothing else. Same turbo as you are looking at except it has a 2mm smaller inducer on the compressor blade. That price is probably because that turbo only had one application and that was a small quantity of the 4bt engines.

On your gauges, the pyro unit was invented by a company Hewitt Industries. That was over 73 years ago. 1952 to be exact. Their gauges may not be as cheap as some but they have a strong reputation among the big trucks. Here's a diagram of their gauge. https://hewittind.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/010-213-XX-X-Pyrometer-0-1600F-REV-C.pdf Their gauge and thermocouple will be a bit over $200.
 
#18 ·
My return line is leaking so I was looking to replace that anyway. The counter offer is $520 +$130 shipping. I'm not seeing anything better, so I'm probably going to take it and hope for the best. I will also order my gauge, with any luck I could have this bitch done before I put the cover on for Winter. 🤣
 
#19 ·
The gauges I am installing this winter are the Speedway Motors house brand. I bought this crazy Lolar dash insert and I've had too many other projects to fabricate it up.

I don't see a boss on this elbow, but I could still drill and tap it there. I'll know more once I've seen it.
 
#27 ·
NO...
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that is a compressor side elbow for your charge air system... here is a pic of my down pipe with the probe and digital pyro...
 
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#21 ·
Yup where the socket head pipe plug is, IF that is the exhaust elbow kinda looks like the compressor elbow from the pic.
Looking at the big pic that is for the compressor.
 
#22 ·
The seller with the kit has the turbo by itself for $266, I found that elbow above for $56 with clamp and I just need to pick up the gasket at Portland Cummins.

I am all in at $800 with intercooler and 3 way gauge. That's not terrible considering this is an upgrade and I can clean up the manifold and make it presentable.

Thanks everyone for your help with this endeavor.
 
#24 · (Edited)
The EGT probe goes in the exhaust manifold, not the air outlet. Here's a photo that shows the typical location for the probe.
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David, that price of $266 for the turbo sounds awfully cheap. Are you sure that is a genuine Holset. Just don't see that turbo under $500.
 
#30 ·
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#31 ·
I wanted to clean that pipe up anyway. 🤣

So I can run the boost gauge off the compressor manifold, weld in the exhaust bung, then I just need to make a white face for the gauge.

Intercooler gets here Friday, gauge gets here Saturday, no idea when the turbo will get here, but it should be within a week, I hope.
 
#32 ·
David, you could use the threaded port on the outlet elbow for boost. Most use one of the ports on the intake manifold on the other side of the engine. Have to remember that air outlet elbow can get very hot. Might melt your plumbing. Choice is up to you. Cummins actually recommends EGT in the post turbo position where you have the circle. Must keep in mind that the EGT at that point is lower than pre turbo. You don't want 1200 deg at the output. What gauges are you getting? The ones from Hewitt come with black or white dials, your choice. Others come in white too.