Looking interesting. Which HX30W is that?

 

The Holset that you yourself helped me find.

 

Cutterup Rob of you-tube fame has a pretty good vid on tuning up a ve, they are made for a 6bt, but no difference other than the delivery valve manifold having to more line ports, others on there also, however cutterup is a real world shop which is helpful... one suggestion I have is swapping out your stock diaphragm lift pump for a 30mm dcec piston style lp that has been modified to a high volume, low pressure by swapping out the pump spring, my hvlp pump puts out 12psi at idle, I suspect that will drop to 9psi under load and higher rpm, I put together my pump from parts bought off ebay and graingers for around $100, there are retailers selling them already modified for $200+...

 

Do you have a fan on that IC? That rock guard looks like it will stop a lot of air flow. You might have to go to a more open design. It is cool looking.

 

No fan. I to wonder about the restrictions of air flow. Time will tell. If liquid flow is any indication it won’t make any difference as this stuff is used at Axe Manufacturing in all kinds of automotive cleaning cabinets and fluid runs through it like a sieve.

 

My system for adjusting the VE pump is to start with the fuel screw and set it to desired EGT at a sustained WOT temperature that I'm comfortable with, for me that is 1,250* pre turbo. You may need to adjust idle speed at that point which could require indexing the throttle crank/lever depending on just how much fuel you add. Next move to the AFC system
to control off idle and mid throttle smoke the "smoke screw" is the one on top of the AFC housing it controls the starting position of the fuel pin and is for off idle, ideally
you want the fuel pin follower to start at the very bottom of the fuel pins taper I have found that there is a boss cast into the inner face of the AFC cover that will not allow the pin to
come all the way up and if you remove this boss you can get much more control of off idle smoke. Next is the clocking of the fuel pin the pins taper is ground off center so turning it will increase or decrease fueling over the full travel of the pin, after that there is the star wheel which controls the rate the pin moves down as boost increases. The balance between these sub systems will enable you to control fueling below WOT, it is a multi step process to get it "Right" and you may well need to revisit the fuel screw setting in this process. I would find a "test loop" that I could use to evaluate progress it is best to have a wide variety of conditions including a good interstate grade in your test loop.
You will need multiple test runs and adjustments to get it right as every change will affect your outer changes so keep notes of each change and the results and you will find that the adjustments keep getting smaller as will the changes they make, how far you take this really depends on just how OCD you are about your power to smoke ratio. It took me a couple of months to get my single turbo build where I wanted it and close to 6 months to dial in my compounds, I carried the tools to make adjustments in the truck and would even make adjustments in the field when I started getting close to the end.

 

Herein lies a problem, no AFC. It’s off a Skytrac. I’m pretty sure the fuel screw has the anti tamper sleeve spot welded on it. Rather than trying to remove it can I just remove the screw with the sleeve intact and get another screw without it? Also I noticed there is another screw opposite the idle screw which limits throttle opening. I’ve never messed with it, but at wot I can only run 2200 to 2300 rpm. Makes me think it’s not opening all the way. I think it’s got a 2500 gov spring. More stuff to consider down the road. Piping the ic is gonna take this old man a while.

 

Yes. Spoken by a man who's been there and done that. Getting it just right takes a bit of time but well worth the effort. Generally get lower EGT and better fuel economy. Now, when you get into a P pump there will some different issues. Can't have it where one size fits all. LOL.

 

Now to start playing with the fuel.

 

You also might want to consider some kind of cold air box around your air cleaner.

 

My thought exactly. Hot air will get even hotter when compressed. The colder the intake the better the engine will perform.