FYI: The math for duct construction on air/fluid coolers, requires that the air flow out of the air/fluid cooler exhaust be equivalent too air/fluid cooler intake air flow, too be the same square inches, if not, cooler efficiency goes down considerably.
The type of cooling elements (example, fin/plate) are a moot issue, the formula is the same for all types air/fluid coolers.
If the cooler has side tanks, they are not measured, only the cooling elements are.

 

It would be very difficult to do the math on my setup. The small duct feeding it at 60 mph vs the the fan drawing through a larger cooler. There would also be other things to consider like flow reduction in the duct and obstructions in the out flow. (T-Case)

It appears to be sized right base on the cooling attained.

 

The math is not difficult, in that the ducting, both in/out should be equivalent in size too the coolers fin area...from here, increasing cooler core thickness can be beneficial.
When the exhaust/intake size is mismatched in/out over coolers fin area "cooling efficiency suffers".
Try this: Square Inches of a Circle Calculator

 

Have you considered adding a water-meth injection system as a way to control egt's...? I have snows unit installed on my 12v 230hp pusher, it works great on hills and long climbs, will drop egt's 200+degrees and using the water-meth solution adds power... you might consider this as a add on to your already mods you are making...

 

Water injection is on my radar.

 

Nah don't do that. You need a tune that's safe with just diesel, boost and intercooling. Water injection is best left for sled pullers.
The amount of water required is unsustainable for normal use.

 

the snows injection is really only need for long climbs with heavy vehicles like my pusher or towing and when crossing the desert and its 110+ on flats at 65-70 don't really use it that much... just nice to have in certain situations... like Dougal mentioned, not really practical as a full time function...

 

I understand the benifits and drawbacks. If I lived closer to some mountains, I would definitely get it. Right now, I would almost never use it, so it would depend on how complicated it is to install. I have a few other things to test before I need to look at that.

 

Also consider your water supply. My well water is hard (lots of dissolved calcium compounds). It leaves deposits on my faucets and shower heads. Calcium deposits in the cylinders won't help your engine longevity.

Russ

 

you have to use distilled water or at the least ro water, I'm on a well here also, so I know what you mean, we have ro on the drinking side and a softener on the main... When I had my trucking business, I had a wash trailer to clean the trucks and would fill my 100gal tank with demineralized water at @ 0.10 a gal, I would fill up the 15 gal reservoir on the coach and and a few gal jugs as spares... crossing the I-40 from az to ca about 500mi at 100+ degrees and running 65+ on a 500 mile trip I would use about 10gals... snows recommends not using straight tap water...

 

Yesterday, I drove back home about two 6 hours in 50 degree weather. Zero problems with temps. I could drive 65 on the interstate and the water temp was 180 and about 900 EGT. Never driven that fast for that long before. If I could just get it arranged to be 50 when I’m on trips.

 

Dreaming,
Thanks for posting the thread and pictures.
I have a 4BT in a M37. I am having the same issues that you had with high EGT's. The engine has an aftercooler but that is helping very little.
How much room did you have up by your radiator; what were the dimensions of the space?
Thanks,
Dave