[dreamin]

The new reservoir is not large. (As compared to a 5 gallon bucket) Might be a gallon. I haven’t noticed any increase in temps. If I put a radiator behind the cab, I’m sure it could work good. I just don’t want one there. I’m not worried about mileage. It would be nice if it were better, but my main concern is nearly a 1000 EGT in cruise.

I have a larger IC rad coming. We’ll see.

 

[dreamin]

New parts in the mail. Here you can see the new intercooler rad next to the old one.

I wanted the new one to fit in place of the old one and even be able to swap back in if needed for some reason. But this little ring for the duct was a PITA to make the first time. So I drilled the rivets out to use in this build.

The cooler will have to be mounted sideways to fit, so the shroud is slightly different.

The mount will use the same holes as the old cooler, but I up sized them to 5/16” from 1/4”. This mount hangs off the back of the T-case crossmember. It’s made from the AR500 I used for the skid plate. PITA to drill and tap, but should be strong enough.

Shroud and cooler on mount.

Hard to take a pic. It blows on the T-case and it’s adapter.

The last thing I did was put a screen on the front of the duct. When I took the old cooler apart, I found a bunch of dragonflys smashed on the cooler. I wonder if they were blocking air flow. At least it proves I’m getting some ram air from the duct. Theair has a straight shot at it, but wasn’t sure if the axle tubes were not disturbing the airflow. If Draggonflys smash on this, I can clean them off easier.

I did a short test of the system while driving to the store to buy some electrical connectors I needed for this installation. (I rigged the connectors for the test) It appeared to lower EGTs by about 50 degrees. Half way there the temps went back up 50 degrees and I was like WTF. I checked underneath at the store and found that my rigged setup fell apart.

 

[SUBRUTUS]

FYI: The math for duct construction on air/fluid coolers, requires that the air flow out of the air/fluid cooler exhaust be equivalent too air/fluid cooler intake air flow, too be the same square inches, if not, cooler efficiency goes down considerably.
The type of cooling elements (example, fin/plate) are a moot issue, the formula is the same for all types air/fluid coolers.
If the cooler has side tanks, they are not measured, only the cooling elements are.

 

[dreamin]

It would be very difficult to do the math on my setup. The small duct feeding it at 60 mph vs the the fan drawing through a larger cooler. There would also be other things to consider like flow reduction in the duct and obstructions in the out flow. (T-Case)

It appears to be sized right base on the cooling attained.

 

[SUBRUTUS]

It would be very difficult to do the math on my setup. The small duct feeding it at 60 mph vs the the fan drawing through a larger cooler. There would also be other things to consider like flow reduction in the duct and obstructions in the out flow. (T-Case)

It appears to be sized right base on the cooling attained.

The math is not difficult, in that the ducting, both in/out should be equivalent in size too the coolers fin area...from here, increasing cooler core thickness can be beneficial.
When the exhaust/intake size is mismatched in/out over coolers fin area "cooling efficiency suffers".
Try this: Square Inches of a Circle Calculator

 

[dreamin]

The math is not difficult, in that the ducting, both in/out should be equivalent in size too the coolers fin area...from here, increasing cooler core thickness can be beneficial.
When the exhaust/intake size is mismatched in/out over coolers fin area "cooling efficiency suffers".
Try this: Square Inches of a Circle Calculator

What I was referring to is the fan moves air at a certain speed. I dare say it will be 30 mph. The duct is getting air at road speed. Obviously, a smaller duct can feed enough air if it is coming at (some) higher speed. What speed that would need to be would take a lot of math. Probably there is a (too high) speed that would be counter productive also. I’ve found that when it comes to engineering, math gets you close, but testing is the final authority. Not always the cheapest way to do it, but it gives you the best results.

In my case, figuring out the best size for the duct is not important because I dont have room to change it anyways.

 

[SUBRUTUS]

In my case, figuring out the best size for the duct is not important because I dont have room to change it anyways.

Considering the vehicles low speed, and lack of space for ducting you should be okay, time will tell...good luck with it.
If you are ever in the Daytona area, perhaps we can meet up so I see your custom rig...
Happy Thanksgiving

 

[boomersrule55]

Have you considered adding a water-meth injection system as a way to control egt's...? I have snows unit installed on my 12v 230hp pusher, it works great on hills and long climbs, will drop egt's 200+degrees and using the water-meth solution adds power... you might consider this as a add on to your already mods you are making...

 

[dreamin]

Water injection is on my radar.

 

[Dougal]

Water injection is on my radar.

Nah don't do that. You need a tune that's safe with just diesel, boost and intercooling. Water injection is best left for sled pullers.
The amount of water required is unsustainable for normal use.

 

[boomersrule55]

the snows injection is really only need for long climbs with heavy vehicles like my pusher or towing and when crossing the desert and its 110+ on flats at 65-70 don't really use it that much... just nice to have in certain situations... like Dougal mentioned, not really practical as a full time function...

 

[dreamin]

I understand the benifits and drawbacks. If I lived closer to some mountains, I would definitely get it. Right now, I would almost never use it, so it would depend on how complicated it is to install. I have a few other things to test before I need to look at that.

 

[Russ McLean]

I understand the benifits and drawbacks. If I lived closer to some mountains, I would definitely get it. Right now, I would almost never use it, so it would depend on how complicated it is to install. I have a few other things to test before I need to look at that.

Also consider your water supply. My well water is hard (lots of dissolved calcium compounds). It leaves deposits on my faucets and shower heads. Calcium deposits in the cylinders won't help your engine longevity.

Russ

 

[boomersrule55]

you have to use distilled water or at the least ro water, I'm on a well here also, so I know what you mean, we have ro on the drinking side and a softener on the main... When I had my trucking business, I had a wash trailer to clean the trucks and would fill my 100gal tank with demineralized water at @ 0.10 a gal, I would fill up the 15 gal reservoir on the coach and and a few gal jugs as spares... crossing the I-40 from az to ca about 500mi at 100+ degrees and running 65+ on a 500 mile trip I would use about 10gals... snows recommends not using straight tap water...

 

[dreamin]

Yesterday, I drove back home about two 6 hours in 50 degree weather. Zero problems with temps. I could drive 65 on the interstate and the water temp was 180 and about 900 EGT. Never driven that fast for that long before. If I could just get it arranged to be 50 when I’m on trips.

 

[Shamrocksdoc]

I promised some pics and write up.

So before my long trip, I wanted to see if I could lower my EGT numbers. As it stands, I’m at about 1000 cruising at 60 mph. That’s not great, but when I hit a hill, it’s easy to hit 1200 or more if I want to hold 60. I’m talking about Florida hills, which really aren’t hills. My trip is to the Arrondack mts. In NY. (Yes I know it’s spelled wrong)

I allready have a water/air intercooler on the truck, but it is plumbed in to the radiator. Since that water is around 150 on the cold side, it’s probably not cooling much. Some guys run a complete separate system to a little radiator. I really don’t like the idea of that because I would need an expansion tank, pressure cap and overflow tank, in addition to the cooler and fan.

I came up with the idea of pumping the engine coolent from the cold side of the rad to a new little cooler and then on to the intercooler. That way, the 150 degree water can be cooled some more right before the intercooler.

I bought this cooler / fan setup from Summit. It looks not bad for quality, but I don’t really think Derale is a good brand. I had to buy new larger fittings to plumb into my existing system.

View attachment 136154

I needed a shroud to run air to it. I had a duct from the front that dumped air in front of my radiator. I didn’t think it made much difference, so I decided to run it to this cooler. First thing to do was bend a flange. You can buy these ready made for up to 3” duct. Of course, my duct is 4 1/2”. Ive made these in the past with my bed roller. It works, but it seems there must be a better way.

This is after one minute.

View attachment 136155

This is after five minutes of hard work.

View attachment 136156

This is after half an hour and I’m ready for a drink.

View attachment 136157

I fabed this up pretty quick.

View attachment 136158

View attachment 136159

Then it was on to a mount. A couple hours of shitty welding and I have this.

View attachment 136160

It kind of looks like this. (except they weld better than me)

View attachment 136161

Anyways, all together I have this.

View attachment 136162

I bolted it to the T-case cross member and plugged the duct on. Amazingly enough, it was perfect in length. Just got it done the night before I left.

Today I drove about 300 miles. On flat ground, at 60 mph, it runs about 40 degrees colder EGT. (1020 to 980) That sure didn’t seem to be worth all the work. But I did notice that I could hit a decent sized hill and hold 60mph at 1200 EGT. That was definitely an improvement. The bigger difference was it seem like I had more power at a lower boost. For example, normally I’m running 17 psi to go 60 on flat ground. Now it will do it at 15 psi. I would say it is 2 psi less across the board. Of course, I don’t care about the boost. I just want the EGTs to go down.

 

[Shamrocksdoc]

Dreaming,
Thanks for posting the thread and pictures.
I have a 4BT in a M37. I am having the same issues that you had with high EGT's. The engine has an aftercooler but that is helping very little.
How much room did you have up by your radiator; what were the dimensions of the space?
Thanks,
Dave