Here are pics of gear train with the marks lined up with Cyl. #1 at TDC, I do not see any way for you to get it 180* out.

 

my timing marks are correct just like your picture. The pump I installed was not locked in at TDC so I'm trying to eliminate other factors. Later today I will remove the filter and check for full of fuel.

 

What symptoms are you seeing after pump install?

 

I hear mechanical noises coming from the front of the engine. Heared these noises before but I thought they were from the IP. When I removed the IP to confirm the hash marking is when I noticed the woodruff key mangled. I think the noise is coming from the cam shaft but I have not confirmed it.

 

Symptoms are signs of life but it never starts. I sprayed carb cleaner and it started but only for few seconds. Later today I will remove the filter and check for full of fuel.

 

Recently I had to change a couple pistons and rings and head gasket. (Didn’t touch timing) It was trying to start with sprayed gas. I really thought I screwed it up. Some guy in utube said that first start you need to get it started however. So I got it started and kept it running by spraying gas once a second. After what seem like an eternity (but was probably less than a minute) it started to run like shit. After another minute or so, it ran OK.

I want to stress, I did prime the fuel system and had fuel squirting at the injector caps. Can’t explain it, but I think it’s worth a try. I wouldn’t do this with starter fluid. Just regular gas in a glass cleaner bottle.

 

If it was not locked when you got it this pic shows relationship between the keyway and pump housing, here si link to page I found it on there is other info that may help located there.

Cummins 4BT – Fuel Injection Pump Timing - Diesel Engines Troubleshooting

Pump-to-engine timing is extremely critical. Pump timing that is off by only a few crankshaft degrees will cause: 1. Poor performance - starting and power. 2. Excessive smoke and emissions. 3. Poor fuel economy. Engine pump timing begins with the timing of the fuel injection pump drive gear to...

www.dieselmechanic.info

 

Here is what I do; break the fuel line at the ip inlet, prime the lp with the lever or plunger until solid fuel is present, tighten the fuel line back up, then loosen injector lines, turn key on to open fss and continue priming the lp until fuel is present at one injector, this is usually enough to purge most of the air out of the ip cavity, then I proceed to start motor with lines loose for a few revs and then close all lines... if timing is correct it will fire... most starting issues are from trapped air either in the filters, fuel manifold or ip , injector lines will clear out air quickly...

 

thank you for that... I have done what you listed. What is fss? I checked the pump mark and gear makings....

 

I'm getting fuel spray at the cracked injectors when I crank....

 

FSS is the fuel stop solenoid... did you get your motor started yet...???

 

no, not yet..... it statrs when I spray brake clean into the manifold.... then dies quickly when fuel runs out

 

timing is correct. I get fuel out from injector lines and the engine starts when I spray brake clean into the intake manifold. But then stops when that spray is burned up. What else could be the problem?

 

Fueling rate??
You could try turning the fuel screw in also increasing the throttle position with the idle screw I suppose, just be prepared for a possible runaway scenario should it happen.
Compression and fuel injected at the correct time is all it takes with a direct injected diesel, can't think of anything else to check as far as getting it to run.

 

Have you tried spraying it once a second or two to keep it running for a minute or more?

i really prefer regular gas to brake clean or either.

 

When you say you are getting fuel to the injectors how strong is it? Fuel coming from the injection pump has to be 245 bar which is 3553 PSI to fire the injector. P pump is even higher. If you crack the nozzle at the injector and only get a dribble then the pump is not providing firing pressure. Could be several issues. Likely ones are air in the fuel lines and the other is the pump solenoid is not opening to allow fuel in. Could be a bad wire or a bad valve. Are you getting a true 12 volts to that valve. Need to look at the meter when you are cranking. If it drops low then the valve won't open. If you have good voltage then the valve being bad is a possible answer. That part is not expensive but a bit difficult to replace. There could be other issues but these are the most common.

 

... and the other is the pump solenoid is not opening to allow fuel in. Could be a bad wire or a bad valve. Are you getting a true 12 volts to that valve. Need to look at the meter when you are cranking. If it drops low then the valve won't open. If you have good voltage then the valve being bad is a possible answer. That part is not expensive but a bit difficult to replace. There could be other issues but these are the most common.

I had that problem with the Grumman bread van. The +12 Volt power to the fuel shutoff solenoid was intermittent. Rather than troubleshoot an old wiring harness, I ran a new wire to switched + 12 Volts.

I suggest a quick test - Put a jumper wire from the +12 Volt battery terminal to the +12 Volt stud on the fuel shutoff solenoid. If the 4bt starts, you found the problem.

Russ

 

One thing to consider is solenoid life has more to do with on/off cycles that mileage on unit also off brand units can be pretty hit or miss as to life span.

 

Somethig else is wrong with my engine. It has chewd up the keyways on both IP. What could be causing this kind of damage? Where can I start looking?

 

Somethig else is wrong with my engine. It has chewd up the kewways on both IP. Trying to insert a pic of damaged keys but 4btswaps wont let me now.....

 

Are your keys the proper size? Those look pretty bad. Both look like they are chewed up on an angle which would make one think they are not seating correctly.

 

They are the proper size.... one of them is original from Bosch. This damage was caused on my old pump and the recent used pump I bought. There was no damage when I installed it.

 

Somethig else is wrong with my engine. It has chewd up the keyways on both IP. What could be causing this kind of damage? Where can I start looking?

 

There is also a woodruff key on the cam shaft right behind the gear. Maybe that woodruff key is also damaged..... going to see how much work is involved in that job. This would explain why it is out time..... stay tunned

 

The camshaft and gear are a interference fit requiring the gear to be preheated for 45 minuets in a 300*F oven to install properly bolt is to be heated to 350*F,
the shaft and gears bore are a straight Dia. so key damage is not as likely.
Looking at your pump keys I'd wager that they were not seated correctly in the shafts keyway and were deformed when the gear was tightened on installation,
not a totally uncommon issue with a tapered shaft/bore assy. keys are much softer than either pumps shaft or gears bore.
They make a tool to R&R cam gear but they run from $600.00 to $1,400 so not for the home mechanic doing it once or twice.
Here is a link to the heat install method.

Cummins 4BT – Camshaft Gear – Installing the Camshaft Gear - Diesel Engines Troubleshooting

Install the key. Lubricate the camshaft surface with Lubriplate 105 or equivalent. Caution: The camshaft gear will be permanently distorted if overheated. The oven temperature should never exceed 177°C I350°F]. Heat the camshaft gear for non bolted 91 ’ camshafts in an oven at 149°C [300°F] for...

www.dieselmechanic.info

You can remove the gear with camshaft out of the engine with a hydraulic press, however if you are not experienced with using a press for interference fits
there are many ways for things to south in a hurry and the gear is somewhat fragile when you apply the needed force to separate it from the shaft.
I would think whoever assembled likely did it correctly or it would have failed before now...$.02

 

Thanks for the article on removing the cam gear. Do you have an article on removing the gear and cam shaft assembly? I need to see if there is broken metal inside the cavity. My diagram shows a cam "support" and I want to see if it is damaged...... thanks

 

 

Have you investigated “Killer dowel pin”?