[paulthepilot_5]

Could you send pix of your adapter plate to block? Keep us posted…thanks

This is obviously for a 4JB1, so going to differ to a 4BD1. I had to use a belt drive JB1 timing case to enable the use of the R/H rotation 4BD1 A-Pump. The standard JB1 is gear drive but would require a L/H pump, which I didn’t have.

If it were for a 4BD1 I would run a similar design as the 4JH1 VP44 to VE pump adaptors is do (pictured below) with a flange to suit 4BD1 timing case, then 4bolt stud and counter bore to match P-7100 mounting face, this is also how I will mount the P7100 to my JB1

Nice to see people DO the CANT DO, for what ever reason.

STOCK SUCKS !

Man I tell you so many times I’ve been told I “can’t do” something, it often becomes the reason I do something. Thinking outside the box solves problems pretty easily.
I had the idea to make an adaptor for the 4JH1 VE pump conversion, eliminating the VP44. This was something that was already being done by removing the engine, swapping timing case to suit a VE pump. Was funny how many people said it would be a waste of time, how would you do that, nobody would be interested, that’s too expensive….etc etc. A few years down the track I’ve sold hundreds of conversion kits for them 😆

 

[Dougal]

The A-Pump was running +50 @ standard pop pressure. Have put +100s on since but it’s not been on a dyno or had any clean runs down the strip since (due to clutch issues) AFRs did show an increase in fueling with the bigger injectors.

Any idea how much the fuel delivery changed? I've heard people talking big fuel increases from nozzle and pop pressure changes. But no-one had even % numbers to share.

 

[paulthepilot_5]

Any idea how much the fuel delivery changed? I've heard people talking big fuel increases from nozzle and pop pressure changes. But no-one had even % numbers to share.

So just looking at the test bench figures.
With it set at 209cc with stock JB1 injectors. Going to a +50 nozzle went to 218.4cc then the +100s went to a 227.8cc

 

[Dougal]

So just looking at the test bench figures.
With it set at 209cc with stock JB1 injectors. Going to a +50 nozzle went to 218.4cc then the +100s went to a 227.8cc

That helps heaps. Call it 10% gain by doubling the injector size.

 

[JRrueda]

300hp from a 4BT with a single turbo has always been a bit of a mirage. Sure you can do it with a dyno queen, but can you do it with driveability?

I ran through the 250hp power recipe and cranked it up a bit to see what would stop us.
I kept fuelling at the 180cc/1000 shot limit you get from a VE pump. To see if that was possible.
I used the flow limits I expect from the turbo known as the HX30 Super with a 46/73mm compressor and 6cm turbine housing.
I set intercooling to 80% heat rejection View attachment 134650 .
I kept air/fuel ratio at a safe 18:1.
I used sea-level and 20C as the test conditions.
I used the same Volumetric Efficiency (VE) curves as the other power recipes (0.9 at idle dropping to 0.76 at 3000rpm).
I used the same BSFC (fuel to power) numbers as previous (min 214g/kwh at 2000rpm, 257g/kwh at 3000rpm).
RPM is naturally limited. You can't build more power past about 3000rpm.
I used the HE221 compressor map for flow, but the HX30 Super will have higher boost capacity.
I used 65% compressor efficiency (we are going up the surge line, across the top and to the edges)
I used

Here's what I found:
36psi boost is about right. Less will give you smoke, more will waste power.
180cc/1000 shots isn't quite enough fuel.
Driveability will be okay.
Max torque is pretty flat from 1700-2300rpm.
Max power is about 3100rpm.
Compressor is tapped out for flow at max power.
EGT will be high but safe.

Some numbers:
2000rpm torque: 818Nm (603ft-lb).
3000rpm power: 213kw (285hp) after accounting for drive pressure losses.
36psi boost from 1700rpm to defuel just after 3000rpm.
Drive pressure equal to boost at 2000rpm, tapering to +12psi (48psi total) at 3000rpm.
A/F ratios 21:1 at 1700rpm tapering to 18:1 at 3000rpm.
Fuelling: 180cc/1000 shots at your actual injectors (test bed injectors can be different).
Air Filter: 500CFM (36lb/min).
Turbo shaft power: 52kw.
Intercooler heat rejection: 41kw.

So how do you actually get 300hp with a single turbo?
You need either a custom built VE pump with bigger plungers or a P pump.
You need a turbo that's 48-50mm intake but still spools well. I haven't found one but I haven't looked that hard.

Compounds will be easier, cleaner and have plenty of head-room for altitude.

Here's a pretty picture, torque on the left, everything else on the right axis:
View attachment 134650


View attachment 134649

Greetings friends, I am very interested in mounting a 4bt in my Patrol Y61, here in my country you can get new engines but they are made in China and they come with a BYC brand linear pump. I wanted to know if with that pump and a Super HX30 turbo it is possible to get close to 300hp?
I add photos of the engine and appreciate your help

 

[Dougal]

Greetings friends, I am very interested in mounting a 4bt in my Patrol Y61, here in my country you can get new engines but they are made in China and they come with a BYC brand linear pump. I wanted to know if with that pump and a Super HX30 turbo it is possible to get close to 300hp?
I add photos of the engine and appreciate your help

I can't remember the exact numbering scheme, but that pump may have 12mm plungers. Which should be plenty of fuel capacity for 300hp.

How well it's built and how long it will last with 300hp is another question.

 

[JRrueda]

I can't remember the exact numbering scheme, but that pump may have 12mm plungers. Which should be plenty of fuel capacity for 300hp.

How well it's built and how long it will last with 300hp is another question.

I plan to do what you suggest to achieve this, but apart from that, do I have to consider things like ARP screws? Camshaft? and some other things?

 

[char1355]

You won't likely get to 300 HP with a single turbo. You need twins. The ideal set I believe is the 44mm secondary HX30W mated to a HX35W primary with the 14CM exhaust. You may have that HX30W on the engine now. That last one is kind of rare so most guys use the HX35W with the 12CM exhaust here in the USA. That turbo is as common as dirt here. How long it will last depends on how you treat it. Not sure how that injection pump compares to the old Bosch P7100. At that power level, I'd recommend head studs and one size larger injectors. You'll need 5x.012 units for 300 HP. A little a adjustment to the injection pump and turbo and you're there. You are reaching the point where you may need the head O ringed. 40 PSI boost may be the limit on an engine without adding O rings and you may need a tad more for 300 HP. Also, plan for a very good intake breathing system. 300 HP takes a lot more air than 140 HP which is probably stock on that engine.

 

[boomersrule55]

just curious what transmission will you be using for your patrol...??? with 300hp you will be pushing into the 700ftlb range...

 

[JRrueda]

just curious what transmission will you be using for your patrol...??? with 300hp you will be pushing into the 700ftlb range...

Hb233

 

[JRrueda]

You won't likely get to 300 HP with a single turbo. You need twins. The ideal set I believe is the 44mm secondary HX30W mated to a HX35W primary with the 14CM exhaust. You may have that HX30W on the engine now. That last one is kind of rare so most guys use the HX35W with the 12CM exhaust here in the USA. That turbo is as common as dirt here. How long it will last depends on how you treat it. Not sure how that injection pump compares to the old Bosch P7100. At that power level, I'd recommend head studs and one size larger injectors. You'll need 5x.012 units for 300 HP. A little a adjustment to the injection pump and turbo and you're there. You are reaching the point where you may need the head O ringed. 40 PSI boost may be the limit on an engine without adding O rings and you may need a tad more for 300 HP. Also, plan for a very good intake breathing system. 300 HP takes a lot more air than 140 HP which is probably stock on that engine.

We are thinking of building the engine in the following way: we are going to change the camshaft for the Colt Cams Stage 3, HX30 Super turbo, we are not sure if we should modify the BYC pump or buy a 280hp kit that includes high flow lines and Weifu injectors and use the entire front intercooler system, how many hp do you think we could get close to with these changes?

 

[Dougal]

We are thinking of building the engine in the following way: we are going to change the camshaft for the Colt Cams Stage 3, HX30 Super turbo, we are not sure if we should modify the BYC pump or buy a 280hp kit that includes high flow lines and Weifu injectors and use the entire front intercooler system, how many hp do you think we could get close to with these changes?

All the specs you need are in the first post: https://www.4btswaps.com/posts/1084146/

HX30 will be running out of puff. Cam won't really help. Porting the head would. Send the pump to an injection shop and ask if it can do 200cc/1000 shots.

 

[Dirt]

It's pretty much a given fact that if you want to do 300 HP on a 4bt you need twin turbos. Now a 6bt could do it with a single but you've got 50% more engine there.

33% I think

 

[Dougal]

33% I think

50% more or 33% less.