• Use the existing 5.4L radiator This will work around town in the summer, not sure about when towing
  
• 6.0 intercooler, some hardware to go with it 6.0 or 7.3, doesn't really matter, the 6.0 is slightly more effecient
  
• 6.0 fan shroud and fan The 6.0 shroud will not fit the 5.4 radiator, too tall
  
• Second SD passenger side battery tray and hold down, install both on drivers side. Having done this both ways, I would recommend you install a 2nd passenger tray on the driver side and run a
  set of reversed 6.0/7.3 cables. Both on one side is a bit of a headache in its own way.
  
• Run the Dodge alternator with an external voltage regulator.
  
• Ford Cummins mount kit
  
• Ford Cummins radiator hose kit dont really need it, a stock 7.3 lower hose and 5.9 dodge hose can be spliced to work on the bottom, top hose is a stock dodge piece.
  
• Air dog lift pump **Any better ideas?
  
• Southbend clutch and flywheel. Already have the G56 Dodge hydraulic parts.
  
• 03-07.5 common rail exhaust manifold and if easy to find HE351cw turbo, otherwise stock turbo
  
• tach sensor/adapter From Destroked,
  
• Edge programmer CTS, for Gauges, Diagnostics, and Power.
  
• oil light can use an older small block chevy sensor this doesnt work easily, you have to install a relay to make it work. The for unit will screw in with an adapter.
  
• stock dodge Upper water neck
  
• Downpipe and 4" exhaust system, MBRP with a CR down pipe, and a ford 4" kit
  
• use the stock Dodge A/C manifold, with hose ends spliced
  
• Air filter kit ** From who? would like cold air inlet and not just a cone filter under the hood This is pretty much a custom only thing, a 4" cone filter will fit between the passenger battery and
  heater box, heat shielding/ducting is up to the builder
  
• Driveshafts modification
  
• dowel pin fix, engine seals, manifold studs and gaskets, and other preventive maintenance while engine is out
  

Grigg

Tips from my experiences. You will also need a new input shaft for your transfercase to fit the dodge trans.

 

I'd suggest using the air filter from the Dodge if you can find a place to fit it on the passenger side. Look at how the Dodge is configured regarding air filter, radiator overflow/reservoir, and windshield washer tanks. IMO, the Dodge box type air filter is decent. As an alternative, maybe a round cylinder air filter from a tractor/generator.

 

Thanks roachie, you continue to be a wealth of knowledge.

Question on the oil pressure light. Do you know what sort of adapter is necessary and where to get one, or is it a standard plumbing item and quite obvious when we get to it?

The input shaft for the transfer case, can we just pull and swap the shaft from the Dodge transfer case currently behind the automatic over to the ford transfer case? I'm not sure if they're the same or are new parts necessary or simpler?

Making the Ford gas tank into diesel and using aftermarket lift pump/filter. Can someone please describe what if anything is necessary to do to the tank?
I'd also like to remove the very likely clogged charcoal contraption on the vent as it often fills real slow... that is supposed to cause a check engine light, so is an engine swap right?

What to do about the check engine light?



I think ongoing the best way to keep track of all this advice, parts, steps, and info is to continually update and add to this check list. So here's the next version trying to keep like things in order and highlighting any remaining questions or clarification needed.

• List version 12-5-13
• Complete 6.0 intercooler, radiator, fan, and shroud with necessary hardware to install in previously gas truck
• Second (gas?) SD passenger side battery tray and hold down to use on the drivers side, use 6.0/7.3 cables or make new.
• stock dodge Upper water neck
• Radiator hoses, stock 7.3 lower hose and 5.9 dodge hose spliced to work on the bottom, top hose is a stock dodge piece. (part numbers?)
• Air dog lift pump (Any better idea/brand?)
• Southbend clutch and flywheel. Already have the G56 Dodge hydraulic parts.
• New input shaft for Ford transfer case (or reuse Dodge input shaft?)
• 03-07.5 common rail exhaust manifold and if easy to find HE351cw turbo, otherwise stock turbo (need to modify or replace waste gate actuator to clear, use spring type??)
• Downpipe and 4" exhaust system, MBRP with a CR down pipe, and a ford 4" kit
• Tach sensor/adapter From Destroked,
• Ford Cummins mount kit
• Edge programmer CTS with dash pod for the SD. Use for Gauges, Diagnostics, and Power.
• Run the Dodge alternator with an external voltage regulator. (Source or part number?)
• oil light use ford sender with an adapter.
• use the stock Dodge A/C manifold, with hose ends spliced
• Air filter, on my own, likely a 4" cone filter between the passenger battery and heater box or use one from the Dodge?
• Driveshafts modification
• Dowel pin fix, engine seals, manifold studs and gaskets, and other preventive maintenance while engine is out
• Remove transmission oil cooler/warmer from engine (Do I need parts to do so?)
• Bosch 275hp RV injectors

 

Question on the oil pressure light. Do you know what sort of adapter is necessary and where to get one, or is it a standard plumbing item and quite obvious when we get to it?

I can't recall the exact size, the ford sensor is metric oring....basically just a metric thread. The block is 1/8npt though. Be sure to use the locations in the driver's side of the engine below the tappet cover.

The input shaft for the transfer case, can we just pull and swap the shaft from the Dodge transfer case currently behind the automatic over to the ford transfer case? I'm not sure if they're the same or are new parts necessary or simpler?

That will work, didnt see that you had the dodge case.

Making the Ford gas tank into diesel and using aftermarket lift pump/filter. Can someone please describe what if anything is necessary to do to the tank?
I'd also like to remove the very likely clogged charcoal contraption on the vent as it often fills real slow... that is supposed to cause a check engine light, so is an engine swap right?

Two ways to go about that, the easiest is to buy a fuel sump like this and just install it. Otherwise, I would just buy a diesel fuel tank with the pickup/sending unit. Its not worth the trouble trying to make a gasoline unit work (I've done it) Also, since the FASS/AirDog will have a new fuel line, use the oem Ford pressure line for the return. And don't forget to knock the reducer out of your filler neck so a diesel nozzle will fit.

What to do about the check engine light?

Take the cluster appart and either de-solder the LED or take a sharpie and color over it.



I think ongoing the best way to keep track of all this advice, parts, steps, and info is to continually update and add to this check list. So here's the next version trying to keep like things in order and highlighting any remaining questions or clarification needed.

• List version 12-5-13
• Complete 6.0 intercooler, radiator, fan, and shroud with necessary hardware to install in previously gas truck
• Second (gas?) SD passenger side battery tray and hold down to use on the drivers side, use 6.0/7.3 cables or make new. Best of my knowledge the gas and diesel uses the same tray.
• stock dodge Upper water neck
• Radiator hoses, stock 7.3 lower hose and 5.9 dodge hose spliced to work on the bottom, top hose is a stock dodge piece. (part numbers?)Just use a generic search at your local parts place. 99-03 for the 7.3, 94-02 for rest.
• Air dog lift pump (Any better idea/brand?)Them or FASS, cant go wrong with either. Just get the kit with hoses for a 98-02 Dodge
• Southbend clutch and flywheel. Already have the G56 Dodge hydraulic parts.
• New input shaft for Ford transfer case (or reuse Dodge input shaft?)
• 03-07.5 common rail exhaust manifold and if easy to find HE351cw turbo, otherwise stock turbo (need to modify or replace waste gate actuator to clear, use spring type??)The bracket will not clear on the stock HX35, will need to be fabbed or replaced
• Downpipe and 4" exhaust system, MBRP with a CR down pipe, and a ford 4" kit
• Tach sensor/adapter From Destroked,
• Ford Cummins mount kit
• Edge programmer CTS with dash pod for the SD. Use for Gauges, Diagnostics, and Power.
• Run the Dodge alternator with an external voltage regulator. (Source or part number?)FOPZ-10316-A
• oil light use ford sender with an adapter.
• use the stock Dodge A/C manifold, with hose ends spliced
• Air filter, on my own, likely a 4" cone filter between the passenger battery and heater box or use one from the Dodge?
• Driveshafts modification
• Dowel pin fix, engine seals, manifold studs and gaskets, and other preventive maintenance while engine is out
• Remove transmission oil cooler/warmer from engine (Do I need parts to do so?)Will need a 3/4NPTM to 5/8 hose barb 90* fitting
• Bosch 275hp RV injectors

I would add that you will need to make sure the dodge hydraulics have the firewall plate, and the hose will not be long enough. Use thesehttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-139026 and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-139027 with a made up hose will fix that. This will involve some minor fab work to get the dodge master on the firewall. The OEM dodge kit will come with a firewall plate, knock the studs out and slot one of the holes. The next step is cutting away one of the corners inside the plate to allow the master to index correctly. It will make sense when you get one in your hand.

The OEM dodge Air box will not fit unless you place both batteries on one side. AFE makes nice filters and filterbags, I highly recomend those combos.

 

Air Dog is an excellent choice.

Most SBC clutches require a heavy duty hydraulic set up, I would give Peter a call and explain your set up to him!

You may not need to fix the dowel pin the newer gear covers captured the pin.

Be sure to pull the gasoline sock off the fuel pick up in the fuel tank they are too fine for diesel fuel. You'll have to provide for a fuel return to the tank so that will be the perfect time to remove it.

 

Great, I'll update the list later today.

Just looked at all kinds of fuel sumps and I would prefer one that uses several bolts instead of just one. Looks like the XDP item number XD131 is a good choice.

Thanks,
Grigg

 

Did a lot of research today and it's still plenty confusing, not confident I'll have enough info and parts pulled together to make it go smoothly.
What I'm finding and understand is there are several ways to do most of this and I haven't done any of them; so difficult for me to figure which is best. Also a given solution may work or not work because of some other choice about the conversion. I don't have my head wrapped around all the possibilities and consequences enough to predict these conflicts. I've never worked on a Cummins or a SD truck. In some ways I wish a 4-53T Detroit were going in then I'd know and understand most all the possibilities...

Already removed filler reducer in an earlier attempt to get it to fill at a reasonable speed.
Can I do the "Harpoon mod" http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/harpoon.php on the existing "gas tank", is it similar enough to the diesel?
Any advice/info on the tank vent situation?

• List version 12-6-13
• Complete 6.0 intercooler, radiator, fan, and shroud with necessary hardware to install in previously gas truck
• Second SD passenger side battery tray and hold down to use on the drivers side, use 6.0/7.3 cables or make new.
• Radiator hoses, stock 99-03 7.3 lower hose and 94-02 5.9 dodge hose spliced to work on the bottom. Top hose is a stock dodge 94-02 with existing upper water neck
• Air dog 150 lift pump kit with hoses for a 98-02 Dodge
• XDP fuel sump
• Use old fuel suction line as return, remove filter/screen
• Southbend clutch and flywheel.
• Already have the G56 Dodge hydraulic parts, or get upgraded kit from Southbend. Will need OEM dodge firewall plate
• Reuse Dodge transfer case input shaft in the Ford case
• 03-07.5 common rail exhaust manifold (and if easy to find HE351cw turbo.) Most likely use stock turbo and modify or replace waste gate actuator bracket to clear.
• Downpipe and 4" exhaust system, MBRP with a CR down pipe, and a ford 4" kit
• Tach sensor/adapter From Destroked, Somewhere I read that might be as simple as sensor picking up 4 slots on stock balancer, need to figure that out)
• Ford Cummins mount kit
• Edge programmer CTS with dash pod for the SD. Use for Gauges, Diagnostics, and Power.
• Run the Dodge alternator with an external voltage regulator part number FOPZ-10316-A
• oil light use ford sender with an adapter.
• use the stock Dodge A/C manifold, with hose ends spliced
• cruise control, need anything?
• Air filter, on my own, likely a 4" cone filter (AFE) between the passenger battery and heater box
• Driveshafts modification
• Dowel pin fix, engine seals, manifold studs and gaskets, and other preventive maintenance while engine is out
• Remove transmission oil cooler/warmer from engine replace with 3/4NPTM to 5/8 hose barb 90* fitting
• Bosch 275hp RV injectors

 

The tach sensor, I've done it with 4 notches in the oem balancer and the tack will work but it isnt accurate. The kit with the wheel is better by a mile but not as smooth as stock.

I'm not sure if your truck is fly by wire or has a cable throttle body, if cable you have to relocate the cruise unit to the driver side and install just make the cable fit the dodge APPS. If it is fly by wire their is a write up on how to wire in an oem cruise unit.

Are you going to be doing the swap yourself or having a shop do it? Its not that bad of job, if you are a good backyard mechanic and a decent fabricator that is. Really, the only fab work is the intercooler pipes and some misc brackets. I will highly recommend you replace all the seals/gaskets on the engine while it is out, and overhaul the vacuum pump.

 

Tach kit noted.

The Ford is fly by wire. I'm still researching what to do there, sounds like a slightly older gas SD used a cable and I'll need that pedal setup.
Can you point me to the cruise control solution?

I was originally planing to do the conversion myself but just plain don't have time. I haven't even worked on my own truck project in months... well realistically over a year. This Cummins conversion is my Dad's truck and he uses it at least weekly, by having a shop do it we're expecting some down time for sure but with luck very little.

The Cummins is going in the shop next week to prep it for the swap, new gaskets and seals are already on the list. I'll add the vacuum pump to the list, Is it necessary with only 107K miles?

Grigg

 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cummins-conversions-shop-talk-tools-fabrication/468356-how-put-cruise-control-your-fummins-superduty.html

99-04 5.4 and 6.8 used a pedal with a cable, it bolts right on and the hole in firewall is already there.

The vacuum pump, usually start leaking around 150k. The kit to reseal them is about $20 and real simple to install, its a good PM thing.

Just make sure the shop has done this sort of swap before, I had to finish one a local shop got ahold of and screwed up horribly. Actually, I never did get that truck 100% as they had screwed it up so badly.

 

From your post #4, What to do about the check engine light?

I took the bulb out to take care of that problem.

 

The shop I've know for years now, they have helped some with my conversion and have done numerous Detroit conversions in pickups, I've seen the work and am pleased with it. They have many parts in stock and are proficient working on Cummins too though haven't done any Cummins into Ford conversions yet. Though they may not be the fastest for this conversion they're talented, I know them well, enjoy working with them, and trust that they'll do a good job.

Yesterday I found a 6.0L intercooler and pipes on craigslist for $50, guy pulled it at 34k to install a performance one.
Already ordered the fuel sump, a new radiator, and just about done ordering clutch, programmer, lift pump, and tach sensor.
Next to order is the mounts and some little parts and another order for the tach kit.
Still need to find a few used SD parts including a gas pedal and fan shroud.

Last night we started the Dodge and drove it over to my place, getting ready for it's final run down the road Monday morning.

• List version 12-12-13
• Complete 6.0 intercooler, radiator, fan, and shroud with necessary hardware to install in previously gas truck
• gas pedal (with a cable) from 99-04 5.4 and 6.8
• Second SD passenger side battery tray and hold down to use on the drivers side, use 6.0/7.3 cables or make new.
• Radiator hoses, stock 99-03 7.3 lower hose and 94-02 5.9 dodge hose spliced to work on the bottom. Top hose is a stock dodge 94-02 with existing upper water neck
• Air dog 150 lift pump kit with hoses for a 98-02 Dodge
• XDP fuel sump
• Use old fuel suction line as return, remove filter/screen
• Southbend clutch and flywheel.
• Already have the G56 Dodge hydraulic parts, or get upgraded kit from Southbend. Will need OEM dodge firewall plate
• Reuse Dodge transfer case input shaft in the Ford case
• 03-07.5 common rail exhaust manifold (and if easy to find HE351cw turbo.) Most likely use stock turbo and modify or replace waste gate actuator bracket to clear.
• Downpipe and 4" exhaust system, MBRP with a CR down pipe, and a ford 4" kit
• Tach sensor/adapter From Destroked
• Ford Cummins mount kit
• Edge programmer CTS with dash pod for the SD. Use for Gauges, Diagnostics, and Power.
• Run the Dodge alternator with an external voltage regulator for older Chrystler
• oil light use ford sender with an adapter.
• use the stock Dodge A/C manifold, with hose ends spliced
• cruise control, need servo from most any model gas ford. Instructions
• Air filter, on my own, likely a 4" cone filter (AFE) between the passenger battery and heater box
• Driveshafts modification
• Remove check engine light
• Dowel pin fix, engine seals, manifold studs and gaskets, reseal vacuum pump, and other preventive maintenance while engine is out
• Remove transmission oil cooler/warmer from engine replace with 3/4NPTM to 5/8 hose barb 90* fitting
• Bosch 275hp RV injectors, probably not anytime soon

 

Grigg, on your fuel tank, I'd try to find a diesel tank set up in the salvage yard and swap tanks. You also would want the diesel filler spout. Instead of modifying the gas tank just swap parts. Could even sell your gas tank and fuel pump assembly. I like bolting on stuff instead of modifying.

 

I'll keep an eye out for a cheap diesel tank but without one it seems pretty simple to make the gas tank work. Either way I like the idea of a sump and have already ordered this one. http://www.xtremediesel.com/xdpblackanodizeddieselfueltanksumpkit-notankdropinstall.aspx
The gas filler neck has already had the nozzle reducer removed, no need to swap it now.
In any case the tank should come out to remove the trash from installing the sump, and it sounds easy to adapt the old gas feed line to be the new return line.

Next issue is exhaust parts.
I'll be ordering a 4" exhaust system for the Ford and a 4" down pipe suitable, or at least best guess, for the Cummins with the existing HX35W turbo mounted on an 03-07.5 commonrail manifold which puts it low and rearward.

This is what the existing outlet on the turbo is (not my picture) and I suspect it won't work in the new location.

This is one solution, cost $175 and comes with part of a down pipe, not sure the size.

Another idea that I don't think this exact one will fit, they say it won't and looks like the bottom two bolt holes are off... http://www.ebay.com/itm/161144509570?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Anyone know of a similar one that will work and for a price less than the kit from fordcummins?

And here's another idea that I do like (except for the price, any better source?) it is for a 4" down pipe. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321144786234?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

sorry for the huge pictures.

What are y'alls thoughts and with whatever solution is best which dodge down pipe should I get with the exhaust kit?

Thanks,
Grigg

 

... Either way I like the idea of a sump and have already ordered this one. http://www.xtremediesel.com/xdpblackanodizeddieselfueltanksumpkit-notankdropinstall.aspx

The link states: "...the XDP Fuel Sump fastens to the bottom of the tank and dramatically increases volume to the fuel pump by allowing you to get every drop of fuel out of the tank."

This worries me a bit... Does this imply that every drop of water and every bit of trash hits your pump first? Maybe some sort of water separating filter between the tank and the pump?

Russ

 

Yep, being at the very bottom it'll also collect water and trash. Part of the AirDog lift pump is a fuel water separator and filter. http://www.pureflowairdog.com/how-airdog-works.php


More progress made already. The HX35W turbo compressor outlet is an aluminum casting that clamps to the compressor housing and something like 73° bend in it.
Here's a thread with other options http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?13346-Different-Compressor-outlets-for-HX35-s
Ford cummins sells this 90° elbow as an aid to fitting the Cummins in the Ford http://dieselconversion.com/catalog/Conversion-Friendly-Parts/90-Degree-Turbo-Outlet-Elbow-1616

Jeff at Mumau Diesel has the cummins 3" 90° elbow number 3918685 for about half that price (without the clamp), so ordered one of those along with the other goodies from him.

He also said the flat exhaust outlet option fits a 3" down pipe flange, the 4" is not available that he knows of. So that fancy stainless one might be the only full 4" option (without reducing the pipe at the turbo to fit a smaller flange).

Grigg

 

Yep, being at the very bottom it'll also collect water and trash. Part of the AirDog lift pump is a fuel water separator and filter. http://www.pureflowairdog.com/how-airdog-works.php

That should work very well.

 

This all looks good.
FYI, Longbow Don knocked off the airdog design with a DIY version in his 4BD1T FJ60. See post 65 in the link below:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/480289-diesel-conversion-isuzu-4bd1t-4.html

 

Thanks for the link on the fuel filter/pump setup.

Just ordered the motor mounts from Diesel Conversion Specialist
http://dieselconversion.com/catalog...atalog/Engine-Mounts/Mount-Set-1999-2007-Ford-with-1989-2002-6-cylinder-Cummins
I think most everything else I have already covered with exception of a few ford parts and the exhaust.

I was expecting to get the wiring and other helpful instructions from DCS but they only come if you get a whole "kit" with adapter plate and other stuff, and they didn't want to send or sell the instructions otherwise.

So, where do I go to find out about the wiring necessary?

Thanks,
Grigg

 

Just ordered the motor mounts from Diesel Conversion Specialist
http://dieselconversion.com/catalog...atalog/Engine-Mounts/Mount-Set-1999-2007-Ford-with-1989-2002-6-cylinder-Cummins

Those mounts look like a ripoff of the FordCummins.com mounts.

Same folks, they just changed their name from "Ford Cummins" to "Diesel Conversion Specialist"

Planning on the 3" outlet with V band to 4" pipe, I agree for this truck it's not worth the money for a 4" outlet. Working with a fellow forum member on an exhaust system, it should be finalized next week.

I'll add the oil drain to the list, and make new feed line.

I haven't found any detailed instructions on the DCS (Ford Cummins) or Destroked websites. Just talked to the folks at DCS today and they won't send or sell me instructions; I didn't order enough parts from them. I ordered the tach kit from Destroked but haven't asked about instructions for the rest of the wiring.

Feeling better about this swap lately, having now tracked down and ordered all the big and or expensive stuff it looks like the puzzle will come together and is supposed to work. Just a few little pieces left to go.

Grigg

 

Have you talked to Dawna or Ken at Autoworld yet?

http://www.cumminsdieselrepowers.com/Contact_Us.html

 

A common rail exhaust manifold might not match up with the 24V exhaust ports. It isn't the world's best match on a 12V.

For cruise, I would consider a GM cable drive unit. They are simple to wire up, reliable as heck, and cheap.

 

No, haven't talked to anyone at autoworld yet, what in particular should I talk to them about? I did look over their site and didn't see any additional parts that I haven't already sourced.

I thought the 24V and the common rail both have round exhaust ports and the manifold is a good swap; the 12V are square?

Grigg

 

Mainly for information they are pretty fourth coming on information should you have the need...

 

Those mounts look like a ripoff of the FordCummins.com mounts. FC and destroked both have wiring diagrams/instruction manuals.

The turbo will kinda work that way, the wastegate actuator will have to be removed. Earlier hx's on the 12v trucks had an exhaust outlet with no integrated elbow, it is still just a 3" outlet with a Vband, the elbow was separate. Really, I doubt the gain is there to justify a 4" outlet on the HX35's.

I did forget, you will need the common rail oil drain to use the CR manifold. And the oil feed line will need to be custom made.

CR and 24V have the same exhaust ports, 12v is square.

 

Subbed. This truck is going to be a really nice combo of parts.

 

The Dodge started instantly at about 30°F this morning and made it 220 miles up the road to the shop. I wasn't along for the ride but they said it ran and drove like a good truck except for the worn front end.
The Cummins comes out this week, new parts are already arriving, and with the 5.4L growing weaker and weaker by the week we're looking forward to having a much nicer truck than what the Ford has been lately.

Grigg

 

Dropped the Ford off at the shop today.
The Cummins is looking good, almost ready to install.

Learned a neat trick today. Earlier I had asked the guys at the shop to swap the dodge valve cover for a plain Cummins one if they had a used one. Looking at the engine today looked like they had a new valve cover on... but they just milled the "Dodge" part off, looks very nice and a cheap/simple solution.

Truck will likely be done in a couple weeks.

Grigg

 

The ford engine is out now and I have a few questions/research projects to help the guys move along more efficiently.

Trying to find instructions on disassembling and reassembling the Ford (and Dodge) NV-271 transfer case. No luck so far in my online searches, anyone have a link to a manual, perhaps an 05 ford service manual?

Also looking for more detail on what wiring is needed between the 24V and the Ford truck. I know it's pretty basic but some info would still be helpful. Did find a whole wiring diagram the important ones are in there somewhere..

We ordered the tach kit from Destroked but it came with no literature or instructions, we'll call and see what info the have if any. In the meantime installing it looks self explanatory but I don't know about the wiring to the Ford engine harness? Assuming it mimics a cam or crank sensor, just 2 wires, any more details on how/where to connect it? EDIT found this, might be all I need. http://www.destroked.com/pdfs/Tach_Sensor.pdf

Looking for the 6.0L fan shroud I'm hearing that there might be differences depending on which radiator or alternator. If there are different ones which shroud should I be looking for to go with the new/replacement 6.0L radiator for the 05 SD?

Thanks,
Grigg

 

Grigg do you have access to Alldata? It maybe somewhat helpful on finding relations between the two engine harnesses and how their circuits operate


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