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Discussion Starter #501
Back from the dead.

Had a buddy come over today and help me get the truck out of the garage where it has been for the last year or so. Shop is finally finished and time to move the truck to its new home while we remove the front clip and pull the 6BT.

When the truck was housed outside...we had a huge storm that blew the hood up and moved all the cardboard, towels, etc that was covering the engine. Some things got wet and dust and dirt were everywhere. That is when I STOPPED working on it. I was able to get the truck to the garage for the start of the compound turbo build...but ran out of $$ and motivation. Then my pops passed away. Even more reason to not work on anything.

Now that the shop is done, it was time to move the big blue beast and get back to work.

I am not sure that the Cummins needs a rebuild...BUT...while I am at this point...I might as well tear it down and at least do bearings and clean it up. Who knows if there is any dirt in there from the outside incident. Better to be safe than sorry. I buddy in my Jeep club just took his 6bt to this locak machine shop that has been around for ages (and does tons of diesels, tractors etc) and his 300,000 mile rotary pump engine did NOT need to be bored at all. Break the glaze, polish the crank and new rings, bearings etc and he was on the way. I am expecting that my supposed 180,000 mile engine will be the same.

Pics of the truck in its new home and my buddies 225 v6 Willys that towed it into the shop.



 

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Nice shop!! Sorry about loosing Pops, lost mine two years ago and we were always in the shop working on something together so getting motivated to work on anything is tough after such a great loss. It does get better.
 

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Discussion Starter #503
Nice shop!! Sorry about loosing Pops, lost mine two years ago and we were always in the shop working on something together so getting motivated to work on anything is tough after such a great loss. It does get better.
Thanks for the words FTE. Sorry to hear about your Pops too. Ran out of money, time, patience, room in the garage, then ended up with all the stuff from my dads. Time to go balls out and get **** done. Some say laughter is the best medicine...well, working on your junk on the shop made possible by your pops is pretty good too! Think about him every time i walk in the door...Wish he was around to enjoy it too! Can't wait to dive into 65 Elky and finish that too! Too many projects, too little time!!

Jim
 

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just read through this whole thread, got to say theres a lot of useful information here. hoping to start my swap soon and i'll be coming back to re-read some stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #505
Getting some work accomplished. Pulled the front clip off. Hood first, then the fenders, followed by the core support.








I have been asked about the mounts from Crewcab59 and how they supposedly don't work or fit right...there were some others that have started threads and had 'issues' with the engine not sitting right. I am here to tell you that they DO work right. If memory serves, the problem is with the POLY mounts and the locations of the metal 'tabs' in the mount. In this picture you can see how the whole thing should fit together. BTW. I am using rubber mounts inside the factory clam shells.





Here is another picture of the bell housing to firewall area. I had to hit the firewall with a ball peen a few times to get it just right. Nothing major.



You can see that I have drilled holes in the firewall bell housing area. That is so you can reach the heads of the upper two bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine/trans adapter plate.



In the above picture you can see the wooden dowels used to hold the lifters up off the cam when doing a cam swap. WHY am I doing this AGAIN....well it seems that I had forgotten to install the cam retainer when I put the new Hamilton cam in. Had to pull the rocker studs, push rods and lift up all the lifters so I could slide the cam out an inch or two and install the retainer. Then what happened you ask? One of the damn lifters came off the dowel and fell into the pan. Reason 237 that the truck went into mothballs.

If you are going to run the DODGE Sanden compressor for AC, like I am...you have to notch the front crossmember to make it fit. No big deal and your truck frame is not going to fold in half. I did this with the engine in the truck. It was a pain in the a$$. DO this BEFORE you put the whole thing together...with fenders and sheet metal. You will thank me.



I will clean this up.

Had to make a bit of clearance for the Dampner.



NOW...to get the engine out...without pulling the trans...I needed a bit more room to come forward. So I took a sawzall...coolest tool on earth...and trimmed the folded over lip on the crossmember.



Again, I will use the grinder and clean this up.
 

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Discussion Starter #506
On my 1988 V30, the proportioning valve is on the back side of the front crossmember. What a pain to get to and work on if you need to replace it or to replace brake lines.



Looks like I have a problem here.



Not sure when that went down...but it may be the reason that I have NO fluid in the front res of the master, and NO brakes at all.

Why YES I DO have one of those engine tilty things...it is in the box in the bed of the truck. FYI...next time get a longer chain.



Engine on the ground ready to squish that tire



Not sure how the sunflower seed shells got there...



Probably from the guy that decided to make a condo out of my heater box



Side was cut out to try and make room for my custom twins. That will either be covered OR it will come out in favor of a Vintage Air setup.

Back to the garage to pull the Southbend clutch and flywheel. Then off to the machine shop

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #507
Stopped by the machine shop after work today. They had the engine town down and was sitting on the table ready to be magnafluxed. The Head was disassembled and there was surface rust on all of the intake seats. Each valve had been marked with its v depth from the head surface. The highest was .058 recession and lowest in the head was .063. Lowest meaning farthest from the head to block mating surface.

Zach at hamilton recommends minimum of .055 valve face depth with the 188/220 cam that I have.

I had stopped by to see if they had the fixture to cut O-rings in the head. They did not. He said that they usually have someone else do that.

On the table next to my head was a head off a huge Cat engine. 4 valves per cylinder and it was longer and twice as wide as the 6bt head. Wish I remembered to take a pic. He said it was a new head and not cheap. LOL

Ok, back to my engine.

Nothing crazy in the cylinders, just as I had seen when I had the head off a year and a half ago. They said they would get back on it on Monday.

Now to continue my turbo and injector searching.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #508
Picture of the engine on the trailer headed down to the shop



Update from the machine shop.


All is well with the engine. NO overbore needed. Ball honed and will get new standard rings. Crank will polish out fine. Standard bearings on the mains. Rods were good too.


Head that was done by another shop in town was good too.

Will get a new oil pump and new rod bolts.

Looking just south of 2K for all the work and parts.

I pulled the factory AC off the firewall and will go with a new Gen 4 Vintage air setup. Less crap in the way for my turbo(s). Yes, I know that you can do it with that big dog house on the firewall...just decided to bite the bullet.

Here is the firewall with NO junk on it....



Well, there is junk to clean off, but the AC stuff is gone. Plenty of room for 2 or 3 turbos now. Kidding.

Still deciding on what to do. Rebuild the WH1C and go with the HT3B or go S300 with the HT3B. Stupid price to rebuild the WH1C makes it almost worth just getting a small S300 box turbo.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #509
Finally something to report. Engine came home the other day. Needs some paint.





Paint it gets....or it gets the hose again...



Some doo dads I have had laying around



Pic with the new exhaust manifold and the rusty HE351 housing.





Need some bigger pliers to get the snap ring off.



Missing a VC gasket...and a VC bolt. I guess that is what happens when you start a project 3 years earlier...and the project moves from the yard to the garage to the shop.



Need to hit the auto parts store tomorrow for the gasket and will have to order ONE VC bolt. I also need to get some stainless bolts for the intake and a LARGE pair of angles needle nose to get that snap ring off so I can clean up the HE351.

Jim
 

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I was having a difficult time finding a set of snap ring pliers capable of working on the he351. I ended up modding a pair regular pliers to work by drilling holes in the jaws to accept a pair of 10/32 bolts. Worked great.
 

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Any updates on this project?
I am getting ready to put a cummins in my 88 crew cab and convert it from a 2wd to a 4wd.

Great thread with lots of info. Would be good to see this thing running.
 

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Discussion Starter #512
Any updates on this project?
I am getting ready to put a cummins in my 88 crew cab and convert it from a 2wd to a 4wd.

Great thread with lots of info. Would be good to see this thing running.

Engine on the hoist. Twins are about 80 percent mocked up.. Need to attach the braces and get the feed and drain lines figured out.

Jim
 

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Great to hear that.
My donor truck just showed up in the driveway this week.
Time to reread several of the posts on this and get to work pulling some motors.
 

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I just subscribed to your thread looks like your are making good progress on the twins and your shop looks really good. Having a nice shop makes a big difference. I would love to have twins on my set up. I though I seen a post where you mentioned your were using some Air Lift 1000 front air bags and seen they are not on the truck now. I been kicking the idea of trying them out with my 8" Superlift springs to give a little front suspension adjustment and smooth out the ride but I am really thinking that 4 linking my truck with air bags would be is probably the best option.
 
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